Wall-Style TV Stand

Dimensions

Cut list

Tools you'll need

• ✓

  Measuring Tape (5m or longer)

  Used to measure all materials.

• ✓

  Pencil and Carpenter's Square

  For marking lines and confirming right angles.

• ✓

  Handsaw

  Using a home center's cutting service is recommended.

• ✓

  Electric Screwdriver

  Impact driver increases work efficiency.

• ✓

  Sandpaper

  Prepare two types: #120 and #240.

• ✓

  Level

  Essential for checking level during assembly.

• ✓

  Clamps (2 or more)

  Used for temporary securing during joining.

• ✓

  Brush and Paint Tray

  Used for oil or varnish finishing.

Materials

Build steps

1. 1

   Measurement and Installation Location Check

   ≈ 15 min

   Measure the installation location of the TV stand and confirm that the wall-mounted style TV stand (1500×400×350mm) fits. Also check outlet locations, wiring routes, and TV stand shape.

   Measure

   W 1500 mm

   MeasureSTEP 1 / 17

   Tip

   • Ideal clearance is TV stand width plus 100mm on each side; consider central reinforcement of the top board if wall-mounted.
   • Choose a location with at least 50mm gap from the wall for front-to-back ventilation.
   • If the floor is carpeted, allow for placing a hard board underneath to prevent wobbling caused by legs sinking.

   Watch out

   • If the TV stand's depth of 400mm is smaller than the TV stand width, the front may protrude dangerously. Measure the bottom of the TV box before purchase as a rule.
   • If storing an AV amplifier or soundbar, confirm whether the shelf inner dimensions (W1164×D390×H328mm) can accommodate the devices.
2. 2

   Creating Cut List and Ordering from Home Center

   ≈ 30 min

   From an 18mm Lauan plywood 1x6 sheet, cut out two each of the top and bottom boards (18×400×1200), two side boards (18×400×364), and one shelf board (18×390×1164). The back board is 4mm plywood (1200×400)×1. Since plywood sheets are heavy and large, using the home center's cutting service is recommended.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 2 / 17

   Tip

   • The home center cutting service charges 30-50 yen per cut with ±1mm accuracy.
   • The wood grain direction looks better when horizontal from the front; specify accordingly when ordering.
   • The side boards length of 364mm includes the thickness of two top/bottom boards (18mm each) already calculated; just convey as is.

   Watch out

   • If plywood thickness is not 18mm (e.g. 12mm, 15mm, 21mm), the calculation for side board length changes; confirm exact thickness before ordering.
   • Cutting service only does straight cuts; wiring holes and edge chamfers must be done by yourself.
3. 3

   Applying Edge Banding Tape

   ≈ 25 min

   Because the plywood edges are rough compared to the finished surfaces, apply edge banding tape with an iron. Treat visible edges—front, back, left, right ends of top and bottom boards, front ends of side boards and shelf board. Use a medium heat iron (~150℃), pressing for 3-5 seconds.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 3 / 17

   Tip

   • Edge banding tape adheres by melting resin with heat; pressing with a cloth while still warm improves adhesion.
   • Trim excess tape gently with a cutter in 2-3 passes for natural finish.
   • Back board (4mm plywood) edges are not visible and do not need edge banding.

   Watch out

   • Do not move the iron constantly; pause for 3 seconds per spot before moving for proper heat transfer.
   • Too high heat burns the tape and changes color; test temperature on leftover tape first.
4. 4

   Sanding All Materials

   ≈ 30 min

   Sand all materials in order from #180 to #240 grit sandpaper. Plywood surfaces are already smooth, so only lightly sand. Lightly chamfer edges with #240 to avoid sharpness and sand edge banding tape ends gently.

   Sand

   #180

   SandSTEP 4 / 17

   Tip

   • Sand along the grain. Sanding against the grain raises fibers causing uneven paint.
   • Edge chamfering should feel smooth like 'rubbing tissue paper without catching'.
   • Using a sander near a vacuum nozzle reduces dust and makes indoor work more bearable.

   Watch out

   • Plywood surface veneer is thin (0.2-0.5mm); sanding too hard exposes gray base layer.
   • Sanding produces lots of dust; perform in a well-ventilated area such as balcony or garage.
5. 5

   Marking Shelf Board Position on Side Boards

   ≈ 20 min

   Mark the shelf board fixing position on both side boards. Draw a horizontal line 200mm from the bottom edge of the side boards (this line indicates the top of the shelf board). Ensure symmetry by measuring identically on both side boards. Mark pilot hole positions for shelf board thickness center line (9mm from the edge) using a carpenter's square and pencil.

   Mark a line

   Use a try square

   MarkSTEP 5 / 17

   Tip

   • Stack two side boards; mark one and transfer with a punch for perfect alignment.
   • Shelf height can be adjusted; add about 50mm for AV amplifier height.
   • Pilot holes for screws should be at the center of side board thickness (9mm from edge); misalignment causes shelf board to shift.

   Watch out

   • If heights differ between side boards, the shelf will be tilted; don't forget stacking and transferring marks.
   • Pencil lines can be visible after painting; draw lightly to erase after assembly.
6. 6

   Drilling Pilot Holes for Shelf Board and Side Boards

   ≈ 25 min

   Drill pilot holes (φ3.5mm) on the ends of the shelf board for fixing the side boards: 2 holes per side, total 4. On the marked positions on side boards, drill through pilot holes with φ3.5mm and countersink (φ8mm×3mm deep) on the front side. Though plywood rarely splits, be cautious for holes near edges.

   Drill a hole

   φ3.5mm

   DrillSTEP 6 / 17

   Tip

   • Countersinking screw heads flush gives neat finish.
   • Use drill stopper for depth control; about board thickness minus 2mm.
   • Clamp wood firmly before drilling holes near edges to avoid splitting.

   Watch out

   • Screwing closer than 10mm to edges risks splitting; stay on pilot hole center (9mm).
   • Drill straight down vertical to avoid protrusion on opposite side.
7. 7

   Temporary Assembly of Bottom Board and Side Boards

   ≈ 30 min

   Place the bottom board on the floor and stand the two side boards on it, aligning the bottom edge of side boards with the bottom board edge. Apply a thin layer of wood glue, then drill pilot holes (φ3.5mm) from the bottom board side and insert three coarse-thread 38mm screws per side (6 total). Confirm right angles with carpenter's square during assembly.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 7 / 17

   Tip

   • Apply wood glue thinly like one toothpick's width and wipe any excess with damp cloth immediately.
   • Clamp side boards temporarily before drilling for stability.
   • Check bottom board level with level to avoid warped assembly.

   Watch out

   • Applying too much glue causes squeeze-out that prevents painting.
   • Screwing without pilot holes can split plywood; always pre-drill.
8. 8

   Installing the Shelf Board

   ≈ 20 min

   Insert the 1164mm shelf board into the marked position, aligning edges with the side boards. Apply wood glue, drill pilot holes (φ3.5mm) from side boards exterior, and screw in two coarse-thread 38mm screws per side (4 total). Confirm shelf board is level with a level.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 8 / 17

   Tip

   • Confirm shelf board length equals top board width 1500mm minus two side board thicknesses (18mm×2) before proceeding.
   • Screw heads are hidden inside the cabinet so countersinking is not necessary.
   • If installing adjustable shelf pins, drill multiple φ5mm holes here.

   Watch out

   • Shelf board too short causes looseness; too long causes side board bulging. Double-check cut length.
   • Non-level shelf causes remote controls or small items to roll off; always check level.
9. 9

   Installing the Top Board

   ≈ 25 min

   Place the top board (1200mm width) on the cabinet body, aligning with the top edges of side boards. Drill pilot holes (φ3.5mm) from top board side and insert six coarse-thread 38mm screws (three per side). Screw heads are countersunk and concealed, and you can fill holes with wooden dowels or wood putty for improved finish.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 9 / 17

   Tip

   • The top board bears TV weight; increasing screws to eight total (four each side) improves load capacity.
   • Filling countersink holes with φ9mm wooden dowels hides joints; after painting, they become completely unnoticeable.
   • For very heavy TVs (over 30kg), add internal reinforcement 1x2 lumber underneath the top board central area.

   Watch out

   • Installing the top board backwards reverses wood grain directions causing aesthetic mismatch.
   • 38mm screws are ideal for 18mm thick top board; longer screws risk going through the shelf board below.
10. 10

    Check for Right Angles and Diagonal Lengths

    ≈ 15 min

    Confirm right angles of the entire cabinet. Use a carpenter's square on all four interior corners to check for 90 degrees. Measure the two diagonal lengths (interior) with a tape measure; they should be equal within 2mm. If not square, loosen screws, clamp to square the frame, then retighten.

    Inspect

    No wobble ✓

    InspectSTEP 10 / 17

    Tip

    • If diagonal difference is over 5mm, distortion is too large and the back board won't fit properly; correct it.
    • Clamping the entire box diagonally helps achieve right angles easier.
    • Widening pilot holes to φ4mm provides some play for adjustment.

    Watch out

    • Leaving distortion at this stage causes large gaps when attaching the back board.
    • Use reliable metal carpenter's squares (aluminum or steel); plastic ones have large errors.
11. 11

    Installing the Back Board

    ≈ 15 min

    Attach the 4mm plywood back board (1500×350mm) on the rear side, fixing with staples or thin screws (φ3×20mm) around the edges and center. Use staples every 30mm spacing and screws every 100mm. The back board also fixes the cabinet's squareness, eliminating most distortion.

    Build the frame

    Check for square

    AssembleSTEP 11 / 17

    Tip

    • If distortion was detected previously, clamp and correct before fixing back board.
    • Stapler tools (tackers) are faster than screws. They drive thin, narrow staples.
    • Orient back board grain horizontally for a neat TV stand look.

    Watch out

    • Ensure proper front and back; wood grain and color differ.
    • Staple points may protrude if poorly driven; check backside by hand after work.
12. 12

    Drilling Wiring Holes (If Needed)

    ≈ 15 min

    Drill holes in the back board with a hole saw (φ50mm) for power cords, HDMI cables, and antenna cables. Position the hole directly behind the TV's connection ports. If no hole saw is available, drill multiple holes and connect with a coping saw.

    Drill a hole

    φ50mm

    DrillSTEP 12 / 17

    Tip

    • Applying edge banding tape on hole edges prevents finger injury and protects cable insulation.
    • Confirm TV connector layout before selecting hole position for straight cable routing.
    • Align hole height with power outlet for neat appearance.

    Watch out

    • Incorrect hole position prevents neat cable access from behind the TV; mark after temporarily placing TV.
    • Hole saw slipping peels plywood surface; ensure the center drill bit engages firmly.
13. 13

    Paint Preparation

    ≈ 15 min

    Before painting, lightly sand entire surface with #240 sandpaper, then wipe thoroughly with a damp cloth followed by dry cloth to remove dust. Remove any excess glue or burrs around screw holes. Watco Oil, Briwax, or water-based paints are easy to use indoors.

    Sand

    #240

    SandSTEP 13 / 17

    Tip

    • Always do test painting on scraps before application since plywood absorbs differently than solid wood.
    • Water-based paints can be cleaned with water; recommended for beginners.
    • Watco Oil offers a natural finish showing wood texture; apply by rubbing with cloth.

    Watch out

    • Glue residue repels paint; always lightly sand glue spots before painting.
    • Painting over dust causes rough surfaces; clean meticulously before painting.
14. 14

    First Coat Painting

    ≈ 30 min

    Apply the paint evenly with a brush or rag over all surfaces in order: top board, side boards, bottom board, back board. Paint along the grain in one direction to avoid brush marks. Apply thin, uniform coats. Let dry naturally for at least two hours.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 14 / 17

    Tip

    • Use small amounts of paint at a time; leaving paint can open forms unusable skin.
    • If brushing marks bother you, use a roller brush designed for flat surfaces.
    • Place items in dust-free areas during drying; avoid airflow from fans.

    Watch out

    • Applying thick coats causes uneven drying and later peeling; always apply two thin coats.
    • Drying with direct heater airflow dries surface only leaving underlying wet areas; wait for natural drying.
15. 15

    Intermediate Sanding and Second Coat Painting

    ≈ 25 min

    When the first coat is fully dry, lightly sand surface with #320 sandpaper (intermediate sanding) to remove roughness. Remove dust and apply a second coat thinner than the first for smoother finish. Allow at least 24 hours drying time.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 15 / 17

    Tip

    • Intermediate sanding removes surface roughness, not sanding away the paint.
    • Always apply the second coat thinly to prevent drips.
    • Avoid touching before complete drying to prevent fingerprints or dust marks; follow full 24-hour drying.

    Watch out

    • Heavy sanding removes first paint coat; light #320 is key.
    • Thick second coats extend drying time, delaying next steps.
16. 16

    Attaching Foot Pads and Anti-Tip Hardware

    ≈ 20 min

    Attach felt pads to the feet bottoms to prevent floor scratches and wobbling. For earthquake safety, fix anti-tip straps or brackets on the upper rear. Fixing to the wall with screws into studs is the safest method against tipping in major earthquakes.

    Fix to the wall

    Anchor to studs

    InstallSTEP 16 / 17

    Tip

    • Felt pads cost about 50 yen at home centers; 10mm thickness absorbs floor unevenness well.
    • Anti-tip straps are available cheaply; specialized TV stand ones provide better security.
    • Wall anchoring must match wall studs; drywall only does not hold.

    Watch out

    • Skipping felt pads causes scratches on hardwood flooring.
    • Omitting anti-tip measures risks TV stand toppling over in strong earthquakes, damaging the TV.
17. 17

    Final Check and Installation

    ≈ 20 min

    Move the completed TV stand to its installation location and use a level to confirm front-to-back and side-to-side level. Adjust wobbling with felt pads. Place the TV, route cables, and confirm power and operation. Only place lightweight items for the first day and wait one week for full paint curing before regular use.

    Done!

    Done — nice work!

    DoneSTEP 17 / 17

    Tip

    • Place the TV centered on the top board so weight is evenly distributed; avoid placing at edges to prevent distortion.
    • Route cables through the back board hole and secure them with cable ties for neatness.
    • Allow at least 50mm front-to-back ventilation space for AV equipment on shelves.

    Watch out

    • Paint requires one week for complete curing; placing remotes or devices immediately may cause stickiness.
    • Homes with sloping floors require different thickness felt pads side-to-side to achieve level.

Warnings

• ⚠️Drill pilot holes before inserting screws to prevent wood splitting.
• ⚠️When fixing to a wall, be sure to locate studs (do not fix to drywall only).

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