Dining table
Kids Low Dining Table
DIY blueprint for Kids Low Dining Table.
Dimensions
Width (W)
900mm
Depth (D)
600mm
Height (H)
400mm
Cut list
Tools you'll need
- ✓
Measuring Tape (5m or longer)
Used for measuring each part.
- ✓
Pencil and Carpenter's Square
For marking lines and confirming right angles.
- ✓
Saw
Using home center cut service is recommended.
- ✓
Electric Driver
Impact driver improves work efficiency.
- ✓
Sandpaper
Prepare two types: #120 and #240.
- ✓
Level
Essential for checking horizontality during assembly.
- ✓
Clamp (2 or more)
Used for temporary fixing during joining.
- ✓
Brush and Paint Tray
Used for oil and varnish finishing.
Materials
Build steps
- 1
Measurement and Environment Check
≈ 15 minMeasure the installation location for the children's low dining table (900×600×400mm). Confirm the front and rear space allowing for sitting with the chair pulled out (chair depth + 400mm minimum) and the dish serving path.
MeasureW 900 mmMeasureSTEP 1 / 12Tip
- For standard dining style, allocate about 600mm width × 400mm depth per person.
- A table height of 720mm assumes a common dining chair seat height of 420mm plus a difference of 300mm.
- Ensure at least 800mm from the wall to allow pulling out the chair comfortably.
Watch out
- A tabletop of 1200×700mm is standard for four people but can feel cramped with many large dishes.
- If the chair backrest is overlooked during measurement, getting in and out may be hindered by poor placement.
- 2
Creating Cut List and Ordering at Home Center
≈ 40 minPrepare seven 2×6 boards sized 38×140×900mm for the tabletop, four 2×4 boards sized 38×89×362mm for legs, two long apron boards 38×89×824mm, and two short apron boards 38×89×824mm. Also prepare sixty 75mm coarse-thread screws. Using the home center's paid cut service is convenient.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 2 / 12Tip
- 2×6 lumber actual size is 38×140 mm; be aware that nominal and actual sizes differ.
- Arranging nine tabletop boards side by side equals 140×9=1260mm. With 3mm gaps between each, total width becomes 1260+24=1284mm.
- Effective actual tabletop width is 9 boards × 140mm + 8 gaps × 3mm = 1284mm which exceeds 900mm, so adjust the number or width accordingly.
Watch out
- Selecting warped or twisted 2×6 boards leads to a wavy tabletop; visually check each board when purchasing.
- Leg length should be 362mm (height 400mm minus tabletop thickness 38mm). Give actual measurement instructions when cutting to avoid mistakes.
- 3
Sanding All Parts
≈ 50 minSand with #120, then #180, then #240 sandpaper in that order. Pay special attention to the 2×6 boards for the tabletop—repeatedly dampen the surface to raise the grain, then after complete drying, finish sanding with #240. This reduces staining during dining.
Sand#120SandSTEP 3 / 12Tip
- Food surfaces must be splinter-free; confirm by running the pad of your finger.
- The wetting-drying sanding process reduces fuzziness after finishing.
- Using an orbital sander can save time; consider rental services.
Watch out
- Not chamfering edges can catch on clothes or skin, especially at children's face height.
- Sanding generates a lot of dust; perform in ventilated locations such as balconies or garages.
- 4
Temporary Assembly of Legs and Aprons (Frame Construction)
≈ 45 minAttach the long and short apron boards 50mm up from the bottom end of the four legs. Aprons are attached on the outside of the legs using two 75mm coarse-thread screws per joint. Confirm right angles at all four corners with a carpenter's square once the rectangular frame is formed.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 4 / 12Tip
- Strength differs if aprons are attached outside or inside the legs; outside looks better, inside impacts tabletop fit.
- Drill φ5mm pilot holes in the aprons before screwing to prevent legs from splitting.
- Right angles at joints directly affect the tabletop fit.
Watch out
- Driving 75mm screws without pilot holes easily splits 2×4 lumber.
- Assembling legs without aligning knots and grain orientation results in inconsistent appearance.
- 5
Check Frame Right Angles and Diagonals
≈ 15 minPlace the assembled frame on a flat floor, confirming all four legs contact the floor (check for wobble). Measure the internal diagonal lengths with a tape measure; ensure they differ by no more than 2mm. If misaligned, loosen screws and correct with clamps before re-tightening.
InspectNo wobble ✓InspectSTEP 5 / 12Tip
- Measurements are inaccurate on uneven floors; work on flat surfaces.
- A diagonal discrepancy over 5mm causes the tabletop to sit crooked; always keep within 2mm.
- A wobble indicates at least one leg is not contacting the floor; adjust until all legs rest firmly.
Watch out
- Proceeding with distortion causes tabletop lifting or misalignment.
- Inexpensive carpenter's squares may have errors over 0.5°, affecting accuracy.
- 6
Tabletop Assembly
≈ 40 minArrange nine 2×6 boards side by side on a workbench, aligning wood grain direction. Insert 3mm thick chopsticks between boards to create gaps allowing wood movement. Attach two 2×4 reinforcement battens underneath using wood glue and 45mm coarse-thread screws to unify the tabletop.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 6 / 12Tip
- Align annual ring orientation alternately to counteract warping and prevent cracking.
- Place battens about 200mm inward from tabletop edges to avoid visible marks.
- Ensure 45mm screws do not penetrate the 38mm thick boards; confirm with actual measurement.
Watch out
- Packing boards without gaps causes moisture swelling and warping; always leave 3mm breathing space.
- Slant battens lead to warped tabletops; confirm right angles with a carpenter's square.
- 7
Fixing Tabletop to Frame
≈ 30 minPlace the frame on a flat surface and position the tabletop so there is about 30mm overhang equally on all sides. Drill φ5mm pilot holes through the apron boards into the tabletop underside, then fix with twelve 75mm coarse-thread screws: four from each long apron and two from each short apron.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 7 / 12Tip
- An overhang of 30-50mm does not interfere with dining actions.
- Driving screws slightly towards the inside of the apron rather than centered reduces grain splitting.
- Keep screw length within apron thickness plus 20mm to avoid penetrating the tabletop.
Watch out
- Driving 75mm screws directly may cause screw heads to protrude on tabletop surface; use pilot holes and countersinking to prevent.
- Excessive overhang (>50mm) causes the tabletop to sag; around 30mm is ideal.
- 8
Surface Preparation for Painting
≈ 20 minLightly sand entire surface again with #240 sandpaper before painting and remove dust with a damp cloth. For indoor use, use water-based urethane varnish, Watco Oil, or Briwax. For surfaces in contact with food, use coatings labeled compliant with the Food Sanitation Law for safety.
Sand#240SandSTEP 8 / 12Tip
- Water-based urethane varnish (matte or semi-gloss) is durable against water and heat and suitable for dining tables.
- Watco Oil maintains wood texture and results in a softer finish.
- Always perform test coating on scrap boards to confirm color before the actual application.
Watch out
- Glue residue repels paint; always sand with #240 to remove.
- Applying dusty surfaces leads to rough finish; clean thoroughly before painting.
- 9
First Coat of Paint
≈ 40 minApply paint over entire surface using a brush. Follow order: tabletop → apron boards → legs → underside; paint from larger to smaller surfaces. Brush in one direction along the grain for an even coat. For water-based urethane varnish, let dry about 3 hours; for Watco Oil, soak 15-20 minutes then wipe off excess and let dry 2 hours.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 9 / 12Tip
- Apply thin coats; for urethane varnish two thin coats are standard; thick coats cause bubbles and shrinkage.
- Always wipe off excess Watco Oil; remaining oil causes stickiness after drying.
- During drying, store in low dust environments.
Watch out
- Applying thick or gloppy varnish causes dripping and uneven drying.
- Drying in direct heat or draft causes surface to dry before inside, leading to incomplete curing.
- 10
Intermediate Sanding and Second Coat
≈ 40 minAfter the first coat is fully dry, lightly sand with #400 fine sandpaper. Remove dust and apply the second coat slightly thinner than the first. For dining tables, applying three coats for a thicker film is recommended; repeat intermediate sanding before the third coat.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 10 / 12Tip
- Intermediate sanding with #400 lightly smooths only surface fuzziness.
- Two coats significantly improve water resistance and abrasion durability - essential for dining tables.
- Three coats yield a harder, glossier finish resembling commercial tables.
Watch out
- Excessive intermediate sanding may remove the first coat.
- Touching the surface before drying leads to fingerprints and dust contamination; strictly observe 24-hour drying time.
- 11
Waiting for Complete Curing
≈ 10 minAfter painting, avoid placing heavy items on the table for at least 72 hours to allow complete curing. Water-based urethane varnish fully cures after one week. During this period, refrain from dining or working on the table and lightly cover it with cloth to prevent dust accumulation.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 11 / 12Tip
- Curing time varies by paint type; follow can instructions carefully.
- Check full cure by lightly pressing with fingernail—no indentation should remain.
- Drying time varies with temperature: 3-4 days in summer, over one week in winter.
Watch out
- Placing hot pots before curing damages the finish.
- Dropping dishes may chip the finish; handle with care until fully cured.
- 12
Attaching Leg Pads and Final Checks
≈ 20 minAttach felt pads to the bottoms of all four legs to protect floors. Move the table to its installation spot and check horizontality with a level. Adjust pad thickness if there is any wobbling. Place chairs and sit to confirm knees do not hit the apron boards.
Done!Done — nice work!DoneSTEP 12 / 12Tip
- Use 10mm thick felt pads to absorb floor irregularities.
- Felt pads suit hard floors (like flooring), rubber pads suit tatami floors.
- If wobbling persists, adjust by thinning pads at one leg.
Watch out
- Without pads, floor surfaces will be damaged by table weight.
- Incorrect height difference between chair and tabletop (270-300mm) leads to poor dining posture.
Warnings
- ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.
Custom design
Changing the dimensions roughly scales the cut list. Get the precise calculation in the app.
Enter dimensions (mm)
Quick estimateWidth W
Depth D
Height H
Base size 900×600×400 mm
Cut list (preview)
Total board length ≈ 10.4 m · Available at: カインズ / コメリ / コーナン / DCM
Accurate materials, prices, and cuts in the app
Per-retailer pricing, purchase links, and optimal cut layouts are auto-calculated in the app.
Examples23 examples
View all →Actual cost
¥4,671
Build time
2 h 2 min
Home center
カインズ
市販品ではしっくりこなかったので子供用ローダイニングテーブルを自分で組みました。賃貸でも置けるサイズで設計してます。ウリンを使ったので、初期費用は張りますが長期的にはこちらが安いと割り切ってます。ハードメープルは硬くて加工が大変ですが、傷が付きにくいので食卓向きです。結果には満足してます。
Actual cost
¥4,541
Build time
2 h 10 min
Home center
ロイヤルホームセンター
気になっていた子供用ローダイニングテーブルにようやく挑戦。一人暮らしなので一人で組み立てられる構造に。ウリンを使ったので、初期費用は張りますが長期的にはこちらが安いと割り切ってます。脚はホゾ組みで強度を確保。組んだ後の安定感が違います。ホームセンター店員さんに相談しながら進めたのが良かった。
Actual cost
¥6,713
Build time
2 h 48 min
Home center
コーナン
週末を使って子供用ローダイニングテーブルを作りました。マンション住まいなので搬入できる寸法を最優先。ハードウッド (ウリン) を選択。重さと固さに作業中泣かされました。天板はオイル仕上げ (ワトコ ナチュラル)。3 度塗りで木目がくっきり出ました。費用対効果も高くて満足です。
Actual cost
¥8,502
Build time
2 h 13 min
Home center
コーナン
週末を使って子供用ローダイニングテーブルを作りました。ハードウッド (ウリン) を選択。重さと固さに作業中泣かされました。ハードメープルは硬くて加工が大変ですが、傷が付きにくいので食卓向きです。家族にも好評で作って良かった。
Actual cost
¥6,792
Build time
1 h 28 min
Home center
ロイヤルホームセンター
今回は子供用ローダイニングテーブルにトライ。マンション住まいなので搬入できる寸法を最優先。ウリンを使ったので、初期費用は張りますが長期的にはこちらが安いと割り切ってます。天板はオイル仕上げ (ワトコ ナチュラル)。3 度塗りで木目がくっきり出ました。ホームセンター店員さんに相談しながら進めたのが良かった。
Actual cost
¥5,365
Build time
2 h 35 min
Home center
コメリ
子供用ローダイニングテーブルを自作しました。マンション住まいなので搬入できる寸法を最優先。脚はホゾ組みで強度を確保。組んだ後の安定感が違います。子供が触っても安全なように角は全部丸めてます。結果には満足してます。
Ratings
Comments4
- reika_子育てdiy2026/04/26

幕板を入れると剛性が一気に上がるのでおすすめです
- weekend_maker2026/04/26

オイル仕上げなら塗布前に240→320番で研磨するとサラサラの肌になります
- クレヨン工房_722026/04/26

天板の反り対策に吸い付き桟入れたいですが、SPFなら吸い付きアリ加工は不要かも
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