Desk / workbench
Standing Desk
DIY blueprint for Standing Desk.
Dimensions
Width (W)
1200mm
Depth (D)
600mm
Height (H)
1000mm
Cut list
Tools you'll need
- ✓
Measuring tape (at least 5m)
Used for measuring each component.
- ✓
Pencil and carpenter's square
For marking lines and checking right angles.
- ✓
Saw
Recommend using the cut service at hardware stores.
- ✓
Electric driver
Impact driver improves work efficiency.
- ✓
Sandpaper
Prepare two types: #120 and #240.
- ✓
Level
Essential for checking level during assembly.
- ✓
Clamps (two or more)
Used for temporary fixing during joining.
- ✓
Brush and paint tray
Used for oil and varnish finishing.
Materials
Top board and bottom board (Lauan plywood 18mm)
18×600×1200mm
2 枚
Side boards (Lauan plywood 18mm)
18×600×964mm
2 枚
Shelf board (Lauan plywood 18mm)
18×590×1164mm
3 枚
Back panel (4mm veneer)
1200×1000mm
4mm thick
1 枚
Coarse-thread screws 38mm
38mm
60 本
Wood glue
Quick-drying type
1 本
Build steps
- 1
Measurement and confirmation of installation location
≈ 15 minMeasure the installation location of the TV stand and confirm if the standing desk (1200×600×1000mm) fits. Also check the position of power outlets, wiring routes, and the TV stand shape.
MeasureW 1200 mmMeasureSTEP 1 / 17Tip
- Ideal to have 100mm clearance on both sides plus the TV stand width. Consider reinforcement in the center of the top board if wall-mounted.
- Choose a location that allows at least 50mm clearance from the wall front and back for ventilation.
- If the floor is carpeted, measure assuming a hardboard will be placed underneath to prevent leg sinking and wobbling.
Watch out
- If the TV stand projects beyond the 600mm depth, it is dangerous. Always measure the bottom of the TV box before purchase.
- If storing AV amps or sound bars, first confirm that their dimensions fit within the shelf interior (W1164×D390×H328mm).
- 2
Create cut list and order from hardware store
≈ 30 minCut the top and bottom boards (18×400×1200)×2, side boards (18×400×364)×2, and shelf board (18×390×1164)×1 from 18mm Lauan plywood 1×6尺 panel. The back panel is 4mm veneer (1200×400)×1. The plywood is heavy and large, so using the hardware store's cut service is recommended.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 2 / 17Tip
- Cut services typically charge 30-50 yen per cut. They cut with accuracy within ±1mm.
- Grain direction looks better horizontally when viewed from the front. Specify when ordering.
- Length 364mm for side boards includes two 18mm thicknesses of top and bottom boards in internal dimensions, so convey this as is.
Watch out
- If plywood thickness is not 18mm (e.g. 12mm, 15mm, 21mm), side board length calculation changes. Confirm actual thickness before ordering.
- Cutting service only handles straight cuts. Wire holes and chamfers must be made by yourself.
- 3
Apply edge tape to cut plywood edges
≈ 25 minEdges (cut surfaces) of plywood are rough compared to decorative surfaces, so apply edge tape with an iron. Treat visible edges: front, back, left, and right edges of top and bottom boards; front edges of side and shelf boards. Use medium temperature (around 150℃) iron, press for 3-5 seconds.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 3 / 17Tip
- Edge tape adheres by melting the resin with heat. Press with cloth before cooling for better adhesion.
- Trim excess tape gently with a cutter angled to create a natural finish, cutting in 2-3 passes instead of all at once.
- No need to apply edge tape to back panel (4mm veneer) edges as they are not visible.
Watch out
- If the iron is moved continuously, heat does not penetrate well. Hold still for 3 seconds at each spot before moving.
- If temperature is too high, tape burns and color changes. Test temperature on leftover tape first.
- 4
Sand all components
≈ 30 minSand all components lightly first with #180 then #240 sandpaper. The plywood surface is originally smooth, so light passes suffice. Chamfer edges lightly with #240 to prevent hand injury. Also gently finish the edge tape ends with #240.
Sand#180SandSTEP 4 / 17Tip
- Sand with the grain. Sanding against the grain raises fibers causing uneven paint.
- Chamfer edges so that a tissue paper does not catch on edges.
- Use vacuum nozzle near sander to reduce dust during indoor sanding.
Watch out
- Plywood surface veneer is thin (0.2-0.5mm). Strong sanding exposes gray base layer. Sand lightly only.
- Sanding generates much dust. Work in ventilated area such as balcony or garage.
- 5
Mark shelf board position on side boards
≈ 20 minMark the shelf fixing position on both side boards. Draw a horizontal line 200mm above the bottom edge of side boards (this marks the shelf top surface position). Ensure symmetry by marking both side boards at the same dimensions. Use carpenter's square and pencil to draw lines and mark pilot hole positions (line at 9mm corresponds to shelf board thickness center).
Mark a lineUse a try squareMarkSTEP 5 / 17Tip
- Stack two side boards and mark one, then transfer marks to the other using a punch tool for exact matching.
- Shelf position can be adjusted based on equipment height; adding 50mm over AV amplifier height is a guideline.
- Pilot holes are centered on side board thickness (18mm), at 9mm from edge. Misalignment causes shelf offset.
Watch out
- If heights differ between side boards, shelf will tilt. Never skip transferring marks by stacking.
- Pencil lines may show through after painting; mark lightly intending to erase after assembly.
- 6
Drill pilot holes for shelf board and side boards
≈ 25 minDrill pilot holes (φ3.5mm) in shelf board end for fixing to side boards: 2 on each side for total 4. Also drill pilot holes through side board mark positions with φ3.5mm bits including countersink (φ8mm×3mm deep) on front side. Plywood resists splitting but be careful when drilling near edges.
Drill a holeφ3.5mmDrillSTEP 6 / 17Tip
- Countersink screw heads flush for neat finish.
- Use drill stopper for depth control to avoid through holes; set depth about board thickness minus 2mm.
- Clamp boards securely to prevent splitting when drilling holes close to edges.
Watch out
- Driving screws too close (<10mm) to plywood edge risks splitting. Pilot hole line at 9mm edge must be strictly observed.
- Drill perpendicularly to avoid screw tip protruding on opposite surface.
- 7
Temporarily assemble bottom board and side boards
≈ 30 minPlace bottom board on floor and stand the two side boards on top. Align the bottom edges of side boards with bottom board edges. Apply thin wood glue, then drill pilot holes (φ3.5mm) from bottom board side and drive 3 coarse-thread screws (38mm) per side (total 6). Confirm right angles between side and bottom boards using carpenter's square during assembly.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 7 / 17Tip
- Apply wood glue thinly like the thickness of a toothpick. Wipe excess immediately with damp cloth.
- Clamping side board temporarily before pilot holes prevents shifting.
- Ensure flat floor and check bottom board level with level before assembly to avoid distortion.
Watch out
- Applying too much glue causes overflow preventing proper painting. Keep thin and even.
- Driving screws without pilot holes can split plywood. Always drill pilot holes first.
- 8
Install shelf board
≈ 20 minSlide shelf board (1164mm long) into marked position. Align ends of shelf board with side boards. Apply wood glue, drill pilot holes (φ3.5mm) from outside of side boards, then drive two coarse-thread screws (38mm) per side (total 4). Check shelf board level with level.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 8 / 17Tip
- Shelf board length (1164mm) = top board width (1200mm) minus side board thickness (18mm×2). Confirm measurements before proceeding.
- No need to countersink screws for hidden shelf.
- If using adjustable shelf pins, drill multiple φ5mm holes during this step accordingly.
Watch out
- Shelf board too short causes wobble; too long causes side boards to bulge. Recheck cut dimensions carefully.
- Uneven shelf level causes remote controls and items to roll off. Always confirm with level.
- 9
Attach top board
≈ 25 minPlace top board (1200mm width) on box frame, aligning with side board upper edges. Drill pilot holes (φ3.5mm) from top board and drive three coarse-thread screws (38mm) per side (total 6). Hide screw heads in countersink holes; optionally fill with wood dowels or wood filler for neater finish.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 9 / 17Tip
- Top board is critical as TV support. For increased load capacity, increase screws to four per side (total 8).
- Fill countersink holes with φ9mm wooden dowels to hide joints. After painting, they are invisible.
- If TV is very heavy (over 30kg), consider adding 1x2 lumber reinforcement under top board centrally.
Watch out
- Incorrect front-back orientation causes misaligned wood grain. Align grain before fixing.
- Screw length 38mm is appropriate for 18mm top board; longer screws can penetrate shelf board underneath.
- 10
Check right angles and diagonal measurements
≈ 15 minCheck the entire box for right angles, using carpenter's square on all four interior corners to confirm 90 degrees. Measure the two diagonal distances inside the box with a tape measure; they must be equal within 2mm difference. If misaligned, loosen screws, clamp to correct distortion, then retighten.
InspectNo wobble ✓InspectSTEP 10 / 17Tip
- If diagonal difference exceeds 5mm, distortion is significant and the back panel won't fit; always correct.
- Using clamps to diagonally squeeze the box helps achieve right angles.
- Enlarging pilot holes to φ4mm creates play that makes adjustment easier.
Watch out
- If distortions are ignored, large gaps appear when installing back panel.
- Use reliable precision carpenter's square (aluminum or steel). Plastic squares have large errors.
- 11
Attach back panel
≈ 15 minAttach 4mm veneer back panel (1200×1000mm) at the rear, fixing edges and center with staples or small screws (φ3×20mm). Use staples every 30mm or screws every 100mm. The back panel fixes the box's right angles, greatly reducing distortion.
Build the frameCheck for squareAssembleSTEP 11 / 17Tip
- If box was distorted, correct using clamps during back panel fixing after checking diagonals.
- Stapler gun for fastening (fine staple-like pins) is faster than screws.
- Orient wood grain horizontally on back panel for a cleaner look of the TV stand.
Watch out
- Avoid installing back panel backwards — color and grain differ front and back.
- Staples might protrude on back side if missed. After work, check back surface by hand for any protrusions.
- 12
Make wiring holes (optional)
≈ 15 minDrill wiring holes in back panel using a 50mm hole saw to pass power cables, HDMI, and antenna cables. Position holes directly behind TV connection ports. If no hole saw, drill multiple holes and connect them with a fret saw.
Drill a hole下穴 φ3.5mmDrillSTEP 12 / 17Tip
- Apply edge tape to hole edges to protect cables and fingers.
- Confirm TV rear terminal layout first to ensure cables pass straight through desired position.
- Align holes with outlet height for neat appearance.
Watch out
- Incorrect hole placement disallows clean cable access behind TV. Temporarily place TV to mark hole positions.
- If hole saw spins without grip, plywood surface may delaminate. Ensure drill bit center engages firmly.
- 13
Finish surface preparation before painting
≈ 15 minLightly sand entire unit with #240 sandpaper before painting; completely remove dust with damp then dry cloth. Remove wood glue excess and burrs around screw holes. Suitable indoor finishes include Watco Oil, Briwax, or water-based paints.
Sand#240SandSTEP 13 / 17Tip
- Always test paint on scrap to check absorption as plywood draws paint differently from solid wood.
- Water-based paints are beginner-friendly with easy brush cleaning using water.
- Watco Oil yields natural wood surface look; apply by rubbing with cloth.
Watch out
- Glue-covered parts repel paint; sand lightly with #240 before painting.
- Dust left on surface causes rough texture. Clean thoroughly before painting.
- 14
First coat painting
≈ 30 minApply paint or oil evenly over entire unit using brush or rag, in order: top board, side boards, bottom board, back panel. Paint along wood grain in one direction to minimize brush marks. Apply thin layers, avoid thick coatings. Allow natural drying for over 2 hours.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 14 / 17Tip
- Use small containers. Leaving paint can open forms a skin making paint unusable.
- Use foam rollers for even paint application, reducing brush marks.
- Dry in dust-free environments; avoid fans that blow dust.
Watch out
- Thick coats cause uneven drying and later peeling; thin coats and two-coat system is essential.
- Drying under direct warm airflow forms hard surface with underdrying inside; natural drying recommended.
- 15
Mid-sanding and second coat painting
≈ 25 minAfter first coat is fully dry, lightly sand surface with #320 sandpaper to remove roughness. Remove dust and apply second coat thinner than first for even finish. Allow over 24 hours drying.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 15 / 17Tip
- Mid-sanding does not remove paint film but smooths surface roughness.
- Second coat should be thin to avoid runs.
- Avoid touching wet paint to prevent fingerprints and dust marks. Adhere to 24-hour drying time.
Watch out
- Sanding too aggressively removes first coat film; light sanding with #320 only.
- Thick second coat prolongs drying and may delay next work day.
- 16
Attach leg pads and anti-tip hardware
≈ 20 minAttach felt pads on feet bottoms to protect floors and prevent wobble. For earthquake safety, install anti-tip straps or brackets on upper back, fixing to wall studs with screws. This is the safest method to prevent TV stand tipping during major earthquakes.
Fix to the wallAnchor to studsInstallSTEP 16 / 17Tip
- Felt pads cost about 50 yen in hardware stores. 10mm thickness absorbs floor irregularities.
- Anti-tip straps available at 100-yen stores; purpose-built ones cost ~1000 yen and provide more safety.
- Match wall fixing to stud positions; gypsum board alone is inadequate.
Watch out
- Omitting felt pads causes floor scratches and damage.
- Omitting anti-tip prevention risks TV stand and TV damage in big earthquakes.
- 17
Final check and installation
≈ 20 minMove completed TV stand to installation spot. Use level to check front-back and side-side levelness. Adjust felt thickness if wobbling occurs. Place TV, route cables, power on and check operation. Initially place only light items and wait one week for paint to fully cure before heavy use.
Done!Done — nice work!DoneSTEP 17 / 17Tip
- Place TV centered to evenly distribute weight on top board; edge placement causes distortion.
- Route cables through back panel holes and organize with cable ties for neatness.
- If placing AV amplifiers or BD recorders on shelf, maintain 50mm front and back clearance for ventilation.
Watch out
- Paint requires one week to fully cure. Avoid placing remote controls or devices directly to prevent stickiness.
- Homes with tilted floors cannot achieve perfect level; adjust felt pad thickness separately on each side accordingly.
Warnings
- ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.
Custom design
Changing the dimensions roughly scales the cut list. Get the precise calculation in the app.
Enter dimensions (mm)
Quick estimateWidth W
Depth D
Height H
Base size 1200×600×1000 mm
Cut list (preview)
Total board length ≈ 8.8 m · Available at: カインズ / コメリ / コーナン / DCM
Accurate materials, prices, and cuts in the app
Per-retailer pricing, purchase links, and optimal cut layouts are auto-calculated in the app.
Examples6 examples
View all →Actual cost
¥8,026
Build time
3 h 32 min
Home center
コーナン
今回はスタンディングデスクにトライ。ケーブルは天板裏に配線モールで隠して、見た目スッキリ。完成までトータル 1 ヶ月、ゆるゆる進めて楽しかったです。
Actual cost
¥8,284
Build time
5 h 17 min
Home center
コーナン
スタンディングデスクを自作しました。天板の奥行きを 600mm 取って、モニター + ノート PC + サブ資料が並ぶ広さに。想定以上に綺麗に仕上がって、自分でもびっくり。
Actual cost
¥15,738
Build time
4 h 54 min
Home center
ロイヤルホームセンター
市販品ではしっくりこなかったのでスタンディングデスクを自分で組みました。脚にはアジャスターを付けて、床の不陸を吸収できるようにしてます。次は別のサイズで再チャレンジ予定です。
Actual cost
¥10,281
Build time
2 h 56 min
Home center
カインズ
今回はスタンディングデスクにトライ。賃貸でも置けるサイズで設計してます。ケーブルは天板裏に配線モールで隠して、見た目スッキリ。ホームセンター店員さんに相談しながら進めたのが良かった。
Actual cost
¥12,077
Build time
2 h 58 min
Home center
ロイヤルホームセンター
市販品ではしっくりこなかったのでスタンディングデスクを自分で組みました。天板の奥行きを 600mm 取って、モニター + ノート PC + サブ資料が並ぶ広さに。今回はマキタの新しい充電インパクトを実戦投入。トルクが段違いでした。費用対効果も高くて満足です。
Actual cost
¥8,731
Build time
3 h 20 min
Home center
ロイヤルホームセンター
今回はスタンディングデスクにトライ。天板の奥行きを 600mm 取って、モニター + ノート PC + サブ資料が並ぶ広さに。この作品で DIY のモチベがまた上がりました。
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