DIY Workbench

Dimensions

Cut list

Tools you'll need

• ✓

  Measuring tape (at least 5 m)

  Used for measuring all parts

• ✓

  Pencil and carpenter's square

  For marking layout lines and verifying right angles

• ✓

  Saw

  Home center cutting service recommended

• ✓

  Electric screwdriver

  Impact driver improves work efficiency

• ✓

  Sandpaper

  Prepare #120 and #240 grit

• ✓

  Level

  Essential for checking horizontality during assembly

• ✓

  Clamps (2 or more)

  Used for temporary fixing during jointing

• ✓

  Brush and paint tray

  Used for oil or varnish finishing

Materials

Build steps

1. 1

   Measuring and verifying placement location

   ≈ 15 min

   Measure the installation location for the TV stand to confirm if the DIY workbench (1800×800×850mm) fits. Check outlet positions, wiring routes, and the TV stand shape.

   Measure

   W 1800 mm

   MeasureSTEP 1 / 17

   Tip

   • Ideal clearance is TV stand width plus 100mm left and right. Consider reinforcing the center of the top board for wall-mounted TVs.
   • Choose a location leaving at least 50mm clearance from the wall front and back for ventilation.
   • If the floor is carpeted, assume placing a hard board underneath to prevent leg sinking and wobbling during measurement.

   Watch out

   • If the TV stand depth (800mm) is less than the TV stand size, it may protrude dangerously. Always measure the TV box bottom surface before purchase.
   • If storing AV amplifiers or soundbars, confirm equipment sizes fit inside shelf internal dimensions (W1164×D390×H328mm) beforehand.
2. 2

   Creating cut list and ordering from home center

   ≈ 30 min

   From 18mm Lauan plywood 1×6 six-foot boards, cut top and bottom boards (18×400×1200)×2, side boards (18×400×364)×2, shelf board (18×390×1164)×1, and back board veneer 4mm (1200×400)×1. Use home center cutting service because plywood sheets are heavy and large.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 2 / 17

   Tip

   • Home center cutting service charges 30-50 yen per cut and cuts with ±1mm accuracy.
   • Grain direction should be horizontal when viewed from the front for aesthetic appearance; specify when ordering.
   • Side board length 364mm includes two 18mm thicknesses of top and bottom boards in internal dimension calculation; communicate as is.

   Watch out

   • If plywood thickness differs (12mm, 15mm, 21mm, etc.), recalculation of side board length is necessary; confirm actual thickness before ordering.
   • Cutting service only supports straight cuts; holes and chamfers must be processed by yourself.
3. 3

   Applying edge band tape

   ≈ 25 min

   The plywood edges (cut surfaces) are rougher than finished faces; apply edge band tape with an iron. Treat visible edge surfaces — the front, back, left, and right edges of top and bottom boards, front edges of side boards and shelf board. Use medium heat (about 150°C), pressing for 3-5 seconds each spot.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 3 / 17

   Tip

   • Edge band tapes adhere by resin melting with heat; pressing with cloth before it cools improves adhesion.
   • Trim excess tape with a cutter at a bevel, cutting in 2-3 passes for a natural finish.
   • No need to apply edge band tape on the back board edges as they are not visible.

   Watch out

   • Moving the iron constantly prevents proper heat transfer; hold steady for 3 seconds per spot before moving.
   • Too high temperature scorches tape and changes its color; perform a temperature test on leftover tape first.
4. 4

   Sanding all components

   ≈ 30 min

   Sand all parts first with #180 then #240 grit sandpaper. The plywood surfaces are already smooth; sanding lightly is sufficient. Chamfer edges lightly with #240 to avoid sharpness. Also gently finish edges of edge band tape.

   Sand

   #180

   SandSTEP 4 / 17

   Tip

   • Sand with the grain to avoid raising wood fibers and finish unevenness.
   • The chamfered edge should feel smooth enough that 'tissue paper does not catch'.
   • Using a vacuum nozzle near the sander reduces dust, making indoor sanding tolerable.

   Watch out

   • The plywood decorative layer is thin (0.2-0.5mm); heavy sanding exposes the gray underlayer—sand lightly only.
   • Sanding produces much dust; perform outside or in ventilated areas like balcony or garage.
5. 5

   Marking shelf position on side boards

   ≈ 20 min

   Mark shelf board positions on the two side boards. Draw a horizontal line 200mm above the bottom edge of the side boards (this indicates the shelf board top position). Transfer same measurements to both side boards to maintain symmetry. Use carpenter's square and pencil to draw lines and mark pilot hole (at 9mm, the shelf board thickness center line).

   Mark a line

   Use a try square

   MarkSTEP 5 / 17

   Tip

   • Stack the two side boards and mark one; transfer to the other with a punch to ensure exact alignment.
   • Adjust shelf height according to equipment; 50mm above AV amplifier height is a guide.
   • Pilot holes are at 9mm from edge, the 18mm side board thickness centerline; inaccurate marking causes misaligned shelf boards.

   Watch out

   • Different heights on left and right side boards tilt the shelf board; do not forget transfer marking by stacking.
   • Pencil marks may remain visible after finishing; mark lightly intending to erase after assembly.
6. 6

   Drilling pilot holes on shelf board and side boards

   ≈ 25 min

   Drill pilot holes (φ3.5mm) on the shelf board end surfaces for side board attachment: two holes on each side, total four. Also drill through pilot holes φ3.5mm at the marked positions on side boards' front face, countersink φ8mm × 3mm depth. Plywood resists splitting but holes near edges need care.

   Drill a hole

   φ3.5mm

   DrillSTEP 6 / 17

   Tip

   • Countersinking screw heads flush gives neat finish.
   • Use a drill stopper to control depth (about board thickness minus 2mm) to avoid drilling through.
   • Clamp the shelf board before drilling end surface pilot holes to prevent splitting.

   Watch out

   • Screwing within 10mm from plywood edge risks edge splitting; pilot hole must be exactly at 9mm center.
   • Inserting the drill at an angle causes protrusion on opposite side; drill vertically.
7. 7

   Temporary assembly of bottom board and side boards

   ≈ 30 min

   Place the bottom board on the floor and stand the two side boards upright at edges aligned. Apply thin wood glue, drill φ3.5mm pilot holes from bottom board side, then drive three 38mm coarse-thread screws per side (6 total). Confirm right angles between side and bottom boards with carpenter's square during assembly.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 7 / 17

   Tip

   • Spread wood glue thinly, about the thickness of a toothpick; wipe excess immediately.
   • Clamping side boards before drilling pilot holes prevents movements.
   • Ensure floor is level with a level tool before assembly to prevent warping.

   Watch out

   • Applying too much glue causes overflow preventing paint adhesion; keep glue layer thin and even.
   • Not drilling pilot holes causes plywood splitting; always drill first.
8. 8

   Attaching the shelf board

   ≈ 20 min

   Insert the shelf board (1164mm length) into the side boards aligning ends. Apply wood glue, drill φ3.5mm pilot holes from outside side boards, then drive two 38mm coarse-thread screws per side (4 total). Use a level to check the shelf board is horizontal.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 8 / 17

   Tip

   • Confirm shelf board length 1164mm equals 1800mm top board width minus 18mm thickness ×2 side boards before proceeding.
   • No countersinking required since shelf board is hidden internally.
   • For adjustable shelves, drill multiple φ5mm holes now for dowels.

   Watch out

   • Too short shelf boards cause wobble; too long cause side boards to bow outwards; verify dimensions.
   • Uneven shelf boards cause remote controls or small items to roll; verify level with a level tool.
9. 9

   Attaching the top board

   ≈ 25 min

   Place the top board (1200mm width) on the assembled box, aligning with side boards' top edges. Drill φ3.5mm pilot holes from top board side, then drive three 38mm coarse-thread screws per side (6 total). Countersink screws and fill holes later with wood dowels or filler for a neat finish.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 9 / 17

   Tip

   • The top board supports the TV and is a critical component; reinforce by adding more screws (4 per side, total 8) to increase load capacity.
   • Fill countersink holes with φ9mm wood dowels for a seamless joint; after painting, they are invisible.
   • For heavy TVs (over 30kg), add a 1×2 lumber reinforcement underneath center of top board.

   Watch out

   • Installing top board backward misaligns grain direction; ensure correct wood grain orientation before driving screws.
   • 38mm screws suit 18mm top board thickness; longer screws may penetrate shelf board beneath.
10. 10

    Checking right angles and diagonal measurements

    ≈ 15 min

    Check right angles of the entire box. Use a carpenter's square on all four internal corners to verify 90°. Measure internal diagonal dimensions with a measuring tape; confirm both diagonals equal within 2mm tolerance. If misaligned, loosen screws, clamp to correct skew, then retighten.

    Inspect

    No wobble ✓

    InspectSTEP 10 / 17

    Tip

    • Diagonal differences over 5mm indicate significant distortion; correct to fit back board.
    • Clamping the entire box diagonally helps achieve right angles.
    • Enlarging pilot holes to φ4mm allows some adjustment play for alignment.

    Watch out

    • Ignoring distortions now results in large gaps when fitting the back board.
    • Use reliable carpenter's squares (aluminum or steel); plastic ones often have large errors.
11. 11

    Attaching the back board

    ≈ 15 min

    Attach 4mm veneer back board (1800×850mm) to rear face using a staple gun or small screws (φ3×20mm). Fix edges and center: staples every 30mm, screws every 100mm. The back board fixes right angles and largely eliminates box distortions.

    Build the frame

    Check for square

    AssembleSTEP 11 / 17

    Tip

    • Before attaching back board, if box is warped, clamp and correct during attachment.
    • Staple guns are faster; operate like a thin stapler tool.
    • Install the back board grain horizontally to create a neat overall appearance.

    Watch out

    • Avoid reversing the back board; front and back sides differ in color and grain.
    • Check for staple prongs protruding through; run hand on back after installation to confirm.
12. 12

    Cutting cable pass-through hole if needed

    ≈ 15 min

    Cut a wiring hole φ50mm in the back board for TV power, HDMI, and antenna cables. Position ideally directly behind TV connection ports. If no hole saw, drill multiple holes and connect with a fret saw.

    Drill a hole

    φ50mm

    DrillSTEP 12 / 17

    Tip

    • Apply edge band tape around hole edge to protect cables and fingers.
    • Confirm TV rear port layout to plan hole position for straight cable routing.
    • Align hole height with outlet for a tidy look.

    Watch out

    • Incorrect hole position makes cable extraction awkward and unattractive; mark with TV temporarily placed.
    • Hole saw skidding can peel plywood surface; keep drill bit center steady.
13. 13

    Preparing for painting

    ≈ 15 min

    Before finishing, lightly sand all surfaces with #240 sandpaper to remove dust, wood glue residue, and screw burrs. Use a damp cloth and dry cloth to fully remove dust. For indoor use, Watco Oil, Briwax, or water-based finishes are easy to apply.

    Sand

    #240

    SandSTEP 13 / 17

    Tip

    • Always test paint on scrap to check color intensity; plywood absorbs paint differently from solid wood.
    • Water-based paints are beginner friendly and brushes clean with water.
    • Watco Oil yields natural wood appearance and is applied by rubbing with cloth.

    Watch out

    • Glue spots repel paint; sand lightly with #240 before painting.
    • Leaving dust before painting causes rough surfaces; clean thoroughly.
14. 14

    Applying first coat of paint

    ≈ 30 min

    Apply paint or finish over all surfaces with a brush or rag in the order: top board → side boards → bottom board → back board, painting from larger to smaller surfaces. Brush along wood grain in one direction for uniform finish. Apply thin, even coats; allow at least 2 hours drying time.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 14 / 17

    Tip

    • Decant paint into smaller containers to prevent skin forming by exposure.
    • If brush marks are undesirable, use a foam roller for even application.
    • Dry in low dust areas; avoid near fans or direct airflow.

    Watch out

    • Thick coats dry unevenly and may peel later; apply thin coats twice.
    • Drying under heating forced airflow causes surface hardening but interior remains wet; allow natural drying.
15. 15

    Light sanding and second coat

    ≈ 25 min

    After first coat fully dries, lightly sand with #320 sandpaper to remove roughness. Remove dust and apply second coat, thinning paint slightly for uniform finish. Allow 24 hours drying time.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 15 / 17

    Tip

    • Light sanding should smooth surface rather than remove paint.
    • Thin second coat prevents drips.
    • Avoid touching surface while drying to prevent fingerprints and dust marks; adhere to 24-hour drying.

    Watch out

    • Sanding too hard removes first coat; keep it light with #320.
    • Thick second coats extend drying time and delay following work.
16. 16

    Installing foot pads and earthquake-resistant fittings

    ≈ 20 min

    Attach felt pads to leg bottoms to prevent floor damage and wobbling. Install earthquake safety straps or anti-tip fittings on upper back. Fasten to wall studs with screws for maximum safety against large earthquakes.

    Fix to the wall

    Anchor to studs

    InstallSTEP 16 / 17

    Tip

    • Felt pads cost about 50 yen at home centers; 10mm thickness absorbs floor irregularities effectively.
    • Earthquake straps are available at 100 yen stores; TV stand specials around 1000 yen offer added safety.
    • Attach wall fittings at stud positions; drywall alone is insufficient.

    Watch out

    • Omitting felt pads causes scratches and damage on flooring.
    • Skipping anti-tip fittings risks TV stand and TV damage during major quakes.
17. 17

    Final checks and installation

    ≈ 20 min

    Move the completed TV stand to installation site. Use a level to confirm front, back, left, and right horizontality. Adjust wobble with felt pads. Place the TV, route cables, and confirm power operation. Initially place only light items; wait one week for paint full curing.

    Done!

    Done — nice work!

    DoneSTEP 17 / 17

    Tip

    • Center heavy TV loads on the top board evenly to avoid distortions.
    • Route cables cleanly through back board holes and bundle with cable ties for neatness.
    • Leave at least 50mm front and back ventilation space inside shelves for AV amplifiers or Blu-ray recorders.

    Watch out

    • Paint requires one week to fully cure; placing devices or using remote controls on the first day can cause stickiness.
    • Uneven floors prevent leveling; adjust felt pad thickness on left and right to achieve level.

Warnings

• ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.

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