Dining table
6-Seater Dining Table
DIY blueprint for 6-Seater Dining Table.
Dimensions
Width (W)
1800mm
Depth (D)
900mm
Height (H)
720mm
Cut list
Tools you'll need
- ✓
Measuring Tape (5m or longer)
Used for measuring all parts
- ✓
Pencil and Carpenter's Square
For marking and checking right angles
- ✓
Saw
Using the home center's cutting service is recommended
- ✓
Electric Driver
Using an impact driver improves work efficiency
- ✓
Sandpaper
Prepare two types: #120 and #240 grit
- ✓
Level
Essential for checking levelness during assembly
- ✓
Clamps (2 or more)
Used for temporary fixing during joining
- ✓
Paint Brush and Paint Tray
For applying oil or varnish finish
Materials
Build steps
- 1
Measure and Confirm Installation Environment
≈ 15 minMeasure the installation location of the 6-person dining table (1800×900×720mm). Ensure there is space behind and in front when chairs are pulled out (chair depth + at least 400mm) and check the flow for placing dishes.
MeasureW 1800 mmMeasureSTEP 1 / 12Tip
- For a standard dining style, allot approximately 600mm width × 400mm depth per person.
- Table height 720mm assumes general dining chair seat height (420mm) plus 300mm clearance.
- Maintain at least 800mm distance from walls to allow chairs to be pulled out.
Watch out
- A tabletop sized 1200×700mm suits 4 people but can feel cramped in families serving large dishes.
- If chair backrests are overlooked during measuring, you may end up with a layout where entering and exiting is difficult.
- 2
Create a Cutting List and Order at Home Center
≈ 40 minPrepare 13 pieces of 2×6 lumber for the tabletop (38×140×1800mm), 4 legs using 2×4 lumber (38×89×682mm), 2 long aprons (38×89×1724mm), 2 short aprons (38×89×824mm). Prepare 60 coarse-thread screws of 75mm. Using the paid cutting service at the home center is convenient.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 2 / 12Tip
- 2×6 lumber measures an actual 38×140mm; note differences between nominal and actual sizes.
- Arranging 9 tabletop boards side by side equals 140×9=1260mm. Adding 3mm gaps between boards totals 1260+24=1284mm.
- The effective width of the tabletop is 9 boards ×140mm plus 8 gaps ×3mm =1284mm, exceeding 1800mm width, so adjust board counts or widths accordingly.
Watch out
- Selecting warped or twisted 2×6 boards will cause the tabletop to be wavy. Check each board carefully when purchasing.
- For legs: length 682mm = table height 720mm minus tabletop thickness 38mm. Specify actual measurement precisely to avoid cutting errors.
- 3
Sanding All Parts
≈ 50 minSand all parts in this order: #120→#180→#240 grit sandpaper. Sand the 2×6 tabletop boards carefully — repeatedly wipe the surface with a damp cloth to raise the grain, then after completely drying, finish sanding with #240 grit. This reduces staining during meals.
Sand#120 → #180 → #240SandSTEP 3 / 12Tip
- No splinters allowed on dining surfaces that contact food; confirm by feeling with fingertips.
- The wetting-drying-sanding process reduces raised fibers after use.
- Using an orbital sander can save time; consider rental services.
Watch out
- Forgetting to chamfer edges will cause clothes or skin to catch, especially at child face height.
- Sanding produces a lot of dust; do this in a well-ventilated area like a balcony or garage.
- 4
Temporary Assembly of Legs and Aprons (Frame Construction)
≈ 45 minPosition the four legs, then place the long and short aprons 50mm down from the top end of the legs. Attach the aprons outside each leg, driving two 75mm coarse-thread screws at each joint after drilling φ5mm pilot holes on the apron side to prevent splitting. Success is achieving a rectangular frame. Use a carpenter's square to confirm right angles at all corners.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 4 / 12Tip
- Attaching aprons outside the legs improves appearance; inside attachment increases strength and contact with the tabletop.
- Drilling φ5mm pilot holes in aprons before screwing prevents splitting of 2×4 lumber.
- Completing square corners is critical for proper tabletop fit.
Watch out
- Driving 75mm screws without pilot holes easily splits 2×4 lumber.
- Inconsistent leg orientation (knots, wood grain) leads to uneven appearance.
- 5
Check Frame for Right Angles and Diagonals
≈ 15 minPlace the assembled frame on a flat floor and check that all four legs contact the floor evenly (no wobble). Measure the internal diagonal lengths with a tape measure ensuring discrepancies are within 2mm. If misaligned, loosen screws and use clamps to adjust along the diagonal before retightening.
InspectNo wobble ✓InspectSTEP 5 / 12Tip
- Measurement values will be incorrect if floor is uneven; work on a level surface.
- If diagonal difference exceeds 5mm, the tabletop will seat at an angle; keep under 2mm.
- Wobble occurs if only one leg is off the ground; adjust until all four legs are solid.
Watch out
- Ignoring frame distortion causes the tabletop to float or corners to misalign.
- Low-quality carpenter squares may be off by over 0.5°, causing issues.
- 6
Assemble the Tabletop
≈ 40 minLine up 9 pieces of 2×6 lumber for the tabletop on a workbench with the wood grain direction aligned. Insert 3mm-thick bamboo chopsticks between boards to provide breathing gaps. Attach two 2×4 lumber reinforcing battens on the backside using wood glue and 45mm coarse-thread screws to unify the tabletop.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 6 / 12Tip
- Alternating the grain direction (growth ring orientation) of boards offsets warping and reduces cracking.
- Place battens 200mm inside from the tabletop edges for aesthetics.
- 45mm screws do not penetrate the 38mm thickness of the boards; confirm actual length.
Watch out
- Tightly closing gaps causes tabletop swelling and warping from moisture; always maintain 3mm breathing space.
- Incorrectly attaching battens at angles causes overall tabletop distortion; check right angles with a square.
- 7
Attach Tabletop to Frame
≈ 30 minPlace the tabletop on the frame and confirm balanced overhangs on all sides (about 30mm). Drill φ5mm pilot holes from the aprons into the tabletop underside, then drive 75mm coarse-thread screws: 4 screws from each long apron and 2 from each short apron, totaling 12 screws to fix the tabletop securely.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 7 / 12Tip
- An overhang of 30-50mm will not obstruct dining movements.
- Drive screws toward the inside edge of the aprons, not dead center, to reduce splitting.
- Screw length should not exceed apron thickness plus 20mm, to avoid penetrating tabletop surface.
Watch out
- Driving 75mm screws without pilot holes and countersinking can cause screw heads to protrude on the tabletop surface.
- Excessive overhang above 50mm causes the tabletop to sag; about 30mm is ideal.
- 8
Prepare Surface for Finishing
≈ 20 minLightly sand the entire table again with #240 grit sandpaper before painting. Remove dust with a damp cloth. Use indoor finishes such as water-based urethane varnish, Watco Oil, or Briwax. For surfaces in contact with food, use finishes labeled as compliant with food sanitation laws for safety.
Sand#240SandSTEP 8 / 12Tip
- Matte or semi-gloss water-based urethane varnish is durable and heat resistant, ideal for dining tables.
- Watco Oil maintains wood texture with a soft finish.
- Always conduct a test application on scrap wood to confirm color.
Watch out
- Glue areas repel paint; sand with #240 grit to remove residue.
- Residual dust causes rough surface; clean thoroughly before finishing.
- 9
First Coat of Finish
≈ 40 minApply finish evenly with a brush over all surfaces in order: tabletop, aprons, legs, then underside. Stroke along the grain in one direction to avoid brush marks. For water-based urethane varnish, let dry about 3 hours. For Watco Oil, soak on for 15-20 minutes, then wipe off excess and dry for 2 hours.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 9 / 12Tip
- Apply thin coats; two coats recommended for urethane varnish. Thick coats cause bubbles and shrinking.
- Always wipe off excess Watco Oil to avoid tackiness after drying.
- Keep drying area free from dust.
Watch out
- Applying thick varnish causes drips and uneven drying.
- Drying near direct heat causes surface to dry too fast and remain tacky underneath; allow natural drying.
- 10
Intermediate Sanding and Second Coat
≈ 40 minOnce the first coat is fully dry, gently sand the surface with #400 ultra-fine sandpaper (intermediate sanding). Remove dust and apply the second coat thinner than the first. For dining tables, applying three coats with an additional sanding step increases finish durability.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 10 / 12Tip
- Intermediate sanding with #400 grit only smooths grain raise lightly.
- Two coats greatly improve water and abrasion resistance; essential for dining tables.
- Three coats create a hard, glossy industrial table finish.
Watch out
- Too heavy sanding can peel off the first coat.
- Touching before drying causes fingerprints and dust adhesion; observe a 24-hour dry time.
- 11
Wait for Finish to Fully Cure
≈ 10 minAfter finishing, allow at least 72 hours before placing heavy items. Water-based urethane varnish fully cures in about one week. Avoid using the table for dining or work during this time and cover lightly with cloth to prevent dust.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 11 / 12Tip
- Cure times vary by finish; strictly follow manufacturer instructions.
- Fully cured finish resists denting when gently pressed with fingernail.
- Drying time varies by temperature: 3-4 days in summer, over one week in winter.
Watch out
- Placing hot pots on uncured finish melts and marks the surface.
- Dropping dishes can chip uncured finish; handle carefully until cured.
- 12
Attach Leg Pads and Final Checks
≈ 20 minAttach felt pads to the bottoms of all four legs to protect flooring from scratches. Move the table to its final place and use a level to confirm balance. If wobbling occurs, adjust the thickness of the pads. Place chairs and test seating to ensure knees do not hit the aprons.
Done!Done — nice work!DoneSTEP 12 / 12Tip
- Felt pads about 10mm thick absorb floor unevenness.
- Use felt pads on hard floors, rubber pads on tatami mats.
- If wobble persists, adjust a single pad with thinner material.
Watch out
- Using the table without pads can damage floors due to weight.
- Incorrect chair to table height difference (270-300mm clearance) leads to poor dining posture.
Warnings
- ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.
Custom design
Changing the dimensions roughly scales the cut list. Get the precise calculation in the app.
Enter dimensions (mm)
Quick estimateWidth W
Depth D
Height H
Base size 1800×900×720 mm
Cut list (preview)
Total board length ≈ 31.2 m · Available at: カインズ / コメリ / コーナン / DCM
Accurate materials, prices, and cuts in the app
Per-retailer pricing, purchase links, and optimal cut layouts are auto-calculated in the app.
Examples20 examples
View all →Actual cost
¥43,377
Build time
6 h 36 min
Home center
コーナン
週末を使って6人掛けダイニングテーブルを作りました。ウリンを使ったので、初期費用は張りますが長期的にはこちらが安いと割り切ってます。天板はオイル仕上げ (ワトコ ナチュラル)。3 度塗りで木目がくっきり出ました。結果には満足してます。
Actual cost
¥36,722
Build time
11 h 23 min
Home center
コーナン
市販品ではしっくりこなかったので6人掛けダイニングテーブルを自分で組みました。ハードメープルは硬くて加工が大変ですが、傷が付きにくいので食卓向きです。完成までトータル 1 ヶ月、ゆるゆる進めて楽しかったです。
Actual cost
¥47,733
Build time
12 h 31 min
Home center
ロイヤルホームセンター
6人掛けダイニングテーブルを自作しました。賃貸でも置けるサイズで設計してます。脚はホゾ組みで強度を確保。組んだ後の安定感が違います。結果には満足してます。
Actual cost
¥50,344
Build time
7 h 3 min
Home center
ロイヤルホームセンター
6人掛けダイニングテーブルを自作しました。天板はオイル仕上げ (ワトコ ナチュラル)。3 度塗りで木目がくっきり出ました。想定以上に綺麗に仕上がって、自分でもびっくり。
Actual cost
¥21,539
Build time
7 h 2 min
Home center
DCM
6人掛けダイニングテーブルを自作しました。メイン材は今回もイタウバ。雨ざらしでも 10 年は安心です。ハードメープルは硬くて加工が大変ですが、傷が付きにくいので食卓向きです。家族にも好評で作って良かった。
Actual cost
¥29,830
Build time
11 h 55 min
Home center
DCM
週末を使って6人掛けダイニングテーブルを作りました。一人暮らしなので一人で組み立てられる構造に。メイン材は今回もイタウバ。雨ざらしでも 10 年は安心です。脚はホゾ組みで強度を確保。組んだ後の安定感が違います。次は別のサイズで再チャレンジ予定です。
Ratings
Comments3
- mokkou_pdf_612026/04/26

幕板を太めにして天板裏で雇い実継ぎすると、長年使っても歪みにくいです
- Tomoko / トモコ2026/04/26

脚の固定が難しそうなんですが、ボンド+ビスでいけますか?
- 素人大工_432026/04/26

オイル仕上げなら塗布前に240→320番で研磨するとサラサラの肌になります
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