Desk / workbench
Simple Desk
DIY blueprint for Simple Desk.
Dimensions
Width (W)
1200mm
Depth (D)
600mm
Height (H)
720mm
Cut list
Tools you'll need
- ✓
Tape Measure (at least 5m)
Used for measuring all parts.
- ✓
Pencil and Carpenter's Square
Used for marking lines and verifying right angles.
- ✓
Saw
Using home center cut service is recommended.
- ✓
Electric Driver
Impact driver increases work efficiency.
- ✓
Sandpaper
Prepare two types: #120 and #240.
- ✓
Level
Essential for checking levelness during assembly.
- ✓
Clamps (2 or more)
Used for temporary fixing during joints.
- ✓
Brush and Paint Tray
Used for oil or varnish finishing.
Materials
Top and Bottom Boards (Lauan plywood 18mm)
18×600×1200mm
2 枚
Side Boards (Lauan plywood 18mm)
18×600×684mm
2 枚
Shelf Board (Lauan plywood 18mm)
18×590×1164mm
1 枚
Back Panel (Veneer 4mm)
1200×720mm
4mm thick
1 枚
Coarse-thread Screws 38mm
38mm
60 本
Wood Glue
Quick-drying type
1 本
Build steps
- 1
Measurement and Confirmation of Installation Location
≈ 15 minMeasure the spot for installing the TV stand and confirm the Simple Desk (1200×600×720mm) fits. Also check power outlet locations, cable routing, and TV stand shape.
MeasureW 1200 mmMeasureSTEP 1 / 17Tip
- Ideal clearance is TV stand width plus 100mm on each side. For wall-mounted TV, consider reinforcing the center of the top board.
- Choose a location that allows at least 50mm space from the wall to ensure ventilation front and back.
- If the floor is carpeted, the legs may sink and cause wobbling, so measure assuming a hard board will be placed underneath.
Watch out
- If the TV stand depth (600mm) is smaller than the TV stand base, the TV may protrude dangerously. Always measure the bottom of the TV box before purchase.
- If accommodating AV amplifiers or soundbars, check whether they fit inside the shelf inner dimensions (W1164×D390×H328mm) beforehand.
- 2
Creating Cut List and Ordering from Home Center
≈ 30 minFrom a Lauan plywood 18mm 1×6-foot board, cut out two pieces each of top/bottom boards (18×400×1200), two side boards (18×400×364), one shelf board (18×390×1164). Back panel is veneer 4mm (1200×400). Since plywood is heavy and large, using the home center's cutting service is recommended.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 2 / 17Tip
- Home center cutting service costs 30-50 yen per cut. They can cut within ±1mm accuracy.
- Grain direction looks best horizontally as seen from the front. Specify this when ordering.
- Side board length 364mm includes twice the thickness of the top and bottom boards (18mm each) calculated as internal dimension. Communicate this directly.
Watch out
- If the plywood thickness is different from 18mm (e.g., 12mm, 15mm, 21mm), side board length calculation changes. Measure the actual plywood thickness before ordering.
- Cutting service only does straight cuts. Cable holes or chamfers must be made manually.
- 3
Applying Edge Banding Tape
≈ 25 minThe plywood cut edges are rough compared to finished surfaces, so apply edge tape with an iron. Treat the visible edges — front, back, left, right edges of top/bottom boards, front edges of side boards and shelf board. Iron temperature about 150°C (medium). Press down for 3-5 seconds.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 3 / 17Tip
- Edge tape sticks via resin melting from heat. Press with a cloth before it cools for better adhesion.
- Trim excess tape by carefully cutting with a cutter in 2-3 passes for a natural finish.
- No need to apply tape on back panel (veneer 4mm) edges as they're not visible.
Watch out
- Moving the iron continuously prevents proper heat penetration. Press in place for 3 seconds, then move, repeat for each spot.
- Too high temperature burns the tape causing discoloration. Test iron temperature on leftover tape first.
- 4
Sanding All Parts
≈ 30 minSand all parts starting with #180 then #240 sandpaper. Plywood surfaces are originally smooth so light stroke suffices. Chamfer corners lightly with #240 to prevent sharp edges. Also finish edges of edge banding tape gently with #240.
Sand#180SandSTEP 4 / 17Tip
- Sand along the grain. Sanding against grain raises fibers causing uneven paint.
- Chamfer corners until 'tissue paper can be stroked without snagging' as a guide.
- Using a vacuum nozzle near the sander reduces dust greatly, enabling indoor work.
Watch out
- Plywood face veneer is thin (0.2-0.5mm). Excessive sanding exposes gray substrate layer. Sand lightly only.
- Sanding generates lots of dust; perform outdoors or in ventilated areas such as balcony or garage.
- 5
Marking Shelf Position on Side Boards
≈ 20 minOn both side boards, mark shelf fixing positions 200mm above bottom edge by drawing a horizontal line (top face height of shelf board). Ensure symmetrical positioning on both boards. Use carpenter's square and pencil. Also mark pilot hole positions (center of side board thickness = 9mm from edge).
Mark a lineUse a try squareMarkSTEP 5 / 17Tip
- Stack two side boards, mark one, then transfer marks to the other with a center punch for exact alignment.
- Shelf position can be adjusted to equipment; allow 50mm above AV amplifier height as a guide.
- Pilot holes are at board centerline (9mm from edge). Misalignment causes shelf board misplacement.
Watch out
- Unequal heights on left and right side boards cause shelf to tilt. Transfer marks carefully by stacking side boards.
- Pencil lines may remain visible after painting; draw lightly as they will be erased after assembly.
- 6
Drilling Pilot Holes on Shelf Board and Side Boards
≈ 25 minDrill pilot holes (φ3.5mm) on both side edges of the shelf board, two per side (total 4). Also drill through side board pilot holes at marked positions with φ3.5mm bit, countersink front side holes φ8mm×3mm deep. Plywood rarely splits but be cautious drilling near edges.
Drill a holeφ3.5mmDrillSTEP 6 / 17Tip
- Countersinking screw heads flush gives a cleaner finish.
- Use a drill depth stopper to prevent drilling too deep; aim for 2mm less than board thickness.
- Clamp shelf board firmly before drilling edge pilot holes to prevent splitting.
Watch out
- Screws placed closer than 10mm from edge risk splitting; stick to 9mm centerline position.
- Drill bit angled causes protrusion at opposite side; drill vertically from directly above.
- 7
Temporary Assembly of Bottom and Side Boards
≈ 30 minPlace bottom board on floor, stand two side boards on it. Align side board bottom edges with bottom board edges. Apply thin wood glue, then drill φ3.5mm pilot holes from bottom board side and drive 38mm coarse-thread screws, 3 per side (total 6). Use carpenter's square to check right angles during assembly.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 7 / 17Tip
- Spread glue thinly about the thickness of a toothpick; wipe excess immediately with damp cloth.
- Clamping side boards before drilling pilot holes prevents shifting.
- Ensure floor is flat and confirm bottom board level with level before assembly.
Watch out
- Excessive glue causes overlap that prevents paint adhesion; apply thin and even glue.
- Driving screws without pilot holes risks plywood splitting. Always drill pilot holes first.
- 8
Attaching Shelf Board
≈ 20 minInsert shelf board (1164mm length) at marked position between side boards, align edges. Apply wood glue, drill φ3.5mm pilot holes from outside side boards, then drive 38mm coarse-thread screws, two per side (4 total). Check shelf board level with level.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 8 / 17Tip
- Measure shelf board length as 1164mm = top board width 1200mm - side board thickness 18mm × 2; verify before proceeding.
- Screw holes need not be countersunk inside hidden shelf area.
- If using shelf pins for adjustable shelving, drill multiple φ5mm holes now accordingly.
Watch out
- Shelf board too short causes wobbling; too long causes side boards to bow outwards. Recheck cut dimensions carefully.
- Uneven shelf board causes remotes or items to roll off; always confirm leveling with a level.
- 9
Attaching Top Board
≈ 25 minPlace top board (1200mm wide) onto box frame, aligning with side board top edges. Drill φ3.5mm pilot holes from top board and drive 38mm coarse-thread screws, three per side (6 total). Screw heads hidden in countersink holes; later fill with wooden dowels or wood putty for better finish.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 9 / 17Tip
- Top board is critical to hold the TV; increasing screw count to four per side (8 total) improves load capacity.
- Fill countersink holes with φ9mm wooden dowels for seamless joints; they become unnoticeable after painting.
- For heavy TVs (over 30kg), reinforce top board center with a 1x2 lumber brace from below.
Watch out
- Installing top board front/back reversed results in mismatched grain direction; align grain properly before screwing.
- 38mm screws are optimal for 18mm thick top board; longer screws may penetrate shelf board below.
- 10
Checking Right Angles and Diagonal Measurements
≈ 15 minCheck all box corners for right angles using a carpenter's square at four inner corners. Measure two diagonal lengths inside box with tape measure and confirm they are equal within 2mm. If misaligned, loosen some screws, use clamps to adjust, then retighten.
InspectNo wobble ✓InspectSTEP 10 / 17Tip
- If diagonal difference is over 5mm, distortion is significant and back panel won't fit properly; always correct.
- Clamping frame diagonally helps achieve right angles easily.
- Enlarging pilot holes to φ4mm allows some play making adjustment easier.
Watch out
- Ignoring distortion leads to large gaps when fitting back panel.
- Use reliable carpenter's square made of aluminum or steel; plastic ones have significant errors.
- 11
Attaching Back Panel
≈ 15 minPlace 4mm veneer back panel on rear face, fix edges and center with a staple gun or thin screws (φ3×20mm). Staple spacing every 30mm; screw spacing every 100mm. The back panel fixes right angles, almost eliminating box distortion.
Build the frameCheck for squareAssembleSTEP 11 / 17Tip
- Before attaching back panel, if frame is skewed, clamp and rectify during fastening.
- Staple gun is faster; shoots thin pin-like staples resembling large staples.
- Place back panel grain horizontally for a neat TV stand appearance.
Watch out
- Do not attach back panel reversed; front and back differ in color and grain.
- Staples may protrude from back side if shot missed; check by running hand over the rear after fastening.
- 12
Making Cable Routing Hole (if needed)
≈ 15 minDrill cable hole φ50mm on back panel for TV power, HDMI, antenna cables, ideally behind TV connection terminals. If hole saw unavailable, drill multiple holes and connect them with a fretsaw.
Drill a holeφ50mmDrillSTEP 12 / 17Tip
- Apply edge tape on hole edges to protect fingers and cable sheaths.
- Check TV connector layout to position hole so cables pass straight.
- Align hole height with power outlet for neater appearance.
Watch out
- Misplaced hole causes cables to be awkwardly routed, ruining appearance; temporarily place TV and mark position.
- If hole saw slips, plywood surface may peel; keep pilot drill centered firmly.
- 13
Surface Preparation Before Painting
≈ 15 minLightly sand entire unit with #240 sandpaper before painting. Remove all dust with damp and dry cloths. Remove excess wood glue and burrs around screw holes. For indoor use, finishes such as Watco Oil, Briwax, or water-based paints are convenient.
Sand#240SandSTEP 13 / 17Tip
- Always test paint on scrap for color and absorption; plywood absorbs differently than solid wood.
- Water-based paints rinse brushes with water, beginner-friendly.
- Watco Oil maintains natural wood texture; apply by rubbing with cloth.
Watch out
- Glue spots repel paint; sand lightly with #240 before painting.
- Dust left on surface causes rough finish; thorough cleaning before painting is essential.
- 14
First Coat of Paint
≈ 30 minApply paint or finish with brush or cloth evenly over entire surface. Paint in order: top board → side boards → bottom board → back panel, from larger to smaller surfaces. Brush stroke along wood grain and in one direction to reduce brush marks. Keep coat thin and even. Let dry naturally for over 2 hours.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 14 / 17Tip
- Use small amounts of paint at a time. Do not leave paint can open to avoid film formation.
- If brush marks are troublesome, use a flat roller brush for uniform application.
- During drying, place in low dust environment; avoid direct airflow such as fans.
Watch out
- Thick application causes uneven drying and peeling later; thin two coats is essential.
- Direct heat blowing dries surface only, leaving underneath semi-dry; natural drying is best.
- 15
Light Sanding and Second Coat
≈ 25 minAfter first coat is fully dry, lightly sand surface with #320 sandpaper (scuff sanding) to remove roughness. Remove dust and apply second coat thinner than first for even finish. Let dry for over 24 hours.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 15 / 17Tip
- Scuff sanding only removes surface roughness, not stripping paint film.
- Second coat should be thin to avoid dripping.
- Do not touch during drying to avoid fingerprints or dust; observe 24 hour drying time.
Watch out
- Over-sanding removes first paint layer; keep sanding light with #320.
- Thick second coat prolongs drying delaying next day work.
- 16
Attaching Leg Pads and Anti-Tip Hardware
≈ 20 minAttach felt pads to the bottom of legs to prevent floor scratches and unevenness. For earthquake safety, install anti-tip straps or brackets on upper back side, fixing the TV stand to wall studs with screws, which is the safest method against large earthquakes.
Fix to the wallAnchor to studsInstallSTEP 16 / 17Tip
- Felt pads cost about 50 yen at home centers; 10mm thick pads absorb floor irregularities well.
- Anti-tip straps are available at 100 yen shops, but dedicated TV stand straps costing around 1000 yen provide better safety.
- When anchoring to wall, align screws with stud locations; drywall alone offers insufficient hold.
Watch out
- Skipping felt pads causes flooring scratches and damage.
- Omitting anti-tip measures risks TV stand tipping over and TV damage during major quakes.
- 17
Final Check and Installation
≈ 20 minMove completed TV stand to installation spot and check level front-to-back and side-to-side with level. If wobbling, adjust felt pad thickness. Place TV, route cables, power on to check operation. Place only light items first day; wait one week for paint to fully cure.
Done!Done — nice work!DoneSTEP 17 / 17Tip
- Place TV centered on top board to distribute weight evenly; placing at edges causes distortion.
- Route cables through back panel hole and bundle with cable ties for neatness.
- If placing AV amplifier or Blu-ray recorder on shelf, leave 50mm clearance front and back for ventilation.
Watch out
- Paint takes one week to fully cure; placing remote controls or equipment directly on surface initially causes stickiness.
- If floor is sloped at home, leveling may not be perfect; adjust felt pad thickness on each side accordingly.
Warnings
- ⚠️Always drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.
Custom design
Changing the dimensions roughly scales the cut list. Get the precise calculation in the app.
Enter dimensions (mm)
Quick estimateWidth W
Depth D
Height H
Base size 1200×600×720 mm
Cut list (preview)
Total board length ≈ 5.7 m · Available at: カインズ / コメリ / コーナン / DCM
Accurate materials, prices, and cuts in the app
Per-retailer pricing, purchase links, and optimal cut layouts are auto-calculated in the app.
Examples7 examples
View all →Actual cost
¥6,547
Build time
3 h 19 min
Home center
DCM
市販品ではしっくりこなかったのでシンプルデスクを自分で組みました。マンション住まいなので搬入できる寸法を最優先。脚にはアジャスターを付けて、床の不陸を吸収できるようにしてます。家族にも好評で作って良かった。
Actual cost
¥9,690
Build time
3 h 5 min
Home center
コーナン
今回はシンプルデスクにトライ。天板の奥行きを 600mm 取って、モニター + ノート PC + サブ資料が並ぶ広さに。今回はマキタの新しい充電インパクトを実戦投入。トルクが段違いでした。この作品で DIY のモチベがまた上がりました。
Actual cost
¥7,003
Build time
2 h 41 min
Home center
カインズ
シンプルデスクを自作しました。天板の奥行きを 600mm 取って、モニター + ノート PC + サブ資料が並ぶ広さに。この作品で DIY のモチベがまた上がりました。
Actual cost
¥8,427
Build time
3 h 18 min
Home center
コーナン
今回はシンプルデスクにトライ。ケーブルは天板裏に配線モールで隠して、見た目スッキリ。ホームセンター店員さんに相談しながら進めたのが良かった。
Actual cost
¥7,528
Build time
3 h 18 min
Home center
DCM
気になっていたシンプルデスクにようやく挑戦。ケーブルは天板裏に配線モールで隠して、見た目スッキリ。家族にも好評で作って良かった。
Actual cost
¥6,314
Build time
2 h 1 min
Home center
コメリ
今回はシンプルデスクにトライ。賃貸でも置けるサイズで設計してます。天板の奥行きを 600mm 取って、モニター + ノート PC + サブ資料が並ぶ広さに。想定以上に綺麗に仕上がって、自分でもびっくり。
Ratings
Comments4
- Naoko木工3年2026/04/26

天板の反り対策に吸い付き桟入れたいですが、SPFなら吸い付きアリ加工は不要かも
- Akihikodiy2026/04/26

天板の角を面取りすると一気に印象が柔らかくなりますよ
- reika_子育てdiy2026/04/26

オイル仕上げなら塗布前に240→320番で研磨するとサラサラの肌になります
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