TV Stand with Drawers

Dimensions

Cut list

Tools you'll need

• ✓

  Measuring Tape (5m or longer)

  Used for measuring each component

• ✓

  Pencil and Carpenter's Square

  For marking layout lines and checking right angles

• ✓

  Handsaw

  Home center cutting service recommended

• ✓

  Electric Driver

  Using an impact driver improves work efficiency

• ✓

  Sandpaper

  Prepare two types: #120 and #240

• ✓

  Level

  Essential for checking horizontal alignment during assembly

• ✓

  Clamp (at least 2)

  Used for temporary fixation during joining

• ✓

  Brush and Paint Tray

  Used for oil or varnish finish

Materials

Build steps

1. 1

   Measure and Confirm Installation Location

   ≈ 15 min

   Measure the location where the TV stand will be placed to ensure the TV stand with drawers (1200×450×450mm) fits. Also check the power outlet position, wiring paths, and TV stand shape.

   Measure

   W 1200 mm

   MeasureSTEP 1 / 17

   Tip

   • Ideal clearance is TV stand width plus 100mm on each side. If wall-mounted TV, consider reinforcing the center of the top board.
   • Choose a location allowing at least 50mm space from the wall for front/back ventilation.
   • If the floor is carpeted, plan to place a hard board underneath to prevent legs from sinking and causing wobble.

   Watch out

   • If the TV stand depth (450mm) is too small for the TV stand size, the front may protrude, causing a hazard. Always measure the bottom dimensions of the TV box before purchase.
   • If storing AV amplifier or sound bar, confirm if they fit inside the shelf's internal dimensions (W1164×D390×H328mm) beforehand.
2. 2

   Create Cut List and Order at Home Center

   ≈ 30 min

   Cut the Lauan plywood 18mm (1x6 feet board) into top and bottom boards (18×400×1200) x2, side boards (18×400×364) x2, and shelf board (18×390×1164) x1. Back board is veneer plywood 4mm (1200×400) x1. Since plywood sheets are large and heavy, using home center cut service is recommended.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 2 / 17

   Tip

   • Home center cut services cost 30-50 yen per cut and can cut with ±1mm accuracy.
   • The wood grain direction is aesthetically best when horizontal from the front; specify this at ordering.
   • Side board length 364mm includes thickness of top and bottom boards (18mm x 2) in internal dimension calculation. Provide this length as is.

   Watch out

   • If plywood thickness is not 18mm (e.g. 12mm / 15mm / 21mm), side board length calculation changes. Confirm actual thickness before ordering.
   • Cut service only does straight cuts; holes for wiring and chamfering must be done by yourself.
3. 3

   Apply Edge Banding Tape

   ≈ 25 min

   The cut edges of plywood are rough compared to finished surfaces, so apply edge banding tape with an iron. Treat only visible edges: front, back, left, and right edges of top and bottom boards; front edge of side boards; front edge of shelf board. Use medium heat (about 150°C) and press for 3-5 seconds.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 3 / 17

   Tip

   • Edge banding tape adheres as the resin melts with heat. Press with a cloth before the tape cools for better adhesion.
   • Trim overhanging parts with a cutter using gradual cuts in 2-3 passes for a natural finish.
   • No need to apply tape on edges of 4mm veneer back board as it is not visible.

   Watch out

   • Moving the iron continuously prevents heat penetration. Hold iron stationary for about 3 seconds per area, then move.
   • Too high temperature causes tape scorching and discoloration. Test temperature on leftover tape first.
4. 4

   Sand All Components

   ≈ 30 min

   Sand all components sequentially with #180 then #240 sandpaper. The plywood surface is already smooth, so a light touch is sufficient. Lightly chamfer edges with #240 sandpaper to avoid sharpness. Also gently finish edges of edge banding tape.

   Sand

   #180

   SandSTEP 4 / 17

   Tip

   • Sand along the wood grain. Sanding against the grain causes raised fibers and uneven paint.
   • Chamfer edges until they feel smooth even when running a tissue over.
   • Use a vacuum nozzle near sander to reduce dust and enable indoor work.

   Watch out

   • The plywood veneer layer is thin (0.2-0.5mm); sanding too aggressively exposes gray base.
   • Sanding produces large amounts of dust. Perform outdoors or in a garage with ventilation.
5. 5

   Mark Shelf Board Position on Side Boards

   ≈ 20 min

   Mark the shelf fixing position on both side boards by drawing a horizontal line 200mm up from the bottom edge (this represents the top surface of the shelf board). Take identical measurements on both side boards maintaining vertical symmetry. Use a carpenter's square and pencil to draw lines and mark pilot hole positions (center line at 9mm from the edge, the shelf board thickness center).

   Mark a line

   Use a try square

   MarkSTEP 5 / 17

   Tip

   • Stack both side boards, mark one, then transfer marks with a punch on the other for perfect alignment.
   • Shelf board position can be adjusted; approx. 50mm above AV amplifier height is recommended.
   • Pilot holes center line is 9mm from edge (half of 18mm thickness). Avoid deviation to prevent misalignment.

   Watch out

   • Differing heights on side boards cause shelf board tilt; forget not to transfer marks on both boards stacked.
   • Pencil marks may remain visible after painting; draw lightly to erase after assembly.
6. 6

   Drill Pilot Holes for Shelf Board and Side Boards

   ≈ 25 min

   Drill pilot holes (φ3.5mm) at 2 positions on each end of the shelf board edge for side board fixing (4 total). Also drill pilot holes through the side board mark lines (φ3.5mm), countersink on front side (φ8mm×3mm depth). Although plywood rarely splits, pilot holes close to edges need caution.

   Drill a hole

   φ3.5mm

   DrillSTEP 6 / 17

   Tip

   • Countersinking screw heads flush gives a neat finish.
   • Use drill stopper to control depth preventing breakthrough; aim for board thickness minus 2mm.
   • Always clamp shelf board when drilling holes at the edge to prevent splitting.

   Watch out

   • Driving screws within 10mm of the edge risks edge splitting; keep center line at 9mm intact.
   • Drill must be perpendicular; angled drilling causes protrusion on opposite side.
7. 7

   Temporary Assembly of Bottom Board and Side Boards

   ≈ 30 min

   Place the bottom board on the floor, and stand the two side boards on top aligning their bottom edges with the bottom board edges. Apply a thin layer of wood glue, then drill φ3.5mm pilot holes from bottom board side and drive three 38mm coarse-thread screws on each side (6 total). Use a carpenter's square to confirm right angles during assembly.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 7 / 17

   Tip

   • Apply wood glue thinly, about a toothpick’s width. Wipe off excess immediately with a damp cloth.
   • Clamp side boards for temporary fixation before drilling to reduce movement.
   • Ensure floor is flat; confirm bottom board is level with a level before assembly.

   Watch out

   • Too much glue extrudes and prevents paint adhesion; apply thin and even layer.
   • Skipping pilot holes risks plywood splitting; always drill before driving screws.
8. 8

   Attach Shelf Board

   ≈ 20 min

   Fit the shelf board (1164mm long) into the marked positions. Align ends with side boards, apply glue, drill φ3.5mm pilot holes from outside of side boards, and drive two 38mm coarse-thread screws on each side (4 total). Confirm shelf board is level with a level.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 8 / 17

   Tip

   • Double-check that shelf board length 1164mm equals top board width 1200mm minus side boards thickness twice (18mm x2).
   • No need to countersink screws since shelf board is hidden inside.
   • If using adjustable shelf fittings (shelf pegs), drill multiple holes φ5mm instead of this step.

   Watch out

   • Too short shelf causes wobble; too long causes side board bowing. Recheck cut lengths carefully.
   • Uneven shelf causes TV remote or small objects to roll off. Always confirm level.
9. 9

   Attach Top Board

   ≈ 25 min

   Place the top board (1200mm wide) on the box frame aligning top edges of side boards. Drill φ3.5mm pilot holes from the top, then drive three 38mm coarse-thread screws on each side (6 total). Countersink screw heads to hide them and optionally fill with wooden dowels or wood putty for cleaner finish.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 9 / 17

   Tip

   • Top board is the most crucial part for TV support; increasing screws to four per side (8 total) improves strength.
   • Use φ9mm wooden dowels to fill countersink holes for seamless appearance after painting.
   • For very heavy TVs (over 30kg), consider adding additional reinforcement (1×2 lumber) under the top board centrally.

   Watch out

   • Installing the top board reversed front-to-back causes mismatched wood grain orientation.
   • 38mm screws are appropriate for 18mm thick top board; longer screws may penetrate and damage the shelf below.
10. 10

    Check Right Angles and Diagonal Lengths

    ≈ 15 min

    Verify the box frame is squared. Use a carpenter’s square on all four internal corners to confirm 90° angles. Measure both diagonal lengths with a tape; they should be equal within 2mm. If skewed, loosen screws slightly, use clamps to correct squareness, then tighten screws again.

    Inspect

    No wobble ✓

    InspectSTEP 10 / 17

    Tip

    • If diagonal difference is over 5mm, the frame is severely distorted and back board may not fit properly; correct immediately.
    • Clamp the whole box diagonally to help achieve accurate right angles.
    • Enlarging pilot holes to φ4mm adds play for easier adjustments.

    Watch out

    • Ignoring frame distortion now causes large gaps when attaching back board later.
    • Use reliable carpenter’s squares made of aluminum or steel. Plastic ones have larger errors.
11. 11

    Attach Back Board

    ≈ 15 min

    Place the 4mm veneer plywood (1200x450mm) on the back side of the assembled box. Fix with a staple gun or fine screws (φ3×20mm) at four edges and center. Staple every 30mm, screws every 100mm. The back board stabilizes right angles and eliminates most distortion.

    Build the frame

    Check for square

    AssembleSTEP 11 / 17

    Tip

    • Correct any distortion using clamps before fixing the back board after diagonal checks.
    • Using a staple gun speeds up the process. It uses thin stapler-like pins.
    • Install the wood grain of back board horizontally for a neat overall look.

    Watch out

    • Avoid installing back board reversed; front and back differ in color and grain.
    • Check for staple pins protruding through back surface by feeling with hand after installation.
12. 12

    Process Wiring Hole (If Necessary)

    ≈ 15 min

    Drill a wiring hole (φ50mm) in the back board for passing the TV power cable, HDMI cable, and antenna cable. Ideal location is directly behind the TV's connection terminals. If no hole saw is available, drill multiple holes and connect them with a keyhole saw.

    Drill a hole

    φ50mm

    DrillSTEP 12 / 17

    Tip

    • Edge band wiring hole with edge banding tape to avoid injury and protect cable coating.
    • Confirm connector layout behind TV before deciding hole position to ensure straight cable access.
    • Align hole height with power outlet for neat appearance.

    Watch out

    • Incorrect hole placement hinders cable routing and looks untidy. Place and mark hole with TV temporarily positioned.
    • If hole saw slips, plywood surface may peel; keep drill bit centered firmly.
13. 13

    Prepare Surface for Painting

    ≈ 15 min

    Lightly sand the entire unit with #240 sandpaper before painting. Remove all dust with a damp cloth followed by a dry cloth. Remove wood glue residue and burrs around screw holes. Suitable finishes include Watco Oil, Briwax, or water-based paints for indoor use.

    Sand

    #240

    SandSTEP 13 / 17

    Tip

    • Test paint on a scrap piece first since plywood absorbs differently than solid wood, often resulting in unexpected color.
    • Water-based paint is easy to clean up with water and great for beginners.
    • Watco Oil preserves natural wood texture and is applied by rubbing with a cloth.

    Watch out

    • Glue spots repel paint; lightly sand with #240 to smooth before painting.
    • Incomplete dust removal causes rough paint surface; clean thoroughly before paint.
14. 14

    First Coat Painting

    ≈ 30 min

    Apply paint evenly across all surfaces using a brush or cloth, starting with the top board, then side boards, bottom board, and back board, painting from large flat surfaces to narrow ones. Apply along wood grain in one direction to minimize brush marks. Use thin coats. Allow to dry naturally for at least 2 hours.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 14 / 17

    Tip

    • Use paint in small portions, keeping cans closed to prevent skin formation.
    • If brush strokes are noticeable, switch to a foam roller brush for even application.
    • Dry in an area with minimal dust; avoid radiant heaters or fans blowing directly.

    Watch out

    • Thick coats cause uneven drying and peeling later; always use thin coats with multiple layers.
    • Forced drying with heating causes surface drying only while inside remains damp; rely on natural drying.
15. 15

    Intermediate Sanding and Second Coat Painting

    ≈ 25 min

    Once first coat fully dries, lightly sand surface with #320 sandpaper to smooth roughness (intermediate sanding). Remove dust and apply a second coat of paint thinner than the first for a smooth finish. Let dry for at least 24 hours.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 15 / 17

    Tip

    • Intermediate sanding lightly smooths surface without removing paint layer.
    • Second coat must be thin to prevent dripping.
    • Avoid touching surface during drying to prevent fingerprints and dust; strictly adhere to 24-hour drying time.

    Watch out

    • Excessive sanding removes the first paint layer; keep sanding very light with #320.
    • Thick second coats extend drying times and delay subsequent work.
16. 16

    Attach Foot Pads and Anti-Tip Hardware

    ≈ 20 min

    Stick felt pads on the bottom of legs to prevent floor damage and wobble. For earthquake safety, install anti-tip straps or hardware at the upper back, securing the TV stand to the wall with screws. Fixing to wall studs is safest during large earthquakes.

    Fix to the wall

    Anchor to studs

    InstallSTEP 16 / 17

    Tip

    • Felt pads cost around 50 yen at home centers; select 10mm thick ones to absorb floor unevenness.
    • Anti-tip straps are available at 100 yen stores; specialized TV stand ones costing around 1000 yen offer better security.
    • Attach to wall studs as drywall alone won't hold screws securely.

    Watch out

    • Skipping felt pads causes scratches and wear on flooring.
    • Omitting anti-tip devices risks stand tipping and TV damage in large quakes.
17. 17

    Final Checks and Placement

    ≈ 20 min

    Move the finished TV stand to its installation location. Use a level to confirm evenness front to back and side to side. Adjust felt pads to eliminate wobble. Place the TV, route cables, and test power. Initially, place only light objects and observe for a week until paint fully cures.

    Done!

    Done — nice work!

    DoneSTEP 17 / 17

    Tip

    • Place TV centered to distribute weight evenly on top board; placing off-center can cause warping.
    • Route cables through back board hole, bundling with cable ties for neatness.
    • When placing AV amplifier or Blu-ray recorder, maintain at least 50mm ventilation space front and back.

    Watch out

    • Paint fully cures in about one week; using remote controls or placing equipment directly on the surface on day one causes stickiness.
    • Uneven floors prevent leveling; adjust felt pad thickness appropriately on each side.

Warnings

• ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.

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