TV Stand Bookshelf

Dimensions

Cut list

Tools you'll need

• ✓

  Measuring Tape (5m or longer)

  Used for measuring all parts.

• ✓

  Pencil and Carpenter's Square

  Used for marking lines and checking right angles.

• ✓

  Saw

  Recommended to use home center's cutting service.

• ✓

  Electric Driver

  Using an impact driver improves work efficiency.

• ✓

  Sandpaper

  Prepare two types: #120 and #240.

• ✓

  Level

  Essential for checking levelness during assembly.

• ✓

  Clamps (2 or more)

  Used for temporary fixing during joining.

• ✓

  Brush and Paint Tray

  Used for oil and varnish finishing.

Materials

Build steps

1. 1

   Measure and Confirm Installation Location

   ≈ 15 min

   Measure the installation location for the TV stand and confirm that the TV stand with bookshelf (1800×400×1800mm) will fit. Check the positions of power outlets, cable routes, and the design of the TV stand base.

   Measure

   W 1800 mm

   MeasureSTEP 1 / 17

   Tip

   • Ideal clearance is TV stand width plus 100mm on each side. For wall-mounted TVs, consider reinforcing the center of the top board.
   • Choose a place where at least 50mm gap can be maintained from the wall for front and rear ventilation.
   • If the floor is carpeted, the legs may sink causing instability; measure assuming a hard board is placed underneath.

   Watch out

   • If the TV stand base is larger than 400mm depth, it may protrude dangerously; always measure the TV box bottom before purchasing.
   • If you plan to store an AV amplifier or soundbar, confirm that they fit inside the shelf inner dimensions (W1164×D390×H328mm).
2. 2

   Prepare Cutting List and Order at Home Center

   ≈ 30 min

   From 18mm thick 1×6-foot Lauan plywood boards, cut out the top and bottom boards (18×400×1200)×2, side boards (18×400×364)×2, and shelf board (18×390×1164)×1. The back board is 4mm veneer (1200×400)×1. Large plywood sheets are heavy and large; using the home center's cutting service is recommended.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 2 / 17

   Tip

   • Home center cutting service charges 30-50 yen per cut; they can cut within ±1mm accuracy.
   • The wood grain should run horizontally as viewed from the front for aesthetic appearance; specify this when ordering.
   • Side board length 364mm includes thickness of top and bottom boards (18mm×2) in inner dimension calculation; communicate as is.

   Watch out

   • If the plywood is not 18mm thick (e.g., 12mm/15mm/21mm), the side board length calculation differs; confirm actual thickness before ordering.
   • The cutting service only does straight cuts; holes for cable routing or chamfers need to be processed manually.
3. 3

   Apply Edge Banding Tape

   ≈ 25 min

   The plywood edge (cut surface) is rough compared to finished sides, so apply edge banding tape using an iron. Treat visible edge surfaces — front, back, left and right edges of top and bottom boards; front edges of side boards and shelf board. Set iron temperature to medium (about 150℃) and press for 3-5 seconds.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 3 / 17

   Tip

   • The edge banding tape melts resin adhesive with heat for bonding; pressing with a cloth before cooling improves adhesion.
   • Excess tape should be trimmed with a cutter angled softly; make the cuts gradually in 2-3 passes for natural finish.
   • Back board edges (4mm veneer) are not visible and do not require tape.

   Watch out

   • Moving the iron continuously prevents proper heat application; hold steady for 3 seconds per spot before moving.
   • Too high a temperature causes tape to scorch and discolor; test with spare tape to set correct temperature.
4. 4

   Sand All Parts

   ≈ 30 min

   Sand all parts using #180 then #240 sandpaper. The plywood surface is originally smooth, so light touch sanding is sufficient. Slightly chamfer edges with #240 to round sharp corners for safe handling. Also gently finish edges of the edge banding tape with #240.

   Sand

   #180

   SandSTEP 4 / 17

   Tip

   • Sand along the wood grain. Sanding against the grain raises fibers causing uneven paint finish.
   • The chamfer is done until the edges feel smooth enough to not catch on tissue paper.
   • Using a vacuum nozzle near the sander reduces dust by half, making indoor work more manageable.

   Watch out

   • The plywood veneer layer is thin (0.2-0.5mm); excessive sanding exposes grey inner layers. Sand lightly.
   • Sanding generates large amounts of dust; perform sanding outdoors, on a balcony or garage if possible.
5. 5

   Mark Shelf Board Position on Side Boards

   ≈ 20 min

   Mark fixed positions for the shelf board on the two side boards. Draw a horizontal line 200mm up from the bottom edge of the side boards; this will be the top surface height of the shelf board. Take symmetrical measurements on both boards. Use a carpenter's square and pencil to mark lines and pilot hole positions (at the center of the shelf board thickness i.e. 9mm line).

   Mark a line

   Use a try square

   MarkSTEP 5 / 17

   Tip

   • Stack the two side boards, mark one then use a punch to transfer marks to the other for perfect alignment.
   • Shelf height can be adjusted based on equipment; a guideline is amplifier height plus 50mm.
   • Pilot hole center position is at half the side board thickness (9mm from edge); misalignment causes shelf board offset.

   Watch out

   • If heights differ between left and right sides, shelf board will tilt; always transfer marks by stacking.
   • Pencil lines may show through after painting; keep lines light and plan to erase after assembly.
6. 6

   Drill Pilot Holes on Shelf Board and Side Boards

   ≈ 25 min

   Drill pilot holes (φ3.5mm) on the shelf board end faces for side board fixing, two on each side, total four holes. Also drill through pilot holes on the side board markings with φ3.5mm, and countersink from front side (φ8mm diameter×3mm depth). While plywood resists splitting, holes near the edges need caution.

   Drill a hole

   φ3.5mm

   DrillSTEP 6 / 17

   Tip

   • Countersinking allows screw heads to sit flush for a neat finish.
   • Use a drill stopper to control depth; target about board thickness minus 2mm.
   • Clamp the shelf board securely before drilling holes at end faces to prevent splitting.

   Watch out

   • Screws closer than 10mm to board edge risk splitting; maintain 9mm centerline pilot hole position.
   • Drill perpendicular to surface to avoid protrusion on opposite side.
7. 7

   Temporary Assembly of Bottom and Side Boards

   ≈ 30 min

   Place the bottom board on the floor and stand the two side boards on top. Align bottom edges of side boards with bottom board edges. Apply a thin layer of wood glue, drill φ3.5mm pilot holes from bottom board side and drive three coarse-thread screws (38mm) per side (6 total). Use a carpenter's square to confirm right angles between side and bottom boards during assembly.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 7 / 17

   Tip

   • Apply wood glue as a thin layer about pebble size spread evenly; immediately wipe off excess with damp cloth.
   • Clamp side boards for temporary fixation before drilling pilot holes to prevent movement.
   • Ensure floor is level before assembly and check bottom board level with a level.

   Watch out

   • Too much glue causes overflow that repels paint; apply thin, uniform glue.
   • Omitting pilot holes causes plywood splitting.
8. 8

   Attach Shelf Board

   ≈ 20 min

   Insert the shelf board (1164mm length) at the marked position. Align ends flush with side boards. Apply wood glue, drill φ3.5mm pilot holes from outer side of side boards, then drive two coarse-thread screws (38mm) per side (4 total). Confirm shelf board level with a level.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 8 / 17

   Tip

   • Confirm shelf board length 1164mm = top board width 1800mm - side board thickness 18mm×2 before proceeding.
   • Screw holes inside the cabinet do not require countersinking.
   • If converting to adjustable shelves with shelf pins, drill multiple φ5mm holes at this stage.

   Watch out

   • Shelf board too short causes looseness; too long bulges side boards. Double check cut dimensions.
   • Uneven shelf board causes objects to roll; always check levelness.
9. 9

   Attach Top Board

   ≈ 25 min

   Place the top board (1200mm width) on top of the cabinet, aligning upper edges of side boards. Drill φ3.5mm pilot holes from top board side, drive three coarse-thread screws (38mm) per side (6 total). Countersink screw heads and fill with wooden dowels or wood filler for a cleaner finish.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 9 / 17

   Tip

   • Top board is the main load-bearing part for TV; increasing screws to four per side (8 total) improves load capacity.
   • Fill countersunk holes with φ9mm wooden dowels for invisible joints after painting.
   • If the TV weighs over 30kg, reinforce the top board center underneath with a 1x2 lumber brace.

   Watch out

   • Installing top board backwards misaligns wood grain direction; align wood grain before screwing.
   • 38mm screws are appropriate length for 18mm board thickness; longer screws may penetrate bottom shelf board.
10. 10

    Confirm Right Angles and Diagonal Measurement

    ≈ 15 min

    Check all interior corners of the cabinet with a carpenter's square to confirm 90 degrees. Measure internal diagonal lengths with a tape measure and confirm both diagonals are equal within 2mm tolerance. If misaligned, loosen screws slightly, clamp structure to align, then re-tighten screws.

    Inspect

    No wobble ✓

    InspectSTEP 10 / 17

    Tip

    • Diagonal difference over 5mm indicates significant distortion affecting back board fitting; correction is necessary.
    • Clamping the entire box diagonally helps achieve right angles.
    • Enlarging pilot holes to φ4mm allows slight play for easier adjustment.

    Watch out

    • Uncorrected distortion causes large gaps during back board installation.
    • Use reliable metal carpenter's square with accurate measurement; plastic squares are less accurate.
11. 11

    Attach Back Board

    ≈ 15 min

    Place the 4mm veneer back board on the back side, fix four edges and center with staples or fine screws (φ3×20mm). Use staples spaced about 30mm or screws about 100mm apart. The back board stabilizes and secures right angles, eliminating overall distortion.

    Build the frame

    Check for square

    AssembleSTEP 11 / 17

    Tip

    • If distortion was found in diagonal check, clamp to correct while fixing back board.
    • Stapler is faster; it shoots thin needles like a large stapler.
    • Install wood grain of back board horizontally for a clean appearance of the TV stand.

    Watch out

    • Ensure correct orientation of back board as front and back surfaces differ in color and grain.
    • Check for staple needles protruding through back; feel backside with hand after installation.
12. 12

    Process Cable Holes (If Needed)

    ≈ 15 min

    To route TV power cable, HDMI, and antenna cables, drill holes in the back board using a 50mm hole saw. Ideal position is directly behind the TV connection terminals. If no hole saw is available, drill multiple small holes and cut with a fret saw to make the hole.

    Drill a hole

    下穴 φ3.5mm

    DrillSTEP 12 / 17

    Tip

    • Apply edge banding tape on hole edges to protect fingers and cable insulation.
    • Confirm TV terminal layout to position cables for straight routing.
    • Align hole height with power outlet for neat appearance.

    Watch out

    • Incorrect hole position prevents neat cable routing behind the TV; mark after temporarily placing TV.
    • If hole saw skids, plywood surface may peel; ensure center drill bit bites well.
13. 13

    Preparation Before Painting

    ≈ 15 min

    Before painting, lightly sand all surfaces with #240 sandpaper, and thoroughly remove dust using a damp cloth followed by a dry cloth. Remove any excess wood glue and burrs around screw holes. For indoor use, Watco Oil, Briwax, or water-based paints are easy to apply.

    Sand

    #240

    SandSTEP 13 / 17

    Tip

    • Always test paint on scrap wood; plywood absorbs paint differently than wood, often resulting in unexpected color intensity.
    • Water-based paints are washable with water, recommended for beginners.
    • Watco Oil provides a natural finish preserving wood texture; apply by rubbing with cloth.

    Watch out

    • Glue spots repel paint; sand lightly with #240 before painting.
    • Leaving dust on surface causes rough paint texture; clean thoroughly before painting.
14. 14

    First Coat of Paint

    ≈ 30 min

    Apply paint or finish evenly over all surfaces using a brush or rag. Sequence: top board, side boards, bottom board, back board, from large to small surfaces. Brush along wood grain in a single direction to minimize brush marks. Apply thin, uniform coats and allow to dry naturally for over 2 hours.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 14 / 17

    Tip

    • Use small amounts of paint at a time; leaving paint open causes skinning and waste.
    • If brush marks bother you, use a foam roller brush for more even coating on flat surfaces.
    • Dry in a dust-free environment; avoid near fans or blowers.

    Watch out

    • Thick coats cause uneven drying and later peeling; two thin coats are best.
    • Drying near heater drafts dries surface only leaving inner layer semi-wet; natural drying is preferred.
15. 15

    Light Sanding and Second Coat

    ≈ 25 min

    After the first coat dries completely, lightly sand the surface with #320 sandpaper (called intermediate sanding) to remove roughness. Remove dust and apply the second coat, thinning slightly more than first coat to avoid unevenness. Let dry for at least 24 hours.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 15 / 17

    Tip

    • Intermediate sanding removes surface roughness, not paint layer.
    • Second coat should be thin to prevent drips.
    • Avoid touching surface before fully dry to prevent fingerprints and dust sticking; abide by 24-hour drying time.

    Watch out

    • Too much sanding removes first coat paint layer; lightly sand with #320.
    • Thick second coat extends drying time preventing next day work.
16. 16

    Attach Felt Pads and Earthquake Prevention Brackets

    ≈ 20 min

    Attach felt pads to the bottom of legs to prevent floor scratches and wobbling. For earthquake safety, install earthquake belts or anti-tip brackets at the upper back. The safest method is to fix the stand to the wall studs with screws.

    Fix to the wall

    Anchor to studs

    InstallSTEP 16 / 17

    Tip

    • Felt pads cost about 50 yen at home centers; 10mm thick pads absorb floor unevenness.
    • Earthquake belts can be purchased at 100 yen shops; specialized TV stands belts costing around 1000 yen provide more security.
    • When fixing to wall, find wall studs; drywall alone is insufficient for secure fixing.

    Watch out

    • Skipping felt pads results in scratched floors on hardwood.
    • Omitting anti-tip measures risks TV stand toppling in big earthquakes causing TV damage.
17. 17

    Final Check and Installation

    ≈ 20 min

    Move the completed TV stand to installation spot and check front-back and left-right level with a level. If wobbling occurs, adjust using felt pad thickness. Place TV, route cables, plug in power and verify operation. Use light items on shelf initially and allow paint to fully cure for a week before heavy use.

    Done!

    Done — nice work!

    DoneSTEP 17 / 17

    Tip

    • Place TV centrally on top board so weight is evenly distributed; placing off-center may cause warping.
    • Route cables through back board holes and bundle with cable ties for neatness.
    • If storing AV amplifiers or BD recorders, ensure at least 50mm ventilation space front and back.

    Watch out

    • Paint takes about a week to fully cure; placing equipment or remotes directly on painted areas immediately results in stickiness.
    • Sloping floors prevent leveling; adjust felt pad thickness asymmetrically to compensate.

Warnings

• ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.

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