Garage Workbench

Dimensions

Cut list

Tools you'll need

• ✓

  Measuring tape (5m or longer)

  Used for measuring each lumber piece

• ✓

  Pencil & carpenter's square

  For marking lines and checking right angles

• ✓

  Handsaw

  Home center cutting service recommended

• ✓

  Electric screwdriver

  Impact driver improves work efficiency

• ✓

  Sandpaper

  Prepare two types: #120 and #240

• ✓

  Level

  Essential for checking levelness during assembly

• ✓

  Clamps (2 or more)

  Used for temporary fixing during joining

• ✓

  Brush & paint tray

  Used for oil or varnish finishing

Materials

Build steps

1. 1

   Measure and Verify Installation Location

   ≈ 15 min

   Measure the place where the TV stand will be installed and verify that the garage workbench (1800×700×850mm) fits. Also check outlet positions, wiring routes, and the shape of the TV stand base.

   Measure

   W 1800 mm

   MeasureSTEP 1 / 17

   Tip

   • Ideal clearance is TV stand width plus an extra 100mm on each side. If wall mounted, consider reinforcing center of top board.
   • Choose a location at least 50mm away from wall to ensure front and back ventilation.
   • If the floor is carpeted, measure assuming a rigid board will be placed below legs to prevent wobbling.

   Watch out

   • If TV stand depth (700mm) is smaller than TV stand base, it may protrude and be hazardous; always measure TV box bottom surface before purchase.
   • If storing AV amplifier or soundbar, confirm if they fit inside shelf interior dimensions (W1164×D390×H328mm).
2. 2

   Create Cut List and Order from Home Center

   ≈ 30 min

   Cut from 18mm Lauan plywood 1×6 board: two top and bottom boards (18×400×1200mm), two side boards (18×400×364mm), one shelf board (18×390×1164mm). Back panel is 4mm veneer (1200×400mm). Heavy large sheets, so utilizing home center cutting service is recommended.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 2 / 17

   Tip

   • Home center cutting service costs about 30-50 yen per cut with ±1mm accuracy.
   • The wood grain orientation viewed from front should be horizontal for aesthetics; specify during ordering.
   • Side board length of 364mm includes thickness of two 18mm top and bottom boards accounted in internal dimension; provide as is.

   Watch out

   • If plywood thickness is not 18mm (e.g., 12mm/15mm/21mm), side board length calculations change; measure actual thickness before ordering.
   • Cutting service only does straight cuts; holes or chamfers need to be done by yourself.
3. 3

   Apply Edge Banding Tape

   ≈ 25 min

   Since plywood cut edges are rough compared to finished surfaces, apply edge banding tape using an iron. Treat visible edges — front, back, left and right ends of top and bottom boards; front edges of side boards and shelf board. Iron temperature should be medium (~150°C), pressing for 3-5 seconds.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 3 / 17

   Tip

   • Edge band tape adheres by melting resin with heat; pressing with cloth before cooling improves adhesion.
   • Trim excess tape with a cutter by chamfering the edge gradually, cutting in 2-3 passes for natural finish.
   • Back panel edges (4mm veneer) are not visible and don’t need tape.

   Watch out

   • Moving the iron continuously prevents heat penetration; press and hold 3 seconds per spot before moving.
   • If temperature is too high tape scorches and color changes; test temperature on scrap tape first.
4. 4

   Sand All Parts

   ≈ 30 min

   Sand all parts using #180 followed by #240 sandpaper. Plywood surfaces are originally smooth, so light sanding is sufficient. Lightly chamfer edges with #240 so hands don’t get scratched. Also gently finish edges of edge band tape with #240.

   Sand

   #180

   SandSTEP 4 / 17

   Tip

   • Sand along the wood grain; sanding against the grain raises fibers causing paint unevenness.
   • Chamfer edges until 'a tissue paper glides over them without snags' as a guide.
   • Using the sander close to a vacuum nozzle reduces dust by half making indoor work tolerable.

   Watch out

   • Plywood veneer layer is thin (0.2–0.5mm); excessive sanding reveals the gray base layer beneath; sand lightly.
   • Sanding produces a large amount of dust; do the work in ventilated places like balcony or garage.
5. 5

   Mark Shelf Board Positions on Side Boards

   ≈ 20 min

   Mark mounting positions for shelf board on the two side boards. Draw a horizontal line 200mm up from the bottom edge of each side board (this indicates the shelf board's top surface). Ensure symmetrical placement by taking same measurements on both side boards. Use carpenter's square and pencil to draw lines and mark pilot hole positions (centered at 9mm, the thickness center of shelf board).

   Mark a line

   Use a try square

   MarkSTEP 5 / 17

   Tip

   • Stack two side boards and mark one, then transfer marks to other using a center punch for exact matching.
   • Shelf board height can be adjusted according to equipment height; add 50mm above AV amplifier height as a guide.
   • Pilot holes should be at 9mm from edge (center of 18mm thickness); misalignment causes shelf board shift.

   Watch out

   • Misaligned height on side boards causes tilted shelf; never skip marking by stacking and transferring.
   • Pencil markings may remain visible after painting; draw lightly intending to erase after assembly.
6. 6

   Drill Pilot Holes in Shelf Board and Side Boards

   ≈ 25 min

   Drill φ3.5mm pilot holes on both ends of the shelf board's end grain for side board attachment, two on each side (total four). Also drill φ3.5mm holes through side boards at marked positions, then countersink to φ8mm diameter and 3mm depth on the front surface. Though plywood resists splitting, holes near edges must be done carefully.

   Drill a hole

   φ3.5mm

   DrillSTEP 6 / 17

   Tip

   • Countersinking allows screw heads to sit flush, improving finish appearance.
   • Use a drill stopper to control depth and avoid drilling through accidentally; set to plate thickness minus 2mm approximately.
   • Clamp shelf board firmly before drilling end grain pilot holes to prevent splitting.

   Watch out

   • Screwing within 10mm of edge risks splitting; pilot hole center line at 9mm must be strictly followed.
   • Drill perpendicular to avoid screws poking through opposite side.
7. 7

   Temporary Assembly of Bottom Board and Side Boards

   ≈ 30 min

   Place bottom board on the floor, then stand two side boards on top aligning their bottom edges at the bottom board edge. Apply a thin layer of wood glue, then drill φ3.5mm pilot holes from bottom board side and drive three 38mm coarse-thread screws per side (total six). Use carpenter's square to confirm right angles between side boards and bottom board during process.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 7 / 17

   Tip

   • Spread glue thinly like 'the thickness of one toothpick'; wipe excess glue immediately with a damp cloth.
   • Clamping side boards before drilling pilot holes prevents misalignment.
   • Ensure floor is level and check bottom board with a level prior to assembly.

   Watch out

   • Excessive glue oozing prevents paint adhesion; thin and even glue application is essential.
   • Skipping pilot holes may cause plywood to split.
8. 8

   Attach Shelf Board

   ≈ 20 min

   Fit shelf board (1164mm length) at marked position. Align ends of shelf board with side boards' edges, apply glue, drill φ3.5mm pilot holes from side board outside and fasten with two 38mm coarse-thread screws per side (total four). Check shelf board level with a level.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 8 / 17

   Tip

   • Shelf board length 1164mm equals top board width (1800mm) minus side board thickness 18mm times 2; verify measurements before proceeding.
   • Shelf board is inside and hidden, so countersinking screw holes is unnecessary.
   • If using adjustable shelf pins for movable shelves, drill multiple φ5mm holes during this step.

   Watch out

   • Shelf board too short causes looseness; too long causes side boards to bow out. Recheck cutting dimensions carefully.
   • An unleveled shelf board causes TV remotes or small items to roll off; always check levelness.
9. 9

   Attach Top Board

   ≈ 25 min

   Place top board (1200mm width) on top of box frame aligned to side boards' top edges. Drill φ3.5mm pilot holes from top board and fasten with three 38mm coarse-thread screws per side (total six). Screw heads sit in countersunk holes; fill and hide screw holes later with wooden dowels or wood putty for a finer finish.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 9 / 17

   Tip

   • Top board is the most important component holding the TV; adding screws (four per side, total eight) improves load capacity.
   • Fill countersink holes with φ9mm wooden dowels to hide joints; becomes invisible after painting.
   • If TV weight exceeds 30kg, add a reinforcing 1x2 lumber piece underneath top board center.

   Watch out

   • Installing top board reversed causes mismatched wood grain directions; align grain before securing.
   • 38mm screws suit 18mm thick top board; longer screws might penetrate through shelf boards beneath.
10. 10

    Check Right Angles and Diagonal Lengths

    ≈ 15 min

    Confirm right angles of entire box by placing carpenter’s square on all four inside corners to check for 90 degrees. Measure internal diagonal lengths with measuring tape, ensuring difference between diagonals is within 2mm. If misaligned, loosen loose screws, clamp to correct shape, then retighten.

    Inspect

    No wobble ✓

    InspectSTEP 10 / 17

    Tip

    • Diagonal difference over 5mm indicates severe distortion; fix before fitting back panel.
    • Use clamps to pull the box diagonally, making right angles easier to achieve.
    • Enlarging pilot holes to φ4mm creates play making adjustment easier.

    Watch out

    • Ignoring distortions at this stage results in big gaps when installing back panel.
    • Use reliable high-precision carpenter’s squares made of aluminum or steel; plastic ones have high errors.
11. 11

    Attach Back Panel

    ≈ 15 min

    Position 4mm veneer back panel (1800×850mm) on the rear side and secure with staples or thin screws (φ3×20mm) along all edges and center. Staple spacing approximately 30mm, screw spacing 100mm. Back panel stabilizes right angles and eliminates most distortion in this step.

    Build the frame

    Check for square

    AssembleSTEP 11 / 17

    Tip

    • If distorted, straighten box with clamps applying while securing back panel.
    • Stapler offers faster work; uses thin staple needles similar to thick staples.
    • Position wood grain of back panel horizontally for a tidy overall look.

    Watch out

    • Be careful not to install back panel backwards; color and grain differ front to back.
    • Staples may miss and protrude inside; after installation, check by hand along back panel surface.
12. 12

    Cut Wiring Hole (If Needed)

    ≈ 15 min

    Drill a wiring hole in back panel using a 50mm hole saw to pass TV power cables, HDMI cables, and antenna wires. Ideal hole position is directly behind TV connection ports. If a hole saw is unavailable, make multiple drill holes and then cut through with a coping saw.

    Drill a hole

    下穴 φ3.5mm

    DrillSTEP 12 / 17

    Tip

    • Apply edge banding tape on hole edges to avoid cuts and protect cable coatings.
    • Confirm TV rear port layout to align hole precisely for straight cable routing.
    • Align hole height with electrical outlet for a tidy appearance.

    Watch out

    • Incorrect hole position causes unsightly cable routing if cables cannot exit directly behind TV.
    • If hole saw slips, plywood surface may delaminate; keep center drill steady and effective.
13. 13

    Prepare Surface for Painting

    ≈ 15 min

    Before painting, lightly sand entire surface with #240 sandpaper removing any wood glue squeeze-outs and burrs around screw holes. Fully remove dust wiping with damp cloth, then dry cloth. Suitable finishes include Watco Oil, Briwax, or water-based paints for indoor use.

    Sand

    #240

    SandSTEP 13 / 17

    Tip

    • Always test paint on scrap wood; plywood absorbs differently than solid wood affecting tone.
    • Water-based paints are easy to clean up with water, suitable for beginners.
    • Watco Oil preserves natural wood texture; apply by rubbing with cloth.

    Watch out

    • Glue spots repel paint; gently sand with #240 before painting.
    • Leaving dust causes rough surface; thorough cleaning before painting is essential.
14. 14

    First Coat of Paint

    ≈ 30 min

    Apply paint or finish over entire surface with brush or rag. Apply in order: top board → side boards → bottom board → back panel. Brush along the grain in one direction to avoid brush marks. Apply thin and even coats without building thick layers. Let dry naturally for at least two hours.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 14 / 17

    Tip

    • Use paint in small portions; do not leave can open as it forms skin and becomes unusable.
    • If brush marks bother you, switch to foam roller brush for even application on flat surfaces.
    • Dry in low dust environment, avoid fan or heater direct airflow.

    Watch out

    • Thick coats cause uneven drying and peeling later; thin two coats keeps finish durable.
    • Direct heat causes surface to dry but inside remains wet; wait for natural drying.
15. 15

    Light Sanding and Second Coat

    ≈ 25 min

    After first coat is fully dry, lightly sand surface with #320 sandpaper to remove roughness. Remove dust then apply second coat thinner than first for uniform finish. Allow drying 24 hours or more.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 15 / 17

    Tip

    • Light sanding removes surface roughness without removing paint film.
    • Thin second coat prevents drips and uneven surface.
    • Do not touch surface before drying to avoid fingerprints or dust.

    Watch out

    • Applying too much pressure sanding removes paint layer; light pass with #320 is key.
    • Thick second coats extend drying time preventing next day work.
16. 16

    Apply Felt Pads and Anti-Tip Hardware

    ≈ 20 min

    Attach felt pads on leg bottoms to prevent floor scratches and wobbling. For earthquake safety, install anti-tip straps or brackets at top back to secure cabinet to wall with screws. Fixing to wall studs ensures greatest safety during large quakes.

    Fix to the wall

    Anchor to studs

    InstallSTEP 16 / 17

    Tip

    • Felt pads cost about 50 yen at home centers; 10mm thick pads absorb floor unevenness effectively.
    • Anti-tip straps available even at 100 yen shops; purpose-built TV stand straps costing ~1000 yen offer enhanced safety.
    • When fixing to wall, install into studs; drywall-only fixation is ineffective.

    Watch out

    • Omitting felt pads causes scratches on hardwood floors.
    • Skipping anti-tip fixes risks the TV stand falling and breaking the TV during strong earthquakes.
17. 17

    Final Checks and Installation

    ≈ 20 min

    Move finished TV stand to installation spot and check levelness front-to-back and side-to-side with level. Adjust wobbling with felt pads if needed. Place the TV, route cables through the back panel hole, and plug in power to test operation. On first day put only lightweight objects on top; wait one week for paint to fully cure before normal use.

    Done!

    Done — nice work!

    DoneSTEP 17 / 17

    Tip

    • Center TV weight evenly on top board; avoid putting weight near edges to prevent warping.
    • Route cables neatly through back panel hole and bundle with cable ties for clean appearance.
    • When placing AV amplifier or Blu-ray player on shelf, leave 50mm clearance front and back for ventilation.

    Watch out

    • Full paint curing takes one week; placing remotes or equipment directly can cause tackiness if done earlier.
    • Uneven floors cause level issues; adjust felt pad thicknesses on different legs accordingly.

Warnings

• ⚠️Always drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.

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