Dining table
Bar-Height Table
DIY blueprint for Bar-Height Table.
Dimensions
Width (W)
1200mm
Depth (D)
400mm
Height (H)
1000mm
Cut list
Tools you'll need
- ✓
Tape measure (5m or longer)
Used for measuring each material
- ✓
Pencil and carpenter's square
For marking and checking right angles
- ✓
Saw
Home center cutting service recommended
- ✓
Electric screwdriver
Using an impact driver improves efficiency
- ✓
Sandpaper
Prepare two types: #120 and #240
- ✓
Level
Essential for checking horizontal alignment during assembly
- ✓
Clamps (2 or more)
Used for temporary fixing during joining
- ✓
Brush and paint tray
For oil and varnish finishing
Materials
Build steps
- 1
Confirm measurements and installation environment
≈ 15 minMeasure the installation location for the high table (bar counter) sized 1200×400×1000mm. Confirm the front and back space for sitting with a chair pulled out (chair depth + at least 400mm) and the serving route for dishes.
MeasureW 1200 mmMeasureSTEP 1 / 12Tip
- For a standard dining style, allow approximately 600mm width × 400mm depth per person
- A table height of 720mm assumes a typical dining chair seat height of 420mm plus a clearance of 300mm
- Maintain at least 800mm distance from the wall to allow chair pulling out
Watch out
- A tabletop of 1200×700mm is standard for seating 4 people, but can feel cramped for households with many large shared dishes
- Omitting the chair backrest dimension during measuring can result in an arrangement where entry and exit are blocked
- 2
Create material cutting list and order at home center
≈ 40 minPrepare 9 pieces of 2×6 lumber for the tabletop (38×140×1200mm), 4 legs of 2×4 lumber (38×89×962mm), 2 long apron boards (38×89×1124mm), and 2 short apron boards (38×89×324mm). Prepare 60 coarse-thread screws of 75mm length. Paid cutting services at the home center are convenient.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 2 / 12Tip
- 2×6 lumber actual size is 38×140mm; note the difference from nominal size
- Arranging 9 tabletop boards yields 140×9=1260mm width. Even with 3mm gaps between boards, the total is 1284mm, exceeding 1200mm width
- The actual effective tabletop width is 9 boards × 140mm plus 8 gaps × 3mm = 1284mm, so adjust board count or width accordingly
Watch out
- Selecting warped or twisted 2×6 boards will cause the tabletop to be uneven; inspect each piece visually when purchasing
- Leg length should be 962mm = 1000mm height minus tabletop thickness 38mm; specify actual measurements to avoid cut length errors
- 3
Sand all materials
≈ 50 minSand sequentially with #120, then #180, then #240 sandpaper. For the tabletop 2×6 lumber, sand carefully—wipe with a damp cloth repeatedly to raise the grain, dry completely, then finish with #240 to prevent food stains from soaking in.
Sand#120SandSTEP 3 / 12Tip
- Food contact surfaces must have no splinters; check by running the palm over the surface
- The 'water raising' step of wiping and drying reduces raised grain after sanding
- Using an orbital sander shortens work; consider rental services
Watch out
- Forgetting to chamfer edges causes clothes or skin to catch, especially at child face height
- Sanding produces a lot of dust; work in a ventilated area such as a balcony or garage
- 4
Temporary assembly of legs and apron boards (create frame)
≈ 45 minPlace the legs' upper end 50mm down from the top edge (legs' top) and attach the long and short apron boards outside the legs. Drive two coarse-thread screws 75mm per joint. Successfully forming a rectangular frame requires confirming each corner's right angle with a carpenter's square.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 4 / 12Tip
- Attaching apron boards outside the legs improves appearance; inside attachment contacts the tabletop more strongly
- Drill φ5mm pilot holes in apron boards before screwing to prevent splitting legs
- Right angle accuracy in joint corners impacts tabletop fitting
Watch out
- Driving 75mm screws without pilot holes easily splits 2×4 lumber
- Not aligning knots and grain direction of legs causes inconsistent appearance
- 5
Check frame right angles and diagonal lengths
≈ 15 minPlace the assembled frame on a flat floor checking if all four legs contact the floor (no wobble). Measure both diagonal lengths inside the frame with a tape measure; confirm difference within 2mm. If off, loosen screws and clamp across diagonals to correct before retightening.
InspectNo wobble ✓InspectSTEP 5 / 12Tip
- Use a flat floor for accurate measurement
- Diagonal difference over 5mm causes the tabletop to be skewed; maintain within 2mm
- If wobble exists, adjust so all legs touch the floor
Watch out
- Proceeding with distortion causes tabletop to lift or edges to misalign
- Low-quality carpenter's squares may have errors over 0.5° affecting accuracy
- 6
Assemble the tabletop
≈ 40 minLine up 9 tabletop 2×6 boards on a workbench aligning grain direction. Insert 3mm thick chopsticks between boards to allow breathing space. Attach two 2×4 reinforcement battens across the underside using wood glue and 45mm coarse-thread screws to unify the tabletop.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 6 / 12Tip
- Alternating grain direction (heart side) of boards offsets warping and reduces cracking
- Place battens 200mm inside from the tabletop edges to avoid poor appearance
- 45mm screws do not penetrate 38mm tabletop thickness; verify with actual measurement
Watch out
- Tightly butting boards with no gaps causes warping from moisture; maintain 3mm breathing space
- Battens misaligned at an angle warp the entire tabletop; verify right angles with square
- 7
Attach tabletop to frame
≈ 30 minPlace the tabletop on the frame, checking balance with about 30mm overhang on all sides. Drill φ5mm pilot holes from apron boards upward into the tabletop underside and drive 75mm coarse-thread screws; fix with 4 screws from each long apron and 2 from each short apron (total 12 screws).
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 7 / 12Tip
- Overhang of 30-50mm avoids interfering with dining motion
- Drive screws towards the apron board's inner side rather than center to reduce grain splitting
- Screw length should not exceed apron thickness plus 20mm to avoid penetration
Watch out
- Driving 75mm screws without pilot holes and countersinking can cause screw heads to protrude on the tabletop surface
- Overhang exceeding 50mm causes tabletop sagging; about 30mm is ideal
- 8
Prepare surface before finishing
≈ 20 minBefore finishing, lightly sand all surfaces again with #240 sandpaper and remove dust with a damp cloth. Suitable finishes are water-based urethane varnish, Watco Oil, or Briwax. Use finish labeled as 'compliant with food sanitation law' on surfaces contacting food.
Sand#240SandSTEP 8 / 12Tip
- Water-based urethane varnish (matte or semi-gloss) is highly water- and heat-resistant, ideal for dining tables
- Watco Oil retains wood texture, yielding a soft finish
- Always test paint on a scrap board to confirm color
Watch out
- Glue spots repel finish; sand with #240 to remove
- Leaving dust on surface causes rough finish
- 9
Apply first finish coat
≈ 40 minUse a brush to apply finish over all surfaces, starting from tabletop, then apron boards, legs, and underside, brushing in the wood grain direction to avoid brush marks. For water-based urethane, dry about 3 hours; for Watco Oil, soak 15-20 minutes then wipe off excess and dry 2 hours.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 9 / 12Tip
- Apply thin coats with urethane varnish twice to avoid bubbles and shrinkage
- Wipe off excess Watco Oil to prevent stickiness after drying
- Keep drying area dust-free
Watch out
- Applying thick varnish causes drips and uneven drying
- Drying in direct heater airflow causes surface drying but internal humidity remains
- 10
Light sanding and second finish coat
≈ 40 minAfter the first coat is completely dry, lightly sand surface with #400 ultra-fine sandpaper (scuff sanding). Remove dust and apply the second coat more thinly. For three coats to thicken the finish, include another scuff sanding step before the third coat.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 10 / 12Tip
- #400 sanding lightly removes raised grain without damaging first coat
- Two coats greatly improve water and abrasion resistance, essential for dining tables
- Three coats produce a harder, glossier finish typical of commercial tables
Watch out
- Excessive sanding removes the first coat finish
- Touching surface before drying leaves fingerprints and dust; respect 24-hour drying
- 11
Wait for complete finish curing
≈ 10 minAfter finishing, avoid placing heavy objects on the table for at least 72 hours to allow full curing. Water-based urethane varnish completely cures in one week. Avoid use for eating or working and cover lightly with cloth to protect from dust.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 11 / 12Tip
- Curing time varies by finish; strictly follow can instructions
- You can check curing by pressing with a fingernail to see if surface rebounds without indentations
- Drying times vary with temperature—3-4 days in summer, over one week in winter
Watch out
- Placing hot pots directly damages the finish before curing
- Dropping dishes chips the finish; handle carefully during curing
- 12
Attach leg pads and final check
≈ 20 minAttach felt pads on all four leg bottoms to prevent floor scratches. Move table to installation location and check level with a level tool. Adjust pad thickness to eliminate wobble. Test sitting in a chair ensuring knees do not hit apron boards.
Done!Done — nice work!DoneSTEP 12 / 12Tip
- Felt pads about 10mm thick absorb floor unevenness
- Felt pads are suitable for hard floors; rubber pads better for tatami mats
- If wobbling persists, adjust with thinner pads on one leg
Watch out
- Using table without pads causes floor damage from weight
- If height difference between table and chair seat (clearance) is not 270-300mm, dining posture worsens
Warnings
- ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.
Custom design
Changing the dimensions roughly scales the cut list. Get the precise calculation in the app.
Enter dimensions (mm)
Quick estimateWidth W
Depth D
Height H
Base size 1200×400×1000 mm
Cut list (preview)
Total board length ≈ 17.5 m · Available at: カインズ / コメリ / コーナン / DCM
Accurate materials, prices, and cuts in the app
Per-retailer pricing, purchase links, and optimal cut layouts are auto-calculated in the app.
Examples13 examples
View all →Actual cost
¥16,564
Build time
5 h 59 min
Home center
ロイヤルホームセンター
今回はハイテーブル(バーカウンター)にトライ。一人暮らしなので一人で組み立てられる構造に。ハードウッド (ウリン) を選択。重さと固さに作業中泣かされました。天板はオイル仕上げ (ワトコ ナチュラル)。3 度塗りで木目がくっきり出ました。子供が触っても安全なように角は全部丸めてます。ホームセンター店員さんに相談しながら進めたのが良かった。
Actual cost
¥16,566
Build time
5 h 56 min
Home center
ロイヤルホームセンター
市販品ではしっくりこなかったのでハイテーブル(バーカウンター)を自分で組みました。賃貸でも置けるサイズで設計してます。メイン材は今回もイタウバ。雨ざらしでも 10 年は安心です。ハードメープルは硬くて加工が大変ですが、傷が付きにくいので食卓向きです。家族にも好評で作って良かった。
Actual cost
¥15,089
Build time
5 h 56 min
Home center
DCM
今回はハイテーブル(バーカウンター)にトライ。脚はホゾ組みで強度を確保。組んだ後の安定感が違います。ホームセンター店員さんに相談しながら進めたのが良かった。
Actual cost
¥22,414
Build time
4 h 7 min
Home center
ロイヤルホームセンター
今回はハイテーブル(バーカウンター)にトライ。マンション住まいなので搬入できる寸法を最優先。脚はホゾ組みで強度を確保。組んだ後の安定感が違います。家族にも好評で作って良かった。
Actual cost
¥9,830
Build time
5 h 31 min
Home center
カインズ
ハイテーブル(バーカウンター)を自作しました。賃貸でも置けるサイズで設計してます。メイン材は今回もイタウバ。雨ざらしでも 10 年は安心です。脚はホゾ組みで強度を確保。組んだ後の安定感が違います。ホームセンター店員さんに相談しながら進めたのが良かった。
Actual cost
¥21,536
Build time
4 h 14 min
Home center
カインズ
ハイテーブル(バーカウンター)を自作しました。古い柱や梁とのバランスを意識して仕上げました。天板はオイル仕上げ (ワトコ ナチュラル)。3 度塗りで木目がくっきり出ました。想定以上に綺麗に仕上がって、自分でもびっくり。
Ratings
Comments2
- Riko_studio2026/04/26

脚の固定が難しそうなんですが、ボンド+ビスでいけますか?
- DIY道_1222026/04/26

塗装はオイルとワックスどちらが初心者向けでしょうか
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