Multimedia Rack

Dimensions

Cut list

Tools you'll need

• ✓

  Measuring Tape (5m or longer)

  Used for measuring each material.

• ✓

  Pencil and Carpenter's Square

  For marking and checking right angles.

• ✓

  Saw

  Using a home center cutting service is recommended.

• ✓

  Electric Screwdriver

  An impact driver improves work efficiency.

• ✓

  Sandpaper

  Prepare #120 and #240 grit.

• ✓

  Level

  Essential for checking horizontality during assembly.

• ✓

  Clamps (2 or more)

  Used for temporary fixing during joining.

• ✓

  Brush and Paint Tray

  Used for oil or varnish finishing.

Materials

Build steps

1. 1

   Measure and Confirm Installation Location

   ≈ 15 min

   Measure the TV stand installation location and confirm that the multimedia rack (600×400×1800mm) fits. Also check outlet positions, cable routes, and the TV stand shape.

   Measure

   W 600 mm

   MeasureSTEP 1 / 17

   Tip

   • Ideal clearance is TV stand width plus 100mm on each side. Consider reinforcing the top board center if the TV is wall-mounted.
   • Choose a location that allows at least 50mm clearance from the wall for front-to-back ventilation.
   • If the floor is carpeted, measure assuming you will place a hard board underneath to prevent legs sinking and wobbling.

   Watch out

   • If the TV stand protrudes beyond the 400mm depth of the rack, it can be dangerous. Always measure the bottom of the TV box before purchase.
   • If storing AV amplifier or soundbar, confirm equipment dimensions fit within shelf interior (W1164×D390×H328mm) beforehand.
2. 2

   Create Cut List and Order at Home Center

   ≈ 30 min

   From 18mm Lauan plywood 1×6 foot boards, cut two top/bottom boards (18×400×1200), two side boards (18×400×364), one shelf board (18×390×1164), and for the back panel a 4mm veneer (1200×400). Since plywood is heavy and large, using home center cutting service is recommended.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 2 / 17

   Tip

   • Home center cutting service costs about 30-50 yen per cut and can cut within ±1mm accuracy.
   • Grain direction is more attractive if horizontal when viewed from front. Specify orientation when ordering.
   • Side board length 364mm is calculated including thickness of two top/bottom boards (18mm×2). Communicate this dimension as is.

   Watch out

   • If plywood thickness is not exactly 18mm (like 12mm, 15mm, or 21mm), side board length calculation will change. Verify actual thickness before ordering.
   • Cutting service only does straight cuts; cable holes or chamfering must be done by yourself.
3. 3

   Attach Edge Banding Tape

   ≈ 25 min

   Plywood cut edges are rough compared to finished surfaces, so apply edge banding tape with an iron. Treat visible edges on top/bottom boards (all sides front/back/left/right), front edges of side boards, and front edge of shelf board. Use medium iron temperature (~150°C) and press for 3-5 seconds.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 3 / 17

   Tip

   • Edge tape bonds by melting resin with heat; pressing with a cloth before it cools improves adhesion.
   • Trim any excess tape with a cutter at a chamfer angle for a natural finish. Do this in 2-3 passes rather than one quick cut.
   • No need to apply tape to back panel (4mm veneer) edges since they are not visible.

   Watch out

   • Moving the iron continuously prevents heat transfer. Hold still for about 3 seconds per spot before moving on.
   • Too high temperature burns the tape and discolors it. Test temperature on leftover tape before applying.
4. 4

   Sand All Parts

   ≈ 30 min

   Sand all parts with #180 then #240 grit sandpaper. Since plywood surfaces are already smooth, light sanding suffices. Chamfer corners lightly with #240 to avoid sharp edges. Also gently finish edge band tape ends with #240.

   Sand

   #180

   SandSTEP 4 / 17

   Tip

   • Sand along the grain; sanding against the grain raises fibers and causes finish irregularities.
   • Aim for chamfered corners where a tissue paper brushed over does not snag.
   • Use a vacuum nozzle near the sander to reduce dust, allowing indoor work.

   Watch out

   • Plywood's surface veneer is thin (0.2-0.5mm); sanding too hard exposes the gray underlayer.
   • Sanding generates large amounts of dust. Perform in a well-ventilated area like balcony or garage.
5. 5

   Mark Shelf Board Position on Side Boards

   ≈ 20 min

   On both side boards, draw a horizontal line 200mm from the bottom edge (this marks the shelf board top surface position). Use a carpenter's square and pencil to draw lines and mark pilot hole positions on the line (9mm from edge, center of 18mm thickness). Ensure symmetrical marks on both sides.

   Mark a line

   Use a try square

   MarkSTEP 5 / 17

   Tip

   • Stack the two side boards and mark one; use a center punch to transfer marks to the other for perfect alignment.
   • Shelf position can be adjusted per equipment size; add 50mm above AV amplifier height as a guide.
   • Pilot holes should be at the center of the side board thickness (9mm from edge). Misalignment causes shelf misfit.

   Watch out

   • If heights differ between left and right, the shelf will tilt. Always transfer marks between stacked boards.
   • Pencil marks may remain visible after finishing. Draw lightly, and erase after assembly.
6. 6

   Drill Pilot Holes in Shelf Board and Side Boards

   ≈ 25 min

   Drill four pilot holes (φ3.5mm) on both ends of the shelf board for fastening to side boards. Also drill matching φ3.5mm holes through the side boards at marked positions; countersink the front (φ8mm diameter, 3mm depth). Although plywood resists splitting, pilot holes near edges require care.

   Drill a hole

   φ3.5mm

   DrillSTEP 6 / 17

   Tip

   • Countersinking screw heads flush improves finish quality.
   • Use a drill stopper set to appropriate depth (board thickness minus 2mm) to avoid overdrilling.
   • Clamp shelf board firmly before drilling holes near ends to prevent splitting.

   Watch out

   • Screws close to edges (within 10mm) risk cracking; keep center line at 9mm edge distance.
   • Drill perpendicularly; angled drilling causes screws to penetrate and protrude on opposite side.
7. 7

   Temporary Assembly of Bottom Board and Side Boards

   ≈ 30 min

   Place bottom board on floor and stand two side boards on it. Align side board bottom edges with bottom board edges. Apply a thin layer of woodworking glue, then drill pilot holes (φ3.5mm) from bottom board side and drive three 38mm coarse-thread screws per side (6 total). Confirm right angles between side boards and bottom board using a carpenter's square.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 7 / 17

   Tip

   • Spread glue thinly, about the size of one toothpick, wiping off any excess immediately with a damp cloth.
   • Clamp side boards temporarily before drilling to prevent movement.
   • Check bottom board level on floor with a level before assembly to prevent warping.

   Watch out

   • Excess glue causes paint adhesion issues; apply thin and uniform layer.
   • Never drive screws without pilot holes; plywood tends to split.
8. 8

   Install Shelf Board

   ≈ 20 min

   Insert the 1164mm shelf board at the marked positions between side boards. Align ends with side boards, apply glue to the mating surfaces, then drill pilot holes from outer side of side boards (φ3.5mm) and drive two 38mm coarse-thread screws per side (4 total). Use a level to confirm shelf board horizontality.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 8 / 17

   Tip

   • Shelf board length 1164mm equals top board width (600) minus twice side board thickness (18×2); measure to confirm before proceeding.
   • As the shelf is internal and hidden, countersinking screw heads is unnecessary.
   • If using adjustable shelf pins instead, drill multiple 5mm holes here for height adjustment.

   Watch out

   • If the shelf board is too short, it will wobble. Too long causes side boards to bulge outward; recheck cut dimensions.
   • An unlevel shelf board causes remotes and small items to slide off; always confirm with a level.
9. 9

   Install Top Board

   ≈ 25 min

   Place the 1200mm wide top board on the assembled box, align top edges of side boards. Drill pilot holes (φ3.5mm) from the top board side, and drive three 38mm coarse-thread screws per side (6 total). Countersink screw heads and fill with wooden dowels or wood putty for a cleaner finish.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 9 / 17

   Tip

   • Top board is the most important load-bearing part for the TV; increasing screws to four per side (8 total) improves strength.
   • Filling countersink holes with φ9mm wooden dowels conceals seams; becomes invisible after finishing.
   • If TV weight exceeds about 30kg, add reinforcement (1×2 lumber) under top board center from below.

   Watch out

   • Incorrect grain direction causes aesthetic mismatch; align wood grain before screwing.
   • 38mm screws are proper length for 18mm thickness; longer screws risk penetrating lower shelf board.
10. 10

    Check Right Angles and Diagonal Measurements

    ≈ 15 min

    Verify right angles by placing a carpenter's square at all four internal corners of the box, ensuring 90 degrees. Measure both diagonal lengths using a tape measure; confirm they are equal within 2mm tolerance. If misaligned, loosen screws slightly and clamp box to correct before retightening.

    Inspect

    No wobble ✓

    InspectSTEP 10 / 17

    Tip

    • If diagonal difference exceeds 5mm, box is significantly warped and must be corrected to fit back panel properly.
    • Applying a clamp diagonally to the whole box helps achieve right angles.
    • Enlarging pilot holes to φ4mm creates play that facilitates adjustment.

    Watch out

    • Neglecting correction now causes large gaps when installing back panel.
    • Use a reliable metal carpenter's square; plastic ones may have excessive error.
11. 11

    Install Back Panel

    ≈ 15 min

    Attach 4mm veneer (600×1800mm) back panel to the rear, fastening all edges and center with a stapler or small screws (φ3×20mm). Staples should be spaced 30mm apart; screws at 100mm intervals. The back panel stabilizes the box and corrects any warp.

    Build the frame

    Check for square

    AssembleSTEP 11 / 17

    Tip

    • If misalignment is detected during diagonal check, clamp box to correct before fastening back panel.
    • Stapler is quicker, using thin nails like a large stapler.
    • Install veneer grain horizontally for a clean look of the TV stand.

    Watch out

    • Ensure correct orientation: front and back surfaces differ in color and grain.
    • Staples may penetrate too far and protrude; check back surface by hand after fastening.
12. 12

    Process Cable Holes (If Needed)

    ≈ 15 min

    To route TV power, HDMI, and antenna cables, drill a cable hole in the back panel using a 50mm hole saw. Ideal position is directly behind TV connection terminals. If no hole saw, drill multiple holes with a drill and connect with a coping saw.

    Drill a hole

    下穴 φ3.5mm

    DrillSTEP 12 / 17

    Tip

    • Apply edge banding tape around hole rims to protect cables and fingers.
    • Confirm terminal positions on TV back before marking hole position to allow straight cable routing.
    • Align hole height with outlet for a neat appearance.

    Watch out

    • Incorrect hole position makes cable routing from behind the TV awkward and unsightly; mark after placing TV temporarily.
    • If hole saw spins loosely, plywood veneer surface may peel; ensure drill bit center is engaged firmly.
13. 13

    Prepare Surface for Painting

    ≈ 15 min

    Lightly sand entire surface with #240 sandpaper before painting, wiping dust with a wet cloth and a dry cloth afterwards. Remove glue squeeze-out and burrs around screw holes. Suitable indoor finishes include Watco Oil, Briwax, or water-based paints.

    Sand

    #240

    SandSTEP 13 / 17

    Tip

    • Test paint on scrap piece first as plywood absorbs differently than wood, affecting finish color.
    • Water-based paints wash brushes with water and are beginner-friendly.
    • Watco Oil preserves natural wood texture and is applied by rubbing on with a cloth.

    Watch out

    • Glue residue repels paint; sand glue spots lightly before painting.
    • Paint adhesion is poor if dust remains; thoroughly clean surface before painting.
14. 14

    First Coat of Paint

    ≈ 30 min

    Apply paint with brush or rag evenly over all surfaces starting with top board, then side boards, bottom board, and back panel. Brush along wood grain in one direction to reduce streaks. Apply thin, even coats without building thick layers. Let dry naturally for at least 2 hours.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 14 / 17

    Tip

    • Use paint in small batches; exposure to air causes skinning which ruins paint.
    • If brush marks are visible, use a foam roller for smoother coverage on flat surfaces.
    • Place drying pieces in low-dust areas; avoid fans blowing air directly.

    Watch out

    • Thick coats cause drying irregularities and peeling later; thin double coats are essential.
    • Heating directly by heater causes surface drying with interior still wet; wait for natural drying.
15. 15

    Intermediate Sanding and Second Coat

    ≈ 25 min

    After first coat fully dries, lightly sand using #320 sandpaper (intermediate sanding) to remove surface roughness. Clean dust then apply second coat more thinly than the first for an even finish. Allow drying for 24 hours or more.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 15 / 17

    Tip

    • Intermediate sanding removes only surface roughness, not the entire coating.
    • Apply second coat thinly; thick layers risk drips.
    • Avoid touching while drying to prevent fingerprints or dust settling; observe 24-hour drying.

    Watch out

    • Excessive sanding removes first coat.
    • Thick second coats increase drying time and delay next workday.
16. 16

    Attach Leg Pads and Earthquake-resistant Hardware

    ≈ 20 min

    Attach felt pads under legs to prevent floor damage and wobbling. For earthquake safety, install anti-tip straps or hardware on the upper back. Secure the rack to the wall with screws for maximum safety during major earthquakes.

    Fix to the wall

    Anchor to studs

    InstallSTEP 16 / 17

    Tip

    • Felt pads cost about 50 yen at home centers; 10mm thickness cushions floor unevenness well.
    • Anti-tip straps can be found at 100-yen stores; specialized TV stand kits (~1000 yen) offer greater peace of mind.
    • Fasten wall anchors into studs (wall framing) as drywall alone is insufficient.

    Watch out

    • Skipping felt pads causes damage to flooring surfaces.
    • Omitting anti-tip measures risks TV stand toppling and TV breakage in major quakes.
17. 17

    Final Check and Setup

    ≈ 20 min

    Move the completed TV stand to installation site and check horizontality front-to-back and side-to-side with a level. Adjust wobble with felt pads. Place the TV, route cables properly, and power on equipment to test. Avoid heavy loads on first day until paint is fully cured (about one week).

    Done!

    Done — nice work!

    DoneSTEP 17 / 17

    Tip

    • Distribute TV weight centered on top board to avoid warping.
    • Route cables neatly through back panel hole and bundle with cable ties for tidy appearance.
    • Maintain about 50mm ventilation space front and back of AV amplifier or BD recorder installed on the shelf.

    Watch out

    • Paint needs one week to fully cure; direct contact with remotes or equipment before then causes stickiness.
    • Uneven floors prevent level setup; adjust felt pad thickness unevenly to compensate.

Warnings

• ⚠️Always drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.

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