Entrance storage
Umbrella Stand Storage
DIY blueprint for Umbrella Stand Storage.
Dimensions
Width (W)
700mm
Depth (D)
300mm
Height (H)
900mm
Cut list
Tools you'll need
- ✓
Measuring Tape (5m or more)
Used for measuring each component
- ✓
Pencil and Carpenter's Square
Marking and right angle confirmation
- ✓
Saw
Home center cutting service recommended
- ✓
Electric Driver
Impact driver improves work efficiency
- ✓
Sandpaper
Prepare two types: #120 and #240
- ✓
Level
Essential for confirming level during assembly
- ✓
Clamps (2 or more)
Used for temporary fixation during joining
- ✓
Brush and Paint Tray
Used for oil and varnish finishing
Materials
Build steps
- 1
Measure and Confirm Installation Location
≈ 15 minMeasure the installation space for the umbrella stand integrated storage (700×300×900mm). Confirm the entrance space width, ensure passage space of 600mm or more, and check the door's opening range.
MeasureW 700 mmMeasureSTEP 1 / 13Tip
- Place it so it does not obstruct the fan-shaped range when the entrance door opens
- Leave at least a 20mm gap between the wall and furniture for easy cleaning
- Avoid the boundary between entrance tiles and wooden flooring to prevent wobbling
Watch out
- If the entrance space is insufficient for 700mm width, installation is impossible. Pre-measurement is crucial
- Entrance is a high-traffic area; protruding placement at foot level poses a trip risk
- 2
Create Cut List for Components
≈ 30 minCut cedar boards 19mm thick into front and back boards (19×120×700mm) ×16 pieces, side boards (19×120×300mm) ×16 pieces. Bottom board is one sheet of Lauan plywood 12mm (12×262×662mm). Cut corner posts from 2×4 lumber (38×89×900mm) ×4 pieces. Use home center paid cutting service for convenience.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 2 / 13Tip
- Select cedar boards individually due to large variation in knots and warping
- 500mm length for corner posts accounts for total front and back side heights (120×4 =480) plus 20mm margin
- When using cutting service, specify aligning wood grain to improve appearance
Watch out
- Cedar board end grain absorbs water easily; apply protective material thoroughly afterward
- 2×4 lumber actual size is 38×89mm; state '38×89' explicitly when ordering cuts (nominal vs actual size differs)
- 3
Sanding All Components
≈ 40 minSand components sequentially with #120, then #240 sandpaper. Cedar boards are soft and prone to warping and splintering, so sand end grain and surfaces carefully. Chamfer edges of 2×4 lumber corner posts to smooth edges and avoid catching shoes or bumping feet.
Sand#120SandSTEP 3 / 13Tip
- Sand in the wood grain direction to avoid raised fibers and splintering
- Smooth end grain with #120 then #240 sandpaper; neglect here causes uneven paint
- Using an orbital sander reduces time by two thirds; rental services are available
Watch out
- Sanding produces a lot of dust; perform in ventilated areas like balcony or garage
- If dust is not removed before painting, surface will be rough; use air duster or damp cloth to clean
- 4
Stand Up and Temporarily Fix Corner Posts
≈ 25 minSet four 2×4 lumber posts vertically and arrange at four corners of the workbench. Temporarily fix with clamps to the bench top for levelness. Verify verticality with a level. Use measuring tape to confirm 600mm front-to-back and 300mm left-to-right interior spacing between posts.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 4 / 13Tip
- Check verticality on two sides (front and side) with a level aiming for zero deviation
- Uneven concrete or cushioned flooring necessitates placing plywood for flat workspace
- Align knots on all four posts in the same direction for better appearance when arranging
Watch out
- If even one post is not vertical, later front/back boards will be tilted
- Inconsistent measuring from inside or outside edges can cause 5-10mm dimension errors
- 5
Attach Front and Back Boards (Starting from Lower Level)
≈ 40 minPlace one cedar board horizontally at the lowest front position, apply wood glue on left and right corner posts, then secure with two coarse-thread screws (65mm) per side (4 screws total). From the second board onward, stack with 5mm ventilation slits (one chopstick width) in between. Among 10 total boards, place 5 on front and 5 on back.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 5 / 13Tip
- 5mm ventilation slits prevent shoe moisture buildup; tight fitting causes mold
- Use chopsticks to maintain uniform gaps
- Drill 4mm pilot holes on the post side before screwing to prevent wood cracking
Watch out
- Driving 65mm screws without pilot holes splits cedar boards; always pre-drill
- Overdriving screws causes surface dents; stop flush with the board surface
- 6
Attach Side Boards (Left and Right)
≈ 35 minAttach 16 side boards (19×120×300mm) similarly with ventilation slits for each side. Install 5 boards on each side. Adjust front and back board positions to align side board end grains perfectly at corners. Measure diagonal lengths and clamp until both diagonals are equal before proceeding.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 6 / 13Tip
- Unequal diagonal lengths distort into parallelograms; clamp to correct
- Side boards fit inside front/back boards; pilot holes shifted slightly from front/back board edges
- For cleaner corners, pre-cut corner lumber at 45 degrees before assembly
Watch out
- Ventilation slits not aligned with front/back boards result in uneven appearance
- Diagonal discrepancy over 5mm impedes smooth storage
- 7
Process and Install Bottom Board
≈ 25 minDrill nine φ20mm ventilation holes (3 vertical × 3 horizontal) evenly on 12mm Lauan plywood bottom board (262×562mm). Space holes at least 50mm from edges and 100mm apart. Insert bottom board into box bottom and fix to four posts with 45mm coarse-thread screws.
Drill a holeφ20mmDrillSTEP 7 / 13Tip
- Vent holes are vital to release moisture from shoes; do not reduce quantity
- Use hole saw for clean holes; wood drill bit acceptable
- Since bottom faces the floor and is not visible, end grain tape is unnecessary
Watch out
- Warped bottom board prevents close fitting to posts; check flatness and reverse direction or fix with screws to correct
- Placing vent holes too close to edges weakens strength; keep at least 50mm margin
- 8
Final Check for Right Angles and Diagonals
≈ 15 minVerify the assembled box for right angles and diagonal lengths. Use a carpenter's square to check all four internal angles for deviation from 90°. Measure two diagonals to confirm difference is within 2mm. If out of tolerance, loosen screws and use clamps to adjust before re-tightening.
InspectNo wobble ✓InspectSTEP 8 / 13Tip
- Diagonal difference indicates assembly precision; under 2mm is practically acceptable
- Check on level ground as uneven floor skews measurements
- Verify that no screws are loose by feeling them all manually
Watch out
- Ignoring distortion causes lid or door to malfunction later
- Loose screws lead to wobble and risk of collapse under shoe load
- 9
Sand and Prepare for Painting
≈ 15 minLightly sand entire piece with #240 sandpaper and remove dust with a damp cloth before painting. Smooth screw heads and end grain irregularities. Watco Oil or Briwax are recommended for indoor use.
Sand#240SandSTEP 9 / 13Tip
- Cedar boards absorb paint heavily; plan for two coats
- Apply more finish on end grain as fibers are exposed and absorbent
- Apply Watco Oil by rubbing with cloth for uniformity rather than brush
Watch out
- Coarse sanding leaves paint uneven and fuzzy
- Painting over dust causes rough surface
- 10
First Coat Painting
≈ 30 minApply Watco Oil or water-based paint over entire surface with brush or rag following wood grain in one direction. Let penetrate for 15–20 minutes, then wipe off excess with dry cloth. For ventilation slits, paint at diagonal angles to avoid missing spots. Allow to dry naturally for at least 2 hours.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 10 / 13Tip
- 'Apply then wipe' method enhances wood texture with Watco Oil
- Remove paint pooling in slits promptly to prevent slow drying
- Ensure good ventilation indoors and open windows to mitigate fumes
Watch out
- Failure to wipe off excess results in tackiness lasting several days
- Thick coats dry unevenly and may later peel; apply thin coats twice
- 11
Intermediate Sanding and Second Coat
≈ 25 minAfter first coat dries, lightly sand surface with #320 sandpaper (intermediate sanding). Remove dust, then apply second coat thinner than first, wiping off excess similarly. Allow 24 hours for full curing.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 11 / 13Tip
- Intermediate sanding removes fuzz without removing paint film
- Two coats greatly improve wood protection; do not skip
- Dry painted item in a dust-free place
Watch out
- Over-sanding during intermediate step peels first coat
- Skipping second coat halves protection, especially important in moist entrance areas
- 12
Apply Foot Pads and Waterproofing
≈ 15 minAttach felt pads or anti-slip rubber pads to bottom of corner posts. Use rubber pads with water repellency for moist entrance floors. Silicone pads recommended for tile to avoid slipping.
Fix to the wallAnchor to studsInstallSTEP 12 / 13Tip
- Felt absorbs water and soils; rubber or silicone preferable in entrance
- Pads must be on all four corner posts; central padding omitted causes tilt
- After installation, ventilate and monitor for one week until paint fumes dissipate
Watch out
- No pads risk scratching floor or slipping on wet surfaces
- Some silicone pads have weak adhesion; combine with strong double-sided tape for security
- 13
Final Check and Shoe Storage
≈ 15 minEnsure all screws are tight, ventilation slits uniform, and paint finish consistent. Use a level to check for wobble; adjust pad thickness to level if needed. Avoid placing heavy items for one week until paint fully cures. Store shoes dry.
Done!Done — nice work!DoneSTEP 13 / 13Tip
- Wipe wet shoes on mats before storing to prevent moisture buildup
- Store up to 80% of capacity for ideal ventilation
- Monthly airing by emptying all shoes and using fan to dry prolongs durability
Watch out
- Placing wet shoes before paint cures leaves shoe-shaped marks on finish
- Overfilling deforms boards due to forced pressure
Warnings
- ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.
Custom design
Changing the dimensions roughly scales the cut list. Get the precise calculation in the app.
Enter dimensions (mm)
Quick estimateWidth W
Depth D
Height H
Base size 700×300×900 mm
Cut list (preview)
Total board length ≈ 20.3 m · Available at: カインズ / コメリ / コーナン / DCM
Accurate materials, prices, and cuts in the app
Per-retailer pricing, purchase links, and optimal cut layouts are auto-calculated in the app.
Examples5 examples
View all →Actual cost
¥7,568
Build time
1 h 27 min
Home center
コーナン
週末を使って傘立て一体型収納を作りました。一人暮らしなので一人で組み立てられる構造に。ハードウッド (ウリン) を選択。重さと固さに作業中泣かされました。ベンチ機能と収納を兼ねた構造。腰掛けて靴が履けるのが地味に便利。塗料は食品衛生法適合品。子供がなめても大丈夫なものに統一。次は別のサイズで再チャレンジ予定です。
Actual cost
¥3,862
Build time
1 h 49 min
Home center
カインズ
傘立て一体型収納を自作しました。一人暮らしなので一人で組み立てられる構造に。メイン材は今回もイタウバ。雨ざらしでも 10 年は安心です。扉は隠し蝶番で見た目スッキリ。閉まったときの収まりが綺麗です。この作品で DIY のモチベがまた上がりました。
Actual cost
¥3,988
Build time
2 h 6 min
Home center
コメリ
気になっていた傘立て一体型収納にようやく挑戦。賃貸でも置けるサイズで設計してます。ベンチ機能と収納を兼ねた構造。腰掛けて靴が履けるのが地味に便利。結果には満足してます。
Actual cost
¥8,323
Build time
2 h 29 min
Home center
ロイヤルホームセンター
今回は傘立て一体型収納にトライ。賃貸でも置けるサイズで設計してます。メイン材は今回もイタウバ。雨ざらしでも 10 年は安心です。ベンチ機能と収納を兼ねた構造。腰掛けて靴が履けるのが地味に便利。ホームセンター店員さんに相談しながら進めたのが良かった。
Actual cost
¥4,697
Build time
1 h 29 min
Home center
ロイヤルホームセンター
今回は傘立て一体型収納にトライ。周りに何もない環境なので電動工具をフル活用。ベンチ機能と収納を兼ねた構造。腰掛けて靴が履けるのが地味に便利。結果には満足してます。
Ratings
Comments5
- 父子DIY_942026/04/26

棚板を可動式にしたいときはダボレールを差し込むだけで応用できそうです
- 板場メモ2026/04/26

壁付けにする場合は背板を入れたほうが安心かなと思います
- wood_diary_1202026/04/26

ダボ穴の位置をもう少し下げると、A4本も無理なく並べられそうですね
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