TV stand
Iron-Leg TV Stand
DIY blueprint for Iron-Leg TV Stand.
Dimensions
Width (W)
1200mm
Depth (D)
400mm
Height (H)
400mm
Cut list
Tools you'll need
- ✓
Tape Measure (5m or longer)
Used to measure each board.
- ✓
Pencil and Carpenter's Square
Used for marking and checking right angles.
- ✓
Handsaw
Recommended to use home center cutting service.
- ✓
Electric Driver
Impact driver improves work efficiency.
- ✓
Sandpaper
Prepare two types: #120 and #240.
- ✓
Level
Essential for checking horizontal alignment during assembly.
- ✓
Clamps (2 or more)
Used to temporarily fix parts during joining.
- ✓
Brush and Paint Tray
Used for oil or varnish finish.
Materials
Top and Bottom Board (Lauan Plywood 18mm)
18×400×1200mm
2 枚
Side Board (Lauan Plywood 18mm)
18×400×364mm
2 枚
Shelf Board (Lauan Plywood 18mm)
18×390×1164mm
1 枚
Back Board (Veneer 4mm)
1200×400mm
4mm thickness
1 枚
Coarse-thread Screws 38mm
38mm
60 本
Wood Glue
Fast-drying type
1 本
Build steps
- 1
Measure and Confirm Installation Location
≈ 15 minMeasure the location for the TV stand and confirm that the Iron-Leg TV Stand (1200×400×400mm) fits. Also check the position of outlets, cable routes, and TV stand shape.
MeasureW 1200 mmMeasureSTEP 1 / 17Tip
- Ideal clearance is TV stand width plus 100mm extra on each side. Consider reinforcing center of top board if wall-mounted.
- Choose a location that allows at least 50mm space from the wall for front and back ventilation.
- If the floor is carpeted, account for legs sinking and wobbling by placing a hard board underneath during measurement.
Watch out
- If the TV stand depth (400mm) is too shallow for the TV stand base, it may protrude dangerously; always measure the TV box bottom before purchase.
- If storing AV amplifiers or sound bars, check if equipment size fits inside the shelf interior (W1164×D390×H328mm) beforehand.
- 2
Create Cut List and Order from Home Center
≈ 30 minCut the Lauan plywood 18mm 1x6尺 (1820mm length) into top and bottom boards (18×400×1200)×2, side boards (18×400×364)×2, and shelf board (18×390×1164)×1. The back board is 4mm veneer (1200×400)×1. Because plywood is heavy and large, using cutting service at the home center is recommended.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 2 / 17Tip
- Home center cutting service costs 30-50 yen per cut and can cut with ±1mm accuracy.
- The wood grain direction should be horizontal from the front view for a beautiful appearance; specify this when ordering.
- The side board length of 364mm accounts for the thickness of the top and bottom boards (18mm×2) in the internal dimension calculation; order as is.
Watch out
- If the plywood thickness is not 18mm (e.g., 12mm, 15mm, 21mm), side board length calculation changes; confirm actual thickness before ordering.
- Cutting service only does straight cuts; holes and beveling must be done by yourself.
- 3
Attach Edge Banding Tape
≈ 25 minThe cut edges of the plywood are rough compared to the finished surfaces, so attach edge banding tape by ironing. Apply tape on visible edges – front, back, left, and right edges of top and bottom boards; front edges of side boards and shelf board. Use iron at medium heat (about 150℃), pressing for 3-5 seconds.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 3 / 17Tip
- Edge banding tape melts resin to adhere when heated; press with cloth before cooling for better adhesion.
- Trim excess tape with a cutter at a bevel angle for natural finish; cut in 2-3 passes rather than all at once.
- No need to apply edge tape on back board edges since it is not visible.
Watch out
- Iron must be held stationary for 3 seconds at each point; moving it continuously will not heat properly.
- Too high temperature causes tape to scorch and discolor; test temperature on leftover tape before starting.
- 4
Sand All Components
≈ 30 minSand all parts first with #180 then #240 sandpaper. The plywood surface is originally smooth, so a light pass is sufficient. Lightly chamfer edges with #240 to prevent sharpness that might cause nuisance or injury. Also finish the edge banding tape edges with #240 gently.
Sand#180SandSTEP 4 / 17Tip
- Sand along the grain direction; sanding against the grain raises fibers causing uneven finish after painting.
- Chamfer edges until a tissue paper can be brushed without catching.
- Using a vacuum hose close to the sander greatly reduces dust, making indoor work bearable.
Watch out
- The plywood veneer layer is thin (0.2-0.5mm); sanding too hard exposes grey layer underneath.
- Sanding produces copious dust; perform in ventilated areas like balconies or garages.
- 5
Mark Shelf Position on Side Boards
≈ 20 minMark the position for fixing the shelf board on the two side boards. Draw a horizontal line 200mm above the bottom on the side boards (this is the shelf top surface position). Align both side boards symmetrically. Use carpenter's square and pencil, and also mark the pilot hole positions along the shelf thickness center (9mm line).
Mark a lineUse a try squareMarkSTEP 5 / 17Tip
- Stack both side boards, mark one, then transfer the marks by punching onto the other for perfect alignment.
- Shelf height can be adjusted according to equipment height; leave about 50mm above AV amplifier.
- Pilot holes are centered on side board thickness (18mm), 9mm from edge; deviation causes shelf misalignment.
Watch out
- If heights differ between left and right side boards, the shelf will tilt; do not forget two-board stacked transfer marking.
- Pencil marks may show through paint; draw lines lightly to erase later after assembly.
- 6
Drill Pilot Holes in Shelf Board and Side Boards
≈ 25 minDrill pilot holes (φ3.5mm) at the ends of the shelf board for fixing to side boards, two on each side (4 total). Drill through side boards at marked positions with φ3.5mm drill; countersink the front side with φ8mm diameter and 3mm depth. Although plywood resists splitting, pilot holes near edges require care.
Drill a holeφ3.5mmDrillSTEP 6 / 17Tip
- Countersinking screw heads flush creates neat finish.
- Use a drill stopper to control hole depth and prevent drilling through; aim for plate thickness minus 2mm.
- Clamp the shelf board firmly when drilling pilot holes on the end face since it's prone to splitting.
Watch out
- Screwing closer than 10mm from the edge risks splitting; adhere to 9mm centerline.
- Drilling at an angle causes protrusion on opposite side; drill vertically from above.
- 7
Temporary Assembly of Bottom and Side Boards
≈ 30 minPlace the bottom board on the floor and stand the two side boards upright on it. Align the edges of side boards with bottom board edges. Apply a thin layer of wood glue and drill pilot holes (φ3.5mm) from bottom board side, then drive 3 coarse-thread screws 38mm per side (6 total). Use carpenter's square to ensure right angles during this process.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 7 / 17Tip
- Applying glue thinly, about the thickness of a toothpick, spread evenly. Wipe off excess immediately with a damp cloth.
- Clamp the side boards temporarily before drilling pilot holes for stability.
- Ensure the floor is flat before assembly; verify bottom board level with a level.
Watch out
- Excess glue will prevent paint adhesion; always apply in a thin and uniform layer.
- Skipping pilot holes will cause plywood to crack.
- 8
Attach Shelf Board
≈ 20 minInsert the shelf board (1164mm long) at marked position between side boards. Align ends flush. Apply glue, drill pilot holes (φ3.5mm) from outside of side boards, then drive 2 coarse-thread screws 38mm per side (4 total). Confirm shelf board horizontal with a level.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 8 / 17Tip
- Confirm shelf board length matches calculation: 1164mm = top board width 1200 - side board thickness 18×2.
- Shelf board is internal and hidden; no need to countersink screw heads.
- If using adjustable shelf pins instead, drill multiple φ5mm holes at this stage accordingly.
Watch out
- A shelf board too short causes wobble; too long causes sides to bulge outward. Reconfirm measurements before proceeding.
- If shelf board is not horizontal, small objects or remotes will roll off; always verify with level.
- 9
Attach Top Board
≈ 25 minPlace the top board (1200mm width) on the assembled box, aligning with the top edges of side boards. Drill pilot holes (φ3.5mm) from top board side and drive coarse-thread screws 38mm: 3 screws each side (6 total). Countersink screw heads and fill holes later with wooden dowels or wood filler for a cleaner finish.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 9 / 17Tip
- Top board bears the TV's weight; increasing screws to 4 per side (8 total) improves load bearing.
- Fill countersunk holes with φ9mm wooden dowels for seamless joints; after painting, these become invisible.
- For very heavy TVs (over 30kg), add reinforcement with 1x2 lumber underneath at center from below.
Watch out
- Mounting top board backwards results in misaligned wood grain direction; confirm orientation before screwing.
- 38mm screws are optimal for 18mm board thickness; longer screws may penetrate shelf board underneath.
- 10
Check Right Angles and Diagonal Measurements
≈ 15 minVerify the entire box is at right angles. Use carpenter's square at all four internal corners to confirm 90 degrees. Measure internal diagonal lengths with tape measure; both diagonals should match within 2mm tolerance. If misaligned, loosen screws slightly, clamp to square, then tighten again.
InspectNo wobble ✓InspectSTEP 10 / 17Tip
- A diagonal difference exceeding 5mm indicates serious distortion; correct it to avoid back board misfit.
- Applying clamps diagonally is effective for squaring the box.
- Enlarging pilot holes to φ4mm gives some play for easier adjustments.
Watch out
- Ignoring distortion at this stage creates large gaps when fitting back board.
- Use reliable metal or aluminum squares for accuracy; plastic squares tend to have errors.
- 11
Attach Back Board
≈ 15 minPlace the 4mm veneer back board on the backside and fix with a stapler or thin screws (φ3×20mm) at corners and center. Staple every 30mm or screw every 100mm. The back board secures the square shape, removing most distortions in the box.
Build the frameCheck for squareAssembleSTEP 11 / 17Tip
- If distortion remains after diagonal check, clamp and correct while securing the back board.
- Staplers provide quicker fixing; a tool similar to a thin heavy-duty stapler.
- Orient veneer grain horizontally for a neat overall appearance.
Watch out
- Do not attach back board reversed; front and back have visible color and grain differences.
- Check for protruding staples penetrating through; feel the back side with hand after fastening.
- 12
Cut Cable Holes as Needed
≈ 15 minDrill a cable hole in the back board using a hole saw (φ50mm) to pass power cords, HDMI, and antenna cables. Position ideally just behind the TV's connection ports. If a hole saw is unavailable, drill multiple holes and connect them with a fret saw.
Drill a holeφ50mmDrillSTEP 12 / 17Tip
- Apply edge banding tape to hole edges to protect fingers and cable coverings.
- Determine hole position by checking TV's port arrangement for straight cable routing.
- Align hole height with power outlet for a tidy look.
Watch out
- Incorrect hole position prevents cables from coming out directly behind TV, causing an untidy setup.
- If the hole saw slips, it may peel the plywood surface; ensure drill bit in center grips firmly before cutting.
- 13
Prepare Surface Before Painting
≈ 15 minLightly sand entire piece with #240 sandpaper before painting. Wipe off dust thoroughly with a damp cloth followed by a dry cloth. Remove excess glue and burrs near screw holes. Suitable paints include Watco Oil, Briwax, and water-based paint for indoor use.
Sand#240SandSTEP 13 / 17Tip
- Always test paint on a scrap piece first; plywood absorbs paint differently from solid wood and may appear darker or uneven.
- Water-based paints are easy for beginners as brushes wash with water.
- Watco Oil preserves natural wood texture; apply with cloth by rubbing in.
Watch out
- Glue spots resist paint; always sand lightly with #240 before painting.
- Leaving dust on surface before painting results in rough finish; clean thoroughly before coating.
- 14
First Coat of Paint
≈ 30 minApply paint over all surfaces using a brush or cloth. Follow the order: top board → side boards → bottom board → back board. Paint with the grain in one direction to reduce brush marks. Apply thin and even coat without thick layers. Allow at least 2 hours of natural drying.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 14 / 17Tip
- Use small amounts of paint; keep paint can closed when not applying to prevent skinning.
- If brush marks are visible, switch to a foam roller for a more even application on flat surfaces.
- Keep drying area free from dust; avoid fans blowing dust onto wet paint.
Watch out
- Thick paint causes uneven drying and peeling later; thin coats applied twice are best.
- Drying near direct heat or heaters causes surface drying but inner layers remain tacky; allow natural drying.
- 15
Intermediate Sanding and Second Coat
≈ 25 minAfter the first coat dries completely, lightly sand surface with #320 sandpaper (intermediate sanding) to remove roughness. Remove dust and apply a second coat. Dilute second coat slightly thinner than first for a uniform finish. Allow at least 24 hours drying.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 15 / 17Tip
- Intermediate sanding smooths surface roughness without removing entire paint layer.
- Second coat should be thin to avoid dripping.
- Avoid touching during drying to prevent fingerprints and dust adherence; strictly observe 24-hour drying.
Watch out
- Excessive sanding may remove first coat; use light pressure with #320.
- Thick second coats extend drying times and delay next steps.
- 16
Attach Leg Pads and Anti-Tip Fittings
≈ 20 minStick felt pads to leg bottoms to prevent floor scratching and wobbling. For earthquake safety, install seismic straps or anti-tip hardware on upper back of the unit. Securing to wall studs with screws is the safest method to prevent tipping during major earthquakes.
Fix to the wallAnchor to studsInstallSTEP 16 / 17Tip
- Felt pads cost about 50 yen at home centers; 10mm thick pads absorb floor unevenness well.
- Seismic belts are available at 100 yen shops; dedicated anti-tip products costing around 1000 yen offer better security.
- Secure straps to wall studs behind drywall; drywall alone is insufficient.
Watch out
- Skipping felt pads causes floor scratches and marks.
- Skipping anti-tip fittings risks TV stand tipping and damage during large earthquakes.
- 17
Final Check and Installation
≈ 20 minMove the completed TV stand to its installation site and use a level to confirm front-back and left-right horizontal alignment. Adjust felt pads if wobbling occurs. Place the TV on top, route cables through holes, and turn on power to confirm operation. Avoid placing heavy objects on the stand on the first day; wait about a week for paint to fully cure.
Done!Done — nice work!DoneSTEP 17 / 17Tip
- Place TV centrally to evenly distribute weight on top board; avoid placing it at the edges to prevent distortion.
- Route cables neatly through back board holes and use zip ties for clean appearance.
- If storing AV amplifiers or BD recorders on shelves, leave at least 50mm clearance front and back for ventilation.
Watch out
- Paint takes about one week to fully cure; placing remotes or devices directly after finishing causes stickiness.
- If flooring is sloped, leveling may not be achievable; adjust felt pad thickness accordingly on each side.
Warnings
- ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.
Custom design
Changing the dimensions roughly scales the cut list. Get the precise calculation in the app.
Enter dimensions (mm)
Quick estimateWidth W
Depth D
Height H
Base size 1200×400×400 mm
Cut list (preview)
Total board length ≈ 4.7 m · Available at: カインズ / コメリ / コーナン / DCM
Accurate materials, prices, and cuts in the app
Per-retailer pricing, purchase links, and optimal cut layouts are auto-calculated in the app.
Examples11 examples
View all →Actual cost
¥17,774
Build time
5 h 44 min
Home center
コーナン
気になっていたアイアン脚TV台にようやく挑戦。後ろに 30mm の自在錐で配線穴を開けたので、コードが綺麗に処理できます。次は別のサイズで再チャレンジ予定です。
Actual cost
¥14,997
Build time
6 h 4 min
Home center
DCM
市販品ではしっくりこなかったのでアイアン脚TV台を自分で組みました。重たい液晶 TV を載せるので脚は 2x4 を縦に 4 本。トリマーで縁を面取りすると一気に見栄えが上がりますね。次は別のサイズで再チャレンジ予定です。
Actual cost
¥15,027
Build time
7 h 5 min
Home center
DCM
市販品ではしっくりこなかったのでアイアン脚TV台を自分で組みました。一人暮らしなので一人で組み立てられる構造に。天板は集成材で広く取り、サウンドバーも一緒に置けるサイズに。次は別のサイズで再チャレンジ予定です。
Actual cost
¥12,165
Build time
8 h 20 min
Home center
コーナン
アイアン脚TV台を自作しました。賃貸でも置けるサイズで設計してます。天板は集成材で広く取り、サウンドバーも一緒に置けるサイズに。想定以上に綺麗に仕上がって、自分でもびっくり。
Actual cost
¥22,763
Build time
6 h 42 min
Home center
DCM
市販品ではしっくりこなかったのでアイアン脚TV台を自分で組みました。天板は集成材で広く取り、サウンドバーも一緒に置けるサイズに。次は別のサイズで再チャレンジ予定です。
Actual cost
¥13,212
Build time
4 h 36 min
Home center
カインズ
気になっていたアイアン脚TV台にようやく挑戦。天板は集成材で広く取り、サウンドバーも一緒に置けるサイズに。次は別のサイズで再チャレンジ予定です。
Ratings
Comments4
- Hayatoハードウッド2026/04/26

サイズ感がちょうどよくて、うちのリビングにも置けそう
- wood.archive_282026/04/26

棚板を可動式にしたいときはダボレールを差し込むだけで応用できそうです
- Yuya DIY2026/04/26

棚柱に対して荷重バランスがよく考えられてますね。長年使うなら背板にも筋交い入れたいところ
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