Planter stand
Planter Stand with Fence
DIY blueprint for Planter Stand with Fence.
Dimensions
Width (W)
800mm
Depth (D)
300mm
Height (H)
700mm
Cut list
Tools you'll need
- ✓
Measuring Tape (5m or longer)
Used for measuring each component.
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Pencil and Carpenter's Square
For marking and confirming right angles.
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Saw
Using a home center cutting service is recommended.
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Electric Screwdriver
Impact driver improves work efficiency.
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Sandpaper
Prepare two types: #120 and #240 grit.
- ✓
Level
Essential for checking horizontality during assembly.
- ✓
Clamps (2 or more)
Used for temporary fixing during joining.
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Brush and Paint Tray
Used for applying wood preservative.
Materials
Build steps
- 1
Measure and Confirm Installation Location
≈ 15 minMeasure the installation location for the planter stand with fence (800×300×700mm). Confirm the width of the installation space, secure a passage of at least 600mm, and check the door opening range.
MeasureW 800 mmMeasureSTEP 1 / 13Tip
- Do not place directly under rain gutters or over drainage.
- Leave at least a 20mm gap between the wall and furniture for easy cleaning.
- Avoid the boundary between wooden decks or soil and the ground to prevent instability.
Watch out
- If the installation space less than 800mm in width, installation is impossible. Pre-measurement is crucial.
- Outdoor locations often have many passersby; protruding parts pose a tripping risk.
- 2
Create Cut List for Parts
≈ 30 minCut cedar boards 19mm thick into front and back boards (19×120×800mm) ×12 pieces, side boards (19×120×300mm) ×12 pieces. Bottom board is lauan plywood 12mm (12×262×762mm) ×1 piece. Corner posts are 2x4 lumber (38×89×700mm) ×4 pieces. Using a paid cutting service at home centers is convenient.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 2 / 13Tip
- Individual cedar boards vary significantly in knots and warping; select each one by hand.
- The actual 700mm length of corner posts includes the height of front/back boards (120×4=480) plus a 20mm margin.
- When using cutting service, you can specify to align grain direction to improve appearance.
Watch out
- The end grain of cedar boards absorbs water easily; apply wood preservative thoroughly in later steps.
- Specify '38×89' for 2x4 lumber cuts as nominal and actual dimensions differ.
- 3
Sand All Parts
≈ 40 minSand with #120 then #240 grit sandpaper in order. Cedar boards are soft and prone to warping and splinters, so sand especially the end grains and surfaces carefully. Chamfer the 2x4 corner posts to make edges smooth and prevent tripping or bumping.
Sand#120SandSTEP 3 / 13Tip
- Cedar fibers are coarse; sand in the grain direction to avoid raising splinters.
- Plane end grain first with #120 grit then smooth with #240 grit; skipping this causes uneven paint finish.
- Using an orbital sander can reduce time to one-third; rental services may be available.
Watch out
- Sanding produces large amounts of dust; work outdoors like a balcony or garage with ventilation.
- If dust is not removed before painting, the surface will feel rough; use air duster or damp cloth to clean.
- 4
Set Up and Temporarily Fix Corner Posts
≈ 25 minStand the four 2x4 lumber posts vertically and place them at the four corners of the workbench. Temporarily fix them with clamps for horizontal alignment. Confirm verticality with a level. Measure the spacing between posts so that the internal dimensions are 600mm front to back and 300mm left to right using a measuring tape.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 4 / 13Tip
- Check verticality on two planes (front and side) aiming for zero deviation.
- Uneven concrete floors or cushioned vinyl may require laying plywood to create a flat work surface.
- Align knots on all four posts facing the same direction for better appearance.
Watch out
- If any post is not vertical, front/back and side boards will be tilted after assembly.
- Be consistent measuring either inside or outside of posts to avoid 5-10mm discrepancies in spacing.
- 5
Attach Front and Back Boards (from Bottom)
≈ 40 minPosition the first cedar board horizontally at the bottom front side. Apply wood glue to both corner posts and secure with two 65mm coarse-thread screws on each side (total four screws per board). For subsequent boards, stack them with a 5mm ventilation slit (the thickness of one chopstick) in between. Attach 5 boards to the front and 5 to the back, totaling 10 boards.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 5 / 13Tip
- The 5mm slit allows moisture from shoes to escape and prevents mold.
- Use chopsticks as spacers to maintain consistent gaps.
- Drill 4mm pilot holes near the corner posts before screwing to prevent splitting.
Watch out
- Driving 65mm screws without pilot holes causes cedar board splitting; always pre-drill.
- Screws driven too deep cause surface dents; stop flush with the board surface.
- 6
Attach Side Boards (Left and Right)
≈ 35 minAttach twelve side boards (19×120×300mm) on both sides in the same manner, maintaining ventilation slits. Attach five boards per side. Adjust front and back board positions so edges meet exactly at the corner. Measure the diagonal lengths (front corner to opposite back corner) with a tape measure and fix while ensuring both diagonals are equal to maintain squareness.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 6 / 13Tip
- Unequal diagonal lengths result in a parallelogram distortion; clamp and adjust until equal.
- Side boards are positioned inside the front and back boards; offset pilot hole positions slightly from the edges of front/back boards.
- For neater corners, miter the corner timber pieces at 45 degrees before fastening.
Watch out
- Misaligned ventilation slit positions between side and front/back boards look inconsistent.
- Diagonal length discrepancy over 5mm impedes smooth storage use.
- 7
Process and Attach Bottom Board
≈ 25 minDrill nine φ20mm ventilation holes evenly spaced in a 3x3 grid on the lauan plywood bottom board (262×562mm). Place holes at least 50mm from edges and 100mm between holes. Insert the bottom board into the bottom of the box frame and fix with 45mm coarse-thread screws to the four posts.
Drill a holeφ20mmDrillSTEP 7 / 13Tip
- Ventilation holes effectively release moisture from shoe soles; do not reduce number.
- Use a hole saw for neat drilling or a wood drill bit if unavailable.
- No edge tape is required on the ground-facing bottom board as it is not visible.
Watch out
- Warped bottom boards do not adhere firmly to posts; check flatness before fixing and reverse it if large warp exists then screw to correct.
- Too-close holes near the edge (less than 50mm) reduce strength.
- 8
Final Check of Right Angles and Diagonals
≈ 15 minCheck right angles (90°) of all four inner corners using a carpenter's square. Measure the two diagonals with a tape measure and confirm the difference is within 2mm. If misaligned, loosen screws and correct with clamps before retightening.
InspectNo wobble ✓InspectSTEP 8 / 13Tip
- Diagonal length difference indicates assembly error; within 2mm is practically acceptable.
- Perform measurements on a level surface to avoid inaccuracies.
- Check all screws are fully tightened by finger assessment.
Watch out
- Ignoring distortions results in difficulties opening/closing doors or lids later.
- Loose screws risk future wobbling or collapse under shoe loads.
- 9
Surface Preparation and Sanding Before Painting
≈ 15 minLightly sand the entire assembly with #240 grit sandpaper, then wipe off dust with a damp cloth. Smooth steps around screw heads and end grains. Suitable wood preservatives for outdoor use include Xyladecor and Osmo Color.
Sand#240SandSTEP 9 / 13Tip
- Cedar absorbs paint heavily; plan two coats.
- Apply more paint on end grains because cut surfaces expose wood fibers.
- Apply Xyladecor by rubbing with a cloth for evenness rather than brushing.
Watch out
- Coarse sanding before painting causes uneven paint and raised fibers.
- Painting over dust without cleaning leaves rough surface.
- 10
First Coat of Painting
≈ 30 minApply wood preservative (Xyladecor or water-based paint) thoroughly to all surfaces with a brush or cloth, brushing along the grain in one direction. Allow to penetrate for 15-20 minutes, then wipe excess off with a dry cloth. Paint ventilation slits by brushing diagonally to avoid missed spots. Let dry naturally for over two hours.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 10 / 13Tip
- The 'apply and wipe' Xyladecor method preserves the wood texture.
- Removing excess paint from ventilation slits speeds drying.
- During outdoor work, ensure ventilation to avoid inhaling vapors; open windows for airflow.
Watch out
- Failure to wipe leaves sticky residue for several days.
- Excessive thick coats cause uneven drying and peeling later; thin two coats are essential.
- 11
Intermediate Sanding and Second Coat of Painting
≈ 25 minAfter the first coat dries, lightly sand the surface with #320 grit sandpaper (intermediate sanding). Remove dust and apply the second coat more thinly than the first, wiping similarly. Allow 24 hours for full curing.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 11 / 13Tip
- Intermediate sanding targets paint fuzz only without removing the film.
- Two coats greatly improve wood preservative protection; do not skip.
- Dry in a dust-free place.
Watch out
- Excessive sanding removes the first coat paint film.
- Skipping the second coat halves preservative effectiveness, especially outdoors where moisture is high.
- 12
Attach Foot Pads and Waterproofing
≈ 15 minAttach felt pads or non-slip rubber pads to the bottom ends of the corner posts. If placed directly on the ground, elevate by about 10cm using bricks or blocks. On tile surfaces, silicone pads are recommended to prevent slipping.
Fix to the wallAnchor to studsInstallSTEP 12 / 13Tip
- Felt pads absorb water and become dirty; for outdoor use rubber or silicone is recommended.
- Pads are essential on all four corner posts; omitting center locations causes tilting.
- Ventilate continuously for a week after installation until paint odor dissipates.
Watch out
- No pads cause floor scratches and slipping when wet.
- Some silicone pads have weak adhesion; use commercially available pads with strong double-sided tape for security.
- 13
Final Inspection and Shoe Storage
≈ 15 minCheck all screws are tight, ventilation slits are uniform, and paint finish is even. Use a level to check stability; adjust pad thickness if needed for horizontality. Avoid placing heavy objects for one week until paint fully cures. Store dry shoes.
Done!Done — nice work!DoneSTEP 13 / 13Tip
- Wipe wet shoes before storage to prevent moisture buildup.
- Store shoes to about 80% capacity; overcrowding blocks ventilation.
- Monthly ventilation by emptying all shoes and drying with a fan prolongs life.
Watch out
- Placing wet shoes before paint curing leaves shoe-shaped marks on the finish.
- Forcing excess shoes distorts boards.
Warnings
- ⚠️If used outdoors, wood preservative coating is essential (reapply annually recommended).
- ⚠️Use stainless steel screws (iron screws will rust).
- ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.
Custom design
Changing the dimensions roughly scales the cut list. Get the precise calculation in the app.
Enter dimensions (mm)
Quick estimateWidth W
Depth D
Height H
Base size 800×300×700 mm
Cut list (preview)
Total board length ≈ 16.8 m · Available at: カインズ / コメリ / コーナン / DCM
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Comments4
- Kenji2026/04/26

野菜栽培用なら塗料は食品衛生法適合のものに限定したいところ
- sho_iemori2026/04/26

庭が狭いので背の高いプランターを探してました
- Soma 週末DIY2026/04/26

プランターはハードウッドより SPF + 防腐塗装のほうがコスパいいです
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