Entryway Bench Shoe Rack

Dimensions

Cut list

Tools you'll need

• ✓

  Measuring Tape (at least 5m)

  Used for measuring all parts.

• ✓

  Pencil and Carpenter's Square

  For marking lines and checking right angles.

• ✓

  Handsaw

  Using home center cutting service is recommended.

• ✓

  Electric Driver

  Impact driver improves work efficiency.

• ✓

  Sandpaper

  Prepare #120 and #240 grit types.

• ✓

  Level

  Essential for checking horizontality during assembly.

• ✓

  Clamps (2 or more)

  Used for temporary fixation during joining.

• ✓

  Brush and Paint Tray

  For application of oil or varnish finishes.

Materials

Build steps

1. 1

   Measuring and Confirming Installation Location

   ≈ 15 min

   Measure the installation location for the entrance bench with shoe rack (900×350×900mm). Confirm the width of the entrance space, ensure a walkway clearance of 600mm or more, and check the door swing range.

   Measure

   W 900 mm

   MeasureSTEP 1 / 13

   Tip

   • Place so that it does not interfere with the fan-shaped range when the entrance door is opened.
   • Leave a minimum 20mm gap between the wall and furniture for easier cleaning.
   • Avoid the boundary between entrance tiles and wood flooring to prevent wobbling.

   Watch out

   • If the entrance space is insufficient for the 900mm width, installation is not possible; advance measurement is important.
   • The entrance is a frequently used area; protruding placement at foot level risks tripping.
2. 2

   Creating Cut List for Materials

   ≈ 30 min

   Cut cedar boards 19mm thick into front and rear boards (19×120×900mm) ×16 each, and side boards (19×120×350mm) ×16 each. Bottom board is lauan plywood 12mm (12×312×862mm) ×1. Corner posts are 2x4 lumber cut to (38×89×900mm) ×4. Using a home center paid cutting service is convenient.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 2 / 13

   Tip

   • Cedar boards vary greatly in knots and warping; select individually by hand.
   • The 900mm corner post length includes the height of four stacked front/rear boards (120×4=480mm) plus 20mm allowance.
   • When using cutting service, you can specify aligning grain direction for better appearance.

   Watch out

   • End grain of cedar boards absorbs water easily; apply protective material thoroughly in later steps.
   • 2x4 lumber actual size is 38×89mm; specify '38×89' when ordering cuts due to difference from nominal size.
3. 3

   Sanding All Parts

   ≈ 40 min

   Sand all parts sequentially with #120 then #240 sandpaper. Cedar boards are soft and prone to warping and splinters; carefully sand end grains and surfaces. Chamfer corner posts to avoid catching shoes or injuring feet, making edges smooth.

   Sand

   #120

   SandSTEP 3 / 13

   Tip

   • Cedar fiber is coarse; sand along grain direction to avoid raising splinters.
   • Flatly sand end grains with #120 then #240 grit; omitting this causes uneven paint coverage.
   • Using an orbital sander reduces time to one third; use rental services if available.

   Watch out

   • Sanding generates large amounts of dust; perform in ventilated areas like balconies or garages.
   • Failing to remove dust before painting results in rough surfaces; use air blower or damp cloth for dust removal.
4. 4

   Erecting and Temporarily Fixing Corner Posts

   ≈ 25 min

   Stand the four 2x4 lumber posts vertically and arrange at the four corners of the workbench. Temporarily clamp for horizontal leveling relative to the workbench. Use a level to confirm verticality. Measure inside spacing between posts to be 600mm front to back and 300mm left to right using a measuring tape.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 4 / 13

   Tip

   • Check verticality using level on two planes (front and side) aiming for zero deviation.
   • Uneven concrete or cushioned flooring may require placing plywood for a flat work surface.
   • Align knots on posts facing the same direction for better appearance by rotating posts during placement.

   Watch out

   • If even one post is not vertical, the attached boards will tilt front/back or left/right after assembly.
   • When measuring spacing with measuring tape, consistently measure either inside or outside edges, or spacing errors of 5-10mm occur.
5. 5

   Attaching Front and Rear Boards (from Bottom)

   ≈ 40 min

   Place the first cedar board horizontally at the lowest front position, apply wood glue to the left and right corner posts, and fix with 65mm coarse-thread screws. Use 2 screws per side (4 total) per board. From the second board upwards, insert a 5mm ventilation slit (one chopstick width) between each when stacking. Out of 10 boards, attach 5 on the front and 5 on the rear.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 5 / 13

   Tip

   • A 5mm ventilation slit prevents moisture build-up for shoes; closing this gap causes mold.
   • Using chopsticks to space ensures uniform ventilation slits.
   • Drill pilot holes (φ4mm) on the corner post side before screwing to avoid wood splitting.

   Watch out

   • Driving 65mm screws without pilot holes splits cedar boards; always drill pilot holes.
   • Overdriving screws dents cedar board surfaces; stop when flush with board surface.
6. 6

   Attaching Side Boards (Left and Right)

   ≈ 35 min

   Attach 16 side boards (19×120×350mm) on both sides similarly with ventilation slits. Place 5 boards on each side. Adjust positions of front and rear boards first so the ends meet precisely where side boards meet at corners. Measure the diagonal lengths front-to-back with a tape measure and fix while ensuring both diagonals are equal.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 6 / 13

   Tip

   • Unequal diagonals cause parallelogram distortion; correct with clamps until equal.
   • Side boards are inset relative to front/rear boards, so offset pilot hole positions slightly from front/rear board edges.
   • If corners look misaligned, cutting corner wood at 45° before fastening yields a cleaner finish.

   Watch out

   • Ventilation slit positions must align between side and front/rear boards to avoid inconsistent appearance.
   • Diagonal length discrepancies over 5mm interfere with smooth shoe storage.
7. 7

   Processing and Attaching Bottom Board

   ≈ 25 min

   On the lauan plywood 12mm bottom board (262×562mm), drill nine φ20mm ventilation holes evenly arranged in 3 rows by 3 columns. Keep holes at least 50mm from edges and 100mm apart from each other. Insert the bottom board into the box frame and fasten with 45mm coarse-thread screws to the four posts.

   Drill a hole

   φ20mm

   DrillSTEP 7 / 13

   Tip

   • Ventilation holes are crucial for shoe sole moisture escape; do not reduce their number.
   • Use a hole saw for neat holes; woodworking drills are acceptable.
   • Bottom side of bottom board is not visible from outside, so edge banding tape is unnecessary.

   Watch out

   • Warped bottom board does not contact posts properly; check flatness and if severely warped, install reversed and fasten with screws to correct.
   • Positioning holes too close to edges (less than 50mm) weakens strength.
8. 8

   Final Check of Right Angles and Diagonals

   ≈ 15 min

   After assembling the box frame, check right angles and diagonals. Use a carpenter's square to measure all four internal angles and confirm deviation from 90°. Measure the two diagonal lengths with a tape measure and ensure difference is within 2mm. If misaligned, loosen screws, clamp to adjust, then retighten.

   Inspect

   No wobble ✓

   InspectSTEP 8 / 13

   Tip

   • Diagonal difference indicates assembly error; within 2mm is acceptable for practical use.
   • Measurements must be done on a level surface; uneven floors distort results.
   • Check all screws for looseness by feel to avoid future instability.

   Watch out

   • Ignoring misalignment causes difficulty in opening and closing doors or lids.
   • Loose screws risk wobbling and collapsing under shoe load.
9. 9

   Painting Preparation and Sanding

   ≈ 15 min

   Lightly sand the entire surface with #240 sandpaper before painting, and remove dust with a damp cloth. Even out steps around screw heads and end grains. Use Watco Oil or Briwax which are easy for indoor use.

   Sand

   #240

   SandSTEP 9 / 13

   Tip

   • Cedar boards soak in paint heavily; plan for two coats.
   • Apply more paint on end grains as cut sections have exposed fibers.
   • Apply Watco Oil by rubbing with cloth for uniform finish better than brush application.

   Watch out

   • Rough sanding before painting causes paint unevenness and fuzziness.
   • Painting surfaces with residual dust results in rough texture.
10. 10

    First Coat of Paint

    ≈ 30 min

    Apply Watco Oil or water-based paint evenly over the entire surface. Use a brush or cloth to apply along the grain in one direction. Allow 15-20 minutes absorption, then wipe off excess with a dry cloth. Paint ventilation slit edges diagonally to avoid missing spots. Let dry for over 2 hours naturally.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 10 / 13

    Tip

    • Applying and wiping Watco Oil brings out wood grain texture beautifully.
    • Paint pooling in ventilation slits delays drying; wipe vigorously.
    • When indoors, ventilate well and open windows to dissipate fumes.

    Watch out

    • Forgetting to wipe leaves stickiness lasting several days; always wipe with a dry cloth.
    • Applying too thickly causes drying unevenness and later peeling; always apply thin coats twice.
11. 11

    Sanding Between Coats and Second Coat

    ≈ 25 min

    Once the first coat is dry, lightly scuff with #320 sandpaper (intermediate sanding). Remove dust, then apply the second coat more thinly than the first, wiping similarly. Allow 24 hours for full curing.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 11 / 13

    Tip

    • Intermediate sanding only smooths paint fuzz without removing film.
    • Two coats greatly enhance wood protection; do not skip.
    • Keep drying area dust free.

    Watch out

    • Excessive sanding can remove first coat paint film.
    • Skipping second coat halves protective effect, especially important in moist entrance areas.
12. 12

    Applying Leg Pads and Waterproofing

    ≈ 15 min

    Attach felt pads or non-slip rubber pads to the bottom ends of corner posts. Given the moisture in entrances, water-repellent rubber pads are recommended. For tile floors, silicone pads prevent slipping.

    Fix to the wall

    Anchor to studs

    InstallSTEP 12 / 13

    Tip

    • Felt pads absorb water and get dirty; rubber or silicone is recommended in entrances.
    • Pads are essential on all four corner posts; omitting center pads causes tilting.
    • After installation, observe for one week and continue ventilation until paint fumes dissipate.

    Watch out

    • No pads cause floor scratches and slipping on wet floors.
    • Some silicone pads have weak adhesion; commercially available products with strong double-sided tape provide security.
13. 13

    Final Inspection and Shoe Storage

    ≈ 15 min

    Check all screws are tight, ventilation slits are uniform, and paint finish is even. Use a level to check for wobbling; adjust pad thickness if necessary to level. Avoid placing heavy items for one week until paint fully cures. Store shoes only when dry.

    Done!

    Done — nice work!

    DoneSTEP 13 / 13

    Tip

    • Dry wet shoes fully on a door mat before storage to prevent moisture buildup.
    • Store shoes at about 80% capacity; overfilling blocks ventilation.
    • Monthly ventilation by emptying all shoes and drying with a fan prolongs furniture life.

    Watch out

    • Placing wet shoes before paint cures leaves shoe-shaped marks in paint film.
    • Overloading and forcing shoes in deforms boards.

Warnings

• ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.

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