L-Shaped Desk

Dimensions

Cut list

Tools you'll need

• ✓

  Tape measure (5m or longer)

  Used for measuring all parts

• ✓

  Pencil and carpenter's square

  Used for marking lines and right angle confirmation

• ✓

  Saw

  Using a home center cutting service is recommended

• ✓

  Electric screwdriver

  Impact driver improves work efficiency

• ✓

  Sandpaper

  Prepare two types: #120 and #240

• ✓

  Level

  Essential for confirming horizontal alignment during assembly

• ✓

  Clamps (2 or more)

  Used for temporary fixing during jointing

• ✓

  Brush and paint tray

  Used for oil or varnish finishing

Materials

Build steps

1. 1

   Measurement and Location Check

   ≈ 15 min

   Measure the location where the TV stand will be installed and confirm that the L-shaped desk (1400×700×720mm) fits. Check the positions of power outlets, wiring paths, and the shape of the TV stand.

   Measure

   W 1400 mm

   MeasureSTEP 1 / 17

   Tip

   • Ideal clearance is TV stand width plus 100mm on both sides. Consider reinforcing the center of the top board if wall-mounted.
   • Choose a location allowing at least 50mm gap from the wall to ensure front-to-back ventilation.
   • If the floor has carpet, measure assuming hard boards will be laid to prevent the legs from sinking and wobbling.

   Watch out

   • If the TV stand depth of 700mm is too small for the TV stand's size, the front might protrude dangerously. Measure the bottom surface of the TV box before purchase.
   • If storing AV amplifiers or sound bars, pre-check whether the equipment fits inside the shelf internal dimensions (W1164×D390×H328mm).
2. 2

   Cut List Creation and Home Center Order

   ≈ 30 min

   Cut from 18mm Lauan plywood 1×6尺 board: two pieces each of top and bottom boards (18×400×1200), two side boards (18×400×364), and one shelf board (18×390×1164). The back panel is veneer 4mm (1200×400)×1. Plywood is heavy and large, so using the home center cutting service is recommended.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 2 / 17

   Tip

   • Home center cutting service costs 30-50 yen per cut. They can cut with ±1mm accuracy.
   • The wood grain direction looks best running horizontally from the front; specify this when ordering.
   • The 364mm length of the side boards includes the thickness of the top and bottom boards (18mm×2) as internal dimension calculation; convey this as is.

   Watch out

   • If the plywood thickness is not 18mm (12mm/15mm/21mm etc.), the side board length calculation changes. Confirm the actual thickness before ordering.
   • Cutting service only supports straight cuts. Drilling wire holes or chamfering must be done by yourself.
3. 3

   Applying Edge Banding Tape

   ≈ 25 min

   Apply edge banding tape to the plywood cut edges, which are rough compared to the finished surfaces, by ironing. Treat visible edge sides: front, back, left, and right edges of the top and bottom boards; front edges of the side boards; and front edges of the shelf board. Iron at medium heat (approximately 150°C), pressing for 3-5 seconds.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 3 / 17

   Tip

   • The tape's resin melts with heat and bonds; pressing with cloth before it cools improves adhesion.
   • Trim excess tape by gently beveling with a cutter in 2-3 passes, not one stroke, for a natural finish.
   • Since the back panel (4mm veneer) won't be visible, tape is not necessary there.

   Watch out

   • Moving the iron continuously prevents heat penetration. Hold still for 3 seconds per spot before moving.
   • Iron overheated will scorch the tape causing discoloration. Test temperature on leftover tape first.
4. 4

   Sanding All Parts

   ≈ 30 min

   Sand all parts using #180 then #240 sandpapers sequentially. Lightweightly stroke the surface of the plywood, which is already smooth. Chamfer the corners with #240 sandpaper gently so hands won't get scratched. Finish the edges of the edge banding tape gently with #240 as well.

   Sand

   #180

   SandSTEP 4 / 17

   Tip

   • Sand along the wood grain; sanding against the grain raises fibers and causes painting blotches.
   • Chamfer edges until you no longer feel roughness even when stroking tissue paper.
   • Using a sanding tool near a vacuum nozzle reduces dust by half, enabling indoor sanding.

   Watch out

   • Plywood veneer is thin (0.2-0.5mm). Sanding too hard exposes the grey substrate.
   • Sanding produces a lot of dust. Do this in well-ventilated areas like balconies or garages.
5. 5

   Marking Shelf Board Position on Side Boards

   ≈ 20 min

   Mark the shelf board fixing position on the two side boards. Draw a horizontal line 200mm from the bottom edge of each side board (this is the shelf board's top surface level). Ensure symmetrical placement on both side boards by marking the same measurement. Use a carpenter's square and pencil to mark lines and also mark pilot hole positions at the center of the shelf board thickness (9mm line).

   Mark a line

   Use a try square

   MarkSTEP 5 / 17

   Tip

   • Stack side boards together, mark one, then transfer marks to the other with a center punch for perfect alignment.
   • Shelf position can be adjusted according to equipment height, generally AV amplifier height plus 50mm.
   • Pilot holes should be at the center thickness of the side board (18mm/2 = 9mm). Off-center holes cause shelf misalignment.

   Watch out

   • If side boards are not aligned in height, the shelf will be tilted. Don't forget to transfer marks by stacking the boards.
   • Pencil marks might remain visible after finishing. Draw lines lightly intending to erase after assembly.
6. 6

   Drilling Pilot Holes in Shelf Board and Side Boards

   ≈ 25 min

   Drill pilot holes (Ø3.5mm) on the shelf board ends for side board fixing: two holes each side, four total. Also drill through pilot holes (Ø3.5mm) at the marked points on the side boards with countersinks (Ø8mm × 3mm deep) on the front side. Though plywood rarely splits, pilot holes near edges require care.

   Drill a hole

   下穴 φ3.5mm

   DrillSTEP 6 / 17

   Tip

   • Countersinking the screw heads flush creates a neat finish.
   • Use a drill stopper to manage depth and avoid breakthrough; aim for board thickness minus 2mm.
   • Clamp the shelf board before drilling to prevent splitting near the edge.

   Watch out

   • Screw placement within 10mm of the plywood edge risks splitting; keep to the center line at 9mm from edge.
   • Drilling at an angle can cause the drill bit to poke out the other side. Drill vertically from above.
7. 7

   Temporary Assembly of Bottom Board and Side Boards

   ≈ 30 min

   Place the bottom board on the floor and stand the two side boards on top. Align side boards bottoms with the edges of the bottom board. Apply a thin layer of woodworking glue, then drill pilot holes (Ø3.5mm) from the bottom board side and drive three coarse-thread screws 38mm per side (six total). Confirm right angle between side and bottom boards with a carpenter's square as you proceed.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 7 / 17

   Tip

   • Spread glue evenly thinly, about the thickness of a toothpick. Wipe off any excess glued with a wet cloth immediately.
   • Use clamps to temporarily fix side boards before drilling to prevent movement.
   • Ensure floor is flat. Use a level to confirm bottom board horizontal before assembly.

   Watch out

   • Applying too much glue causes spillover and may prevent finish adhesion. Apply thin and evenly.
   • Driving screws without pilot holes causes plywood to split. Always drill pilot holes first.
8. 8

   Attaching the Shelf Board

   ≈ 20 min

   Insert the shelf board (1164mm length) at the marked position. Align side and shelf board end faces, apply glue, drill pilot holes (Ø3.5mm) from the outside of side boards, and drive two coarse-thread screws 38mm each side (four total). Check shelf board horizontal with a level.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 8 / 17

   Tip

   • Confirm the 1164mm shelf board length equals top board width 1400mm minus side board thickness 18mm×2 before installation.
   • The shelf is hidden inside; countersinking pilot holes is unnecessary.
   • If using shelf pins to make adjustable shelves, drill multiple holes (Ø5mm) at this stage accordingly.

   Watch out

   • If the shelf board is too short, it will wobble; if too long, side boards may bow outward. Recheck cutting dimensions.
   • Uneven shelf board causes small objects or remotes to roll off. Always check horizontal with a level.
9. 9

   Attaching the Top Board

   ≈ 25 min

   Place the top board (1200mm width) on top of the box frame aligned with side boards' top edges. Drill pilot holes (Ø3.5mm) from the top board side and drive coarse-thread screws 38mm: three per side (six total). Countersink screw heads and cover afterward with wooden dowels or wood filler for a cleaner finish.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 9 / 17

   Tip

   • The top board carries the TV; increase screw count to four per side (eight total) for better load capacity.
   • Filling countersinks with Ø9mm wooden dowels hides seams and looks better after painting.
   • If the TV is heavy (over 30kg), reinforce the center of the top board with a 1×2 lumber support from underneath.

   Watch out

   • Installing the top board backwards misaligns wood grain direction; align grain before screwing.
   • 38mm screws suit 18mm thick top boards; longer screws risk puncturing through to the shelf below.
10. 10

    Checking Right Angles and Diagonal Measurements

    ≈ 15 min

    Check the entire box frame for right angles by placing a carpenter's square at all four internal corners to confirm 90°. Measure internal diagonal lengths using a tape measure and ensure both diagonals are equal within 2mm. If misaligned, loosen screws slightly, use clamps to rectify the shape, then retighten screws.

    Inspect

    No wobble ✓

    InspectSTEP 10 / 17

    Tip

    • A diagonal difference exceeding 5mm indicates significant distortion, causing the back panel not to fit properly; always correct.
    • Clamp diagonally across the box frame to easily achieve right angles.
    • Enlarging pilot holes to Ø4mm adds play, easing alignment adjustment.

    Watch out

    • Ignoring distortion at this stage causes large gaps at the four corners when attaching the back panel.
    • Use a reliable precision carpenter's square (aluminum or steel); plastic squares have large errors.
11. 11

    Attaching the Back Panel

    ≈ 15 min

    Fix the 4mm veneer back panel (1400×720mm) against the rear using a staple gun or fine screws (Ø3×20mm) all around edges and center. Space staples about 30mm apart or screws about 100mm apart. The back panel secures right angles making most frame distortion vanish at this step.

    Build the frame

    Check for square

    AssembleSTEP 11 / 17

    Tip

    • If distortion is found during diagonal checks, clamp frame to correct shape while fixing the back panel.
    • Staple guns work faster; they shoot thin, narrow staples like a large stapler.
    • Orient the wood grain of the back panel horizontally for a neat overall TV stand appearance.

    Watch out

    • Do not install the back panel upside down; front and back have different colors and grain direction.
    • Check behind to ensure staples do not protrude; run your hand over the back side after installation to confirm.
12. 12

    Wiring Hole Processing (If Necessary)

    ≈ 15 min

    Make wiring holes in the back panel using a hole saw (Ø50mm) for power cords, HDMI cables, and antenna wires. Position ideally just behind the TV’s connection terminals. If no hole saw is available, drill multiple holes and connect them using a coping saw.

    Drill a hole

    下穴 φ3.5mm

    DrillSTEP 12 / 17

    Tip

    • Apply edge banding tape to hole edges to prevent injury and protect cable sheaths.
    • Confirm TV terminal layout before positioning holes for straight cable routing.
    • Align holes with outlet height for clean appearance.

    Watch out

    • Incorrect hole positioning prevents cables from neatly coming from behind the TV. Mark with a temporary TV placement.
    • Hole saw skidding peels the plywood surface; keep the center drill bit firmly engaged.
13. 13

    Surface Preparation for Painting

    ≈ 15 min

    Before painting, lightly sand the whole surface with #240 sandpaper and thoroughly remove dust with a wet cloth followed by a dry cloth. Remove excess dried glue and burrs around screw holes. Use finishes like Watco Oil, Briwax, or water-based paint suitable for indoor use.

    Sand

    #240

    SandSTEP 13 / 17

    Tip

    • Always test paint on scrap to check finish and absorption; plywood absorbs differently from wood.
    • Water-based paints are easy to clean with water and good for beginners.
    • Apply Watco Oil by rubbing it in with a cloth for a natural wood feel.

    Watch out

    • Glue spots repel paint; sand them lightly with #240 before painting.
    • Dust left on surface causes rough texture; clean thoroughly before painting.
14. 14

    First Coat of Paint

    ≈ 30 min

    Use a brush or rag to apply paint evenly over all surfaces in order: top board, side boards, bottom board, back panel. Brush along wood grain in one direction to minimize brush marks. Apply thin, uniform coats without building thick film. Allow natural drying for over 2 hours.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 14 / 17

    Tip

    • Use small portions of paint to avoid drying out in the can.
    • If brush marks bother you, use a foam roller for smooth finish over flat surfaces.
    • Place painted items in a dust-free area, avoiding direct fan airflow during drying.

    Watch out

    • Thick paint causes drying unevenness that leads to peeling later; two thin coats are essential.
    • Drying near heater fans causes surface skin but incomplete internal cure; wait for natural drying.
15. 15

    Sanding Between Coats and Second Coat of Paint

    ≈ 25 min

    Once the first coat is fully dry, lightly sand the surface with #320 sandpaper to remove roughness (called 'scuff sanding'). Remove dust and apply the second coat, slightly thinner than the first, for a more uniform finish. Dry for at least 24 hours.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 15 / 17

    Tip

    • Scuff sanding lightly removes surface roughness without stripping paint.
    • Apply the second coat thinly to avoid runs.
    • Do not touch the surface during drying to prevent fingerprints or dust; strictly keep 24-hour drying time.

    Watch out

    • Over-sanding removes first coat film; keep to light #320 sanding.
    • Thick second coats extend drying, delaying further work until next day.
16. 16

    Attaching Leg Pads and Anti-Tip Hardware

    ≈ 20 min

    Attach felt pads to the bottom of each leg to prevent floor scratches and wobbling. For earthquake safety, install anti-tip straps or brackets at the top rear to fix the TV stand securely to the wall with screws. This is the safest way to prevent tipping during major earthquakes.

    Fix to the wall

    Anchor to studs

    InstallSTEP 16 / 17

    Tip

    • Felt pads cost about 50 yen at home centers; 10mm thickness cushions floor unevenness.
    • Anti-tip straps are available at 100 yen shops; dedicated TV stand straps costing about 1000 yen provide better security.
    • Fix to wall studs (stud locations) since drywall alone cannot hold screws.

    Watch out

    • Omitting felt pads will cause floor scratches on hardwood floors.
    • Skipping anti-tip fittings risks the TV stand toppling during a large earthquake and damaging the TV.
17. 17

    Final Checks and Installation

    ≈ 20 min

    Move the completed TV stand to its installation location and check front-to-back and side-to-side level with a level. Adjust felt pads if any wobble occurs. Place the TV on the stand, route cables, and test power and device operation. For the first day, place only light items and observe until paint fully cures after one week.

    Done!

    Done — nice work!

    DoneSTEP 17 / 17

    Tip

    • Place the TV centered so weight is evenly distributed on the top board; avoid placing it at edges causing distortion.
    • Route wiring through the back panel hole and organize with cable ties for a clean look.
    • If placing AV amplifiers or BD recorders on the shelf, leave at least 50mm front and rear clearance for ventilation.

    Watch out

    • Paint takes one week to fully cure; placing remote controls or devices directly on paint immediately causes stickiness.
    • Uneven floor surfaces prevent leveling; adjust felt pad thickness differently on each side to compensate.

Warnings

• ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.

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