Wall-Mounted Entryway Storage

Dimensions

Cut list

Tools you'll need

• ✓

  Tape measure (5m or longer)

  Used for measuring all parts.

• ✓

  Pencil and carpenter's square

  For marking lines and verifying right angles.

• ✓

  Saw

  Using the home center's cutting service is recommended.

• ✓

  Electric screwdriver

  An impact driver improves work efficiency.

• ✓

  Sandpaper

  Prepare #120 and #240 grit.

• ✓

  Level

  Essential for checking horizontal alignment during assembly.

• ✓

  Clamps (2 or more)

  Used for temporary fixing during joining.

• ✓

  Brush and paint tray

  Used for oil and varnish finishing.

Materials

Build steps

1. 1

   Measure and Confirm Installation Location

   ≈ 15 min

   Measure the location where the wall-mounted entryway storage (800×150×800mm) will be installed. Check the entryway width, ensure a walkway space of at least 600mm, and verify the door’s swing range.

   Measure

   W 800 mm

   MeasureSTEP 1 / 13

   Tip

   • Position so it does not block the door’s arc when opened.
   • Leave at least a 20mm gap between the wall and furniture for easier cleaning.
   • Avoid placing on the boundary between the entryway tile and wooden flooring to prevent wobbling.

   Watch out

   • Cannot install if entryway width is less than 800mm; accurate pre-measurement is essential.
   • Avoid protrusions at foot level in entryways used by many people to reduce fall risk.
2. 2

   Create Cut List for Parts

   ≈ 30 min

   Cut 19mm thick cedar into front and back boards (19×120×800mm)×10 pieces, side boards (19×120×150mm)×10 pieces. Bottom board from 12mm luan plywood (12×112×762mm)×1 piece. Corner posts are 2x4 lumber cut to (38×89×800mm)×4 pieces. Using the home center’s paid cutting service is convenient.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 2 / 13

   Tip

   • Select cedar boards carefully as knots and warping vary significantly.
   • The 500mm length for corner posts includes the height of four stacked boards (120×4=480mm) plus 20mm allowance.
   • When using cutting service, specify grain alignment for better aesthetics.

   Watch out

   • Cut ends of cedar boards absorb water easily; apply protective finish thoroughly at this stage.
   • The nominal size 2x4 lumber’s actual dimension is 38×89mm; specify '38×89' when ordering cuts.
3. 3

   Sand All Parts

   ≈ 40 min

   Sand parts in order from #120 to #240 grit sandpaper. Cedar is soft and prone to warping and splinters, so pay careful attention to end grain and surfaces. Chamfer edges of 2x4 corner posts to smooth and prevent shoes from catching or injuries.

   Sand

   #120

   SandSTEP 3 / 13

   Tip

   • Sand along the grain to avoid splintering due to coarse fibers of cedar.
   • Use #120 grit first on end grain to flatten, then #240 grit; skipping this causes uneven finish when painting.
   • Using an orbital sander reduces sanding time to one-third; consider rental services.

   Watch out

   • Sanding produces a lot of dust; perform in well ventilated areas like balcony or garage.
   • If dust is not removed before painting, the surface will be rough. Use compressed air or a damp cloth for dust removal.
4. 4

   Set Up and Temporarily Fix Corner Posts

   ≈ 25 min

   Stand four 2x4 corner posts vertically and arrange them at the four corners of the workbench. Temporarily fix with clamps to the workbench ensuring top and bottom are level. Use a level to check verticality. Measure inner spacing between posts; front to back 600mm, side to side 300mm.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 4 / 13

   Tip

   • Check verticality on two faces (front and side) so both read zero with the level.
   • Floor surfaces like concrete or cushioned flooring can be uneven; place plywood to create a flat work surface.
   • Align knots on all posts facing the same direction for better appearance by rotating them when placing.

   Watch out

   • If even one post is not vertical, the front and side boards will be tilted on completion.
   • When measuring spacing, choose to measure either inside or outside edges uniformly to avoid 5-10mm discrepancies.
5. 5

   Attach Front and Back Boards (Starting from Bottom)

   ≈ 40 min

   Place the first cedar board horizontally at the lowest front position. Apply wood glue to both corner posts and fix with coarse-thread screws 65mm, using two screws per side (four per board). For subsequent boards, leave a 5mm ventilation slot (about the thickness of one disposable chopstick) between them while stacking. Attach 5 boards to the front and 5 boards to the back for a total of 10.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 5 / 13

   Tip

   • The 5mm ventilation slot helps prevent moisture accumulation inside from shoes.
   • Use chopsticks as spacers to create even gaps.
   • Drill 4mm diameter pilot holes on the corner post side before screwing to avoid wood splitting.

   Watch out

   • Driving 65mm screws without pilot holes may crack cedar boards, so always drill pilot holes.
   • Overdriving screws causes indentations on the surface; stop flush with the board surface.
6. 6

   Attach Side Boards (Both Sides)

   ≈ 35 min

   Attach both side boards (19×120×150mm)×10 pieces similarly with ventilation slots, 5 boards per side. Adjust the positions of front and back boards first so the cut ends meet precisely at the corners. Use a tape measure to check diagonal lengths and adjust so both diagonals are equal as you proceed.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 6 / 13

   Tip

   • Unequal diagonals cause parallelogram distortion; adjust with clamps until equal.
   • Side boards are positioned inside the front and back boards; offset pilot hole positions slightly from the edge of front and back boards.
   • If corner alignment seems problematic, pre-cut 45-degree angles on corner boards before fastening for a neater finish.

   Watch out

   • Ventilation slot positions on side boards must match those on front and back boards for consistent appearance.
   • If diagonal difference exceeds 5mm, stored items will not fit smoothly.
7. 7

   Process and Install Bottom Board

   ≈ 25 min

   On the 12mm luan plywood bottom board (262×562mm), drill nine ventilation holes (three vertically by three horizontally) evenly using a 20mm diameter drill bit. Ensure hole edges are at least 50mm from board edges and holes are spaced at least 100mm apart. Slide the bottom board into the box bottom and secure with coarse-thread screws (45mm) to the four posts.

   Drill a hole

   下穴 φ3.5mm

   DrillSTEP 7 / 13

   Tip

   • Ventilation holes are important to allow moisture from the soles of shoes to escape; do not reduce the number.
   • Use a hole saw for neat holes; a wood drill bit also works.
   • No edge tape is required on the underside since it is not visible.

   Watch out

   • Warped bottom boards do not fit tightly against posts; check flatness first and if warped, reverse direction and tighten screws to correct.
   • Placing holes too close to edges weakens board strength; maintain minimum 50mm distance.
8. 8

   Final Check of Right Angles and Diagonals

   ≈ 15 min

   Confirm right angles and diagonals of the assembled box. Use a carpenter's square to measure the four interior angles and check deviations from 90 degrees. Measure both diagonals with a tape measure and ensure difference is within 2mm. If misaligned, loosen screws, adjust with clamps, then re-tighten.

   Inspect

   No wobble ✓

   InspectSTEP 8 / 13

   Tip

   • Diagonal difference is an indicator of assembly error; under 2mm is acceptable for practical use.
   • Check on a level surface to avoid false readings.
   • Run your hand over all screws to verify none are loose or improperly seated.

   Watch out

   • Ignoring distortion will cause doors or lids to not open or close smoothly.
   • Loose screws risk wobbling or collapse under shoe weight later.
9. 9

   Prepare Surface and Light Sanding Before Finishing

   ≈ 15 min

   Lightly sand the entire surface with #240 grit sandpaper before painting and remove dust with a damp cloth. Level any steps around screw heads and end grain. Watco Oil or Briwax are user-friendly for indoor finishing.

   Sand

   #240

   SandSTEP 9 / 13

   Tip

   • Cedar absorbs finish heavily; plan for two coats.
   • Apply more finish to end grain due to exposed fibers which absorb finish easily.
   • Apply Watco Oil by rubbing with a cloth for even application rather than using a brush.

   Watch out

   • Coarse sanding before finishing causes uneven coloration and rough surface.
   • Failing to remove dust before finishing will produce a rough texture.
10. 10

    First Coat of Finish

    ≈ 30 min

    Apply Watco Oil or water-based paint to all surfaces using a brush or cloth, painting in the direction of the grain. Allow to penetrate for 15-20 minutes, then wipe off excess with a dry cloth. Use a brush at a slant for ventilation slots to prevent missed spots. Allow to dry naturally for more than 2 hours.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 10 / 13

    Tip

    • The apply-then-wipe method brings out the wood texture effectively.
    • Remove finish build-up in ventilation slots to speed drying.
    • Ensure good ventilation indoors by opening windows to reduce volatile organic compounds.

    Watch out

    • Not wiping excess leaves a sticky residue for several days.
    • Thick coats cause uneven drying and may lead to peeling later; maintain thin coats in two applications.
11. 11

    Intermediate Sanding and Second Coat

    ≈ 25 min

    After the first coat dries, lightly sand the surface with #320 grit sandpaper (intermediate sanding). Remove dust and apply a second thinner coat similarly, wiping off excess. Allow 24 hours to fully cure.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 11 / 13

    Tip

    • Intermediate sanding smooths raised fibers without damaging the coating.
    • Completing two coats greatly improves wood protection; do not skip.
    • Keep drying area dust-free.

    Watch out

    • Excessive sanding during intermediate sanding may remove the first coat.
    • Skipping the second coat halves the protection effect, especially important for entryways exposed to moisture.
12. 12

    Attach Foot Pads and Waterproofing Measures

    ≈ 15 min

    Attach felt pads or anti-slip rubber pads to the bottom ends of corner posts. Rubber pads with water-repellent properties are recommended due to moisture in entryways. Silicone pads are advisable when placing on tile surfaces to prevent slipping.

    Fix to the wall

    Anchor to studs

    InstallSTEP 12 / 13

    Tip

    • Felt pads absorb water and become dirty, so rubber or silicone is preferred for entryways.
    • Pads are essential under all four corner posts; omitting the center may cause tilting.
    • Ventilate for one week after placement to dissipate finish odors.

    Watch out

    • No pads can cause floor scratches and slipping on wet floors.
    • Some silicone pads have weak adhesive; using strong double-sided tape for commercial pads is recommended.
13. 13

    Final Inspection and Shoe Storage

    ≈ 15 min

    Check all screws are tightened, ventilation slots are evenly spaced, and there are no finish unevenness issues. Use a level to check for wobble; adjust pad thickness if needed to level. Avoid placing heavy objects for one week until finish fully cures. Store shoes dry.

    Done!

    Done — nice work!

    DoneSTEP 13 / 13

    Tip

    • Dry wet shoes thoroughly on entry mats before storing to prevent moisture buildup.
    • Store shoes up to 80% capacity to maintain ventilation.
    • Monthly ventilation by removing all shoes and drying with a fan extends durability.

    Watch out

    • Placing wet shoes on uncured finish causes shoe-shaped marks.
    • Overfilling causes board deformation from forced loading.

Warnings

• ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.
• ⚠️When securing to the wall, always locate a stud; do not attach solely to drywall.

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