Dining table
Simple Dining Table
DIY blueprint for Simple Dining Table.
Dimensions
Width (W)
1200mm
Depth (D)
700mm
Height (H)
720mm
Cut list
Tools you'll need
- ✓
Measuring Tape (5m or more)
Used to measure each part.
- ✓
Pencil and Carpenter's Square
For marking and confirming right angles.
- ✓
Handsaw
Using home center cutting service is recommended.
- ✓
Electric Driver
Impact driver improves work efficiency.
- ✓
Sandpaper
Prepare two types: #120 and #240.
- ✓
Level
Essential for checking levelness during assembly.
- ✓
Clamps (2 or more)
Used for temporary fixation when joining parts.
- ✓
Brush and Paint Tray
Used for applying oil or varnish finish.
Materials
Build steps
- 1
Measuring and Confirming Installation Space
≈ 15 minMeasure the placement area for the simple dining table (1200×700×720mm). Confirm the front and back space when chairs are pulled out (chair depth plus at least 400mm) and check the serving paths for dishes.
MeasureW 1200 mmMeasureSTEP 1 / 12Tip
- For a standard dining style, allow about 600mm width by 400mm depth per person.
- Table height 720mm assumes a standard dining chair seat height (420mm) plus 300mm clearance.
- Maintain at least 800mm distance to the wall to allow pulling out the chair.
Watch out
- Tabletop 1200×700mm is a standard 4-person size but can be cramped for households with many large serving dishes.
- Overlooking chair backrest during measurement can result in an arrangement where chairs cannot be pulled out.
- 2
Creating Cutting List and Ordering from Home Center
≈ 40 minPrepare nine tabletop pieces (38×140×1200mm) from 2x6 lumber, four legs (38×89×682mm), two long-side apron boards (38×89×1124mm), and two short-side apron boards (38×89×624mm) from 2x4 lumber. Prepare 60 pieces of 75mm coarse-thread screws. Using the paid cutting service at the home center is convenient.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 2 / 12Tip
- Actual dimension of 2x6 lumber is 38×140mm; be cautious between nominal and actual sizes.
- Nine tabletop boards arranged side by side equal 140×9=1260mm. Even with 3mm gaps between boards, total length becomes 1284mm.
- Effective tabletop width is 9 boards ×140mm plus 8 gaps ×3mm = 1284mm, exceeding the planned 1200mm width, so adjust the number or width of boards accordingly.
Watch out
- Selecting warped or twisted 2x6 boards causes the tabletop to warp; visually check each piece when purchasing.
- Leg length 682mm equals table height 720mm minus tabletop thickness 38mm; specify actual dimensions to avoid cutting errors.
- 3
Sanding All Parts
≈ 50 minSand in this order: #120 → #180 → #240 grit sandpaper. Sand the 2x6 tabletop boards especially carefully — after repeated wet wiping to raise grain and then fully drying, finish with #240 grit to reduce food stains absorption.
Sand#120 → #180 → #240SandSTEP 3 / 12Tip
- Avoid splinters on dining surfaces; confirm by feeling with fingertips.
- The ‘wetting and drying’ sanding method reduces raised grain after finishing.
- Using an orbital sander saves time; consider renting one if available.
Watch out
- Not chamfering corners causes clothing or skin to snag; be especially careful at children's face height.
- Considerable dust is generated during sanding; perform in well-ventilated areas like balconies or garages.
- 4
Temporary Assembly of Legs and Apron (Frame Construction)
≈ 45 minPosition the apron boards 50mm down from the top of each leg (from the leg end). Attach apron boards outside the legs using two 75mm coarse-thread screws per connection. Confirm right angles at all corners with a carpenter's square. Completion of a rectangular frame indicates success.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 4 / 12Tip
- Attachment outside or inside legs affects strength and appearance; outside gives better appearance but inside contacts tabletop more closely.
- Drill φ5mm pilot holes in apron boards before screwing to prevent leg wood splitting.
- Right angle accuracy directly affects tabletop fit after assembly.
Watch out
- Driving 75mm screws without pilot holes easily splits 2x4 lumber.
- Assembling legs without aligning grain or knots results in inconsistent appearance.
- 5
Checking Frame Right Angles and Diagonals
≈ 15 minPlace the assembled frame on a flat floor and confirm all four legs contact evenly (check for wobble). Measure two inner diagonal lengths with a tape measure, confirming discrepancy is within 2mm. If off, loosen screws and use clamps to correct the frame along the diagonal, then retighten screws.
InspectNo wobble ✓InspectSTEP 5 / 12Tip
- Measurements become inaccurate on uneven floors; work on a level surface.
- Diagonal difference exceeding 5mm causes the tabletop to sit crooked; keep within 2mm.
- If wobble occurs, one leg is off the floor; adjust until all contact evenly.
Watch out
- Ignoring distortion causes tabletop to lift or misfit in later steps.
- Accuracy of carpenter's square is critical; cheap ones can be off by over 0.5 degrees.
- 6
Tabletop Assembly
≈ 40 minArrange the nine 2x6 tabletop boards on a workbench aligning grain direction. Insert 3mm thick chopsticks between boards to maintain breathing space. Attach two 2x4 reinforcement strips (battens) underneath with wood glue and 45mm coarse-thread screws, integrating the boards into one tabletop unit.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 6 / 12Tip
- Alternating grain direction (growth ring orientation) between boards reduces warping or cracking.
- Position battens 200mm inside from the tabletop edges to avoid visible edges.
- Ensure 45mm screws do not penetrate the 38mm thick boards by measuring length accurately.
Watch out
- Tight joints with no gaps cause tabletop swelling and warping due to moisture; always keep 3mm breathing space.
- Misaligned battens cause overall tabletop distortion; verify right angles with carpenter's square.
- 7
Securing Tabletop to Frame
≈ 30 minPlace the tabletop onto the frame, confirming balanced overhangs of about 30mm on all sides. Drill φ5mm pilot holes from apron boards into tabletop underside, then drive 75mm coarse-thread screws. Use four screws from each long apron board and two from each short apron board (total 12 screws) for fixation.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 7 / 12Tip
- Overhang of 30-50mm prevents interference with dining activities.
- Drive screws closer to inner edge of apron boards rather than center to reduce wood splitting.
- Screw length should not exceed apron thickness plus 20mm to avoid penetrating tabletop.
Watch out
- Driving 75mm screws directly can cause screw heads to protrude on tabletop; countersink pilot holes properly.
- Excessive overhang (>50mm) causes tabletop to sag; 30mm is optimal.
- 8
Preparing Surface for Finishing
≈ 20 minLightly sand the entire piece again with #240 grit to remove dust and smooth surface before finishing. Use indoor finish options like water-based urethane varnish, Watco Oil, or Briwax. Use finishes marked as compliant with food sanitation law for surfaces contacting food.
Sand#240SandSTEP 8 / 12Tip
- Matte or semi-gloss water-based urethane varnish offers strong water and heat resistance ideal for dining tables.
- Watco Oil preserves wood texture and yields a soft finish.
- Always test finish on a scrap board to confirm color before main application.
Watch out
- Glue spots repel finish; remove with #240 sanding.
- Applying finish with dust remaining causes rough surface texture.
- 9
First Coat of Finish
≈ 40 minApply finish with a brush sequentially over tabletop, apron boards, legs, then underside, always painting along grain in one direction to avoid brush marks. Water-based urethane varnish dries about 3 hours; Watco Oil requires 15-20 minutes soaking before wiping off excess and 2 hours drying.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 9 / 12Tip
- Apply thin coats of varnish twice to avoid bubbles and shrinking; thick coats cause defects.
- Always wipe excess Watco Oil to prevent sticky surface after drying.
- Place drying table in dust-free area.
Watch out
- Applying thick varnish causes dripping and uneven finish after drying.
- Drying directly in heating drafts causes surface drying only and incomplete curing inside; allow natural drying.
- 10
Sanding Between Coats and Second Coat
≈ 40 minAfter full drying of first coat, lightly sand the surface with very fine #400 sandpaper (scuff sanding). Remove dust and apply the second coat thinner than the first. For three coats, repeat scuff sanding once more between the second and third coats.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 10 / 12Tip
- Lightly scuff sanding only smooths raised fibers without removing first coat.
- Two coats markedly improve water and abrasion resistance, essential for dining tables.
- Three coats yield a hard, glossy surface similar to commercial tables.
Watch out
- Excessive scuff sanding removes first coat.
- Touching surface before full drying invites fingerprints and dust; observe 24 hours drying minimum.
- 11
Waiting for Complete Hardening of Finish
≈ 10 minAvoid placing heavy objects on the table for at least 72 hours after finishing to allow complete curing. Water-based urethane varnish typically fully cures in one week. During this period, avoid eating or working on the table and loosely cover with cloth to prevent dust settling.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 11 / 12Tip
- Curing time depends on finish type; follow manufacturer's instructions on can.
- Complete cure is confirmed when pressing lightly with fingernail leaves no mark.
- Drying time varies with temperature; 3-4 days in summer, 1 week or more in winter.
Watch out
- Placing hot pots before curing melts or marks finish.
- Dropping dishes can chip finish before it's fully hardened; handle with care.
- 12
Attaching Leg Pads and Final Checks
≈ 20 minAttach felt pads to the bottom of all four legs to prevent floor damage. Move the table to its placement and check level using a level tool. Adjust pad thickness if wobble occurs. Pull out chairs and sit to confirm knees do not hit apron boards.
Done!Done — nice work!DoneSTEP 12 / 12Tip
- 10mm thick felt pads absorb minor floor unevenness.
- Felt pads suit hard floors (flooring); rubber pads are preferable for tatami mats.
- If wobbling persists, adjust by using thinner pads on one leg.
Watch out
- Not applying pads causes floor scratches due to table weight.
- Incorrect difference between chair seat and table (270-300mm) leads to poor dining posture.
Warnings
- ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood from splitting.
Custom design
Changing the dimensions roughly scales the cut list. Get the precise calculation in the app.
Enter dimensions (mm)
Quick estimateWidth W
Depth D
Height H
Base size 1200×700×720 mm
Cut list (preview)
Total board length ≈ 17 m · Available at: カインズ / コメリ / コーナン / DCM
Accurate materials, prices, and cuts in the app
Per-retailer pricing, purchase links, and optimal cut layouts are auto-calculated in the app.
Examples15 examples
View all →Actual cost
¥17,650
Build time
4 h 34 min
Home center
コーナン
市販品ではしっくりこなかったのでシンプルダイニングテーブルを自分で組みました。賃貸でも置けるサイズで設計してます。メイン材は今回もイタウバ。雨ざらしでも 10 年は安心です。ハードメープルは硬くて加工が大変ですが、傷が付きにくいので食卓向きです。家族にも好評で作って良かった。
Actual cost
¥9,702
Build time
4 h 43 min
Home center
DCM
気になっていたシンプルダイニングテーブルにようやく挑戦。賃貸でも置けるサイズで設計してます。脚はホゾ組みで強度を確保。組んだ後の安定感が違います。次は別のサイズで再チャレンジ予定です。
Actual cost
¥14,421
Build time
5 h 5 min
Home center
コメリ
週末を使ってシンプルダイニングテーブルを作りました。賃貸でも置けるサイズで設計してます。ハードメープルは硬くて加工が大変ですが、傷が付きにくいので食卓向きです。家族にも好評で作って良かった。
Actual cost
¥17,243
Build time
5 h 29 min
Home center
コメリ
今回はシンプルダイニングテーブルにトライ。古い柱や梁とのバランスを意識して仕上げました。天板はオイル仕上げ (ワトコ ナチュラル)。3 度塗りで木目がくっきり出ました。子供が触っても安全なように角は全部丸めてます。家族にも好評で作って良かった。
Actual cost
¥8,216
Build time
5 h 37 min
Home center
DCM
今回はシンプルダイニングテーブルにトライ。一人暮らしなので一人で組み立てられる構造に。ハードメープルは硬くて加工が大変ですが、傷が付きにくいので食卓向きです。結果には満足してます。
Actual cost
¥20,847
Build time
4 h 56 min
Home center
コメリ
市販品ではしっくりこなかったのでシンプルダイニングテーブルを自分で組みました。マンション住まいなので搬入できる寸法を最優先。脚はホゾ組みで強度を確保。組んだ後の安定感が違います。この作品で DIY のモチベがまた上がりました。
Ratings
Comments5
- Yusuke / ユウスケ2026/04/26

脚の固定が難しそうなんですが、ボンド+ビスでいけますか?
- Nana インテリア2026/04/26

天板の角を面取りすると一気に印象が柔らかくなりますよ
- Yumi/木工女子2026/04/26

幕板を太めにして天板裏で雇い実継ぎすると、長年使っても歪みにくいです
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