Dining table
Cafe-Style Dining Table
DIY blueprint for Cafe-Style Dining Table.
Dimensions
Width (W)
800mm
Depth (D)
700mm
Height (H)
720mm
Cut list
Tools you'll need
- ✓
Measuring Tape (5m or longer)
Used for measuring each part.
- ✓
Pencil and Carpenter's Square
For marking lines and checking right angles.
- ✓
Saw
Home center cutting service is recommended.
- ✓
Electric Driver
Impact driver improves work efficiency.
- ✓
Sandpaper
Prepare two types: #120 and #240.
- ✓
Level
Essential for checking horizontality during assembly.
- ✓
Clamps (2 or more)
Used for temporary fixation during joining.
- ✓
Brush and Paint Tray
Used for oil and varnish finishing.
Materials
Build steps
- 1
Measure and Confirm Installation Environment
≈ 15 minMeasure the installation location for the cafe-style dining table (800×700×720mm). Ensure there is enough space in front and behind for sitting with the chair pulled out (chair depth + at least 400mm) and confirm the serving route for dishes.
MeasureW 800 mmMeasureSTEP 1 / 12Tip
- For a standard dining style, allocate approximately 600mm width × 400mm depth per person.
- Table height 720mm assumes typical dining chair seat height (420mm) plus 300mm clearance.
- Maintain at least 800mm distance to the wall so chairs can be pulled out.
Watch out
- A 1200×700mm table top is standard for 4 people but may feel cramped in households with many large dishes.
- Failing to account for chair backrest thickness during measurement can result in an unusable layout.
- 2
Create Cut List and Order at Home Center
≈ 40 minPrepare six pieces of 2x6 lumber for table top (38×140×800mm), four pieces of 2x4 lumber for legs (38×89×682mm), two pieces of long apron board (38×89×724mm), and two pieces of short apron board (38×89×624mm). Also prepare 60 coarse-thread screws 75mm long. Using the home center's paid cutting service is convenient.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 2 / 12Tip
- The actual dimensions of 2x6 lumber are 38×140mm; note the difference from nominal sizes.
- Arranging 9 table boards at 140mm each totals 1260mm. Even with 3mm gaps between each, total width becomes 1284mm, exceeding 800mm width.
- Effective table top width with 9 boards and 8 gaps of 3mm each is 1284mm, necessitating adjustment of board number or width.
Watch out
- Selecting warped or twisted 2x6 boards causes the table top to ripple; visually check each board at purchase.
- Specify actual length (682mm) for leg material cutting to avoid errors — height 720mm minus table top thickness 38mm.
- 3
Sand All Materials
≈ 50 minSand with #120, then #180, then #240 sandpaper sequentially. Particularly sand the 2x6 lumber for the table top carefully—wipe the surface with a damp cloth repeatedly to raise the grain, dry completely, then finish with #240 for better stain resistance during meals.
Sand#120SandSTEP 3 / 12Tip
- No splinters allowed on dining surfaces; verify smoothness by running the pad of your finger over the surface.
- The water-wiping and drying process ('raising the grain') reduces fuzz after sanding.
- Using an orbital sander can save time; consider rental services.
Watch out
- Forgetting to chamfer edges causes snags on clothing or skin, especially at child face height.
- Sanding produces large amounts of dust; perform in well-ventilated areas such as balconies or garages.
- 4
Temporary Assembly of Legs and Aprons (Frame Construction)
≈ 45 minPlace the four legs with a 50mm setback from their top ends, then position long and short apron boards on the outside of the legs. Attach each joint with two 75mm coarse-thread screws per connection. A rectangular frame indicates success. Always check right angles at all corners with a carpenter's square.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 4 / 12Tip
- Apron placement outside legs looks better but attaching inside gives stronger contact with the tabletop.
- Drill φ5mm pilot holes in the apron boards before screwing to prevent leg wood splitting.
- Right angle accuracy at joints directly affects fitting the tabletop later.
Watch out
- Driving 75mm screws without pilot holes easily splits 2x4 lumber.
- If leg orientations (knots and grain direction) are not uniform, appearance will be inconsistent.
- 5
Check Frame Right Angles and Diagonals
≈ 15 minPlace the assembled frame on a flat floor and check that all four legs contact the floor (no wobble). Measure inner diagonal lengths with two tape measures — ensure difference is within 2mm. If skewed, loosen screws, correct with clamps along the diagonal, then retighten.
InspectNo wobble ✓InspectSTEP 5 / 12Tip
- Uneven floors distort measurements; perform on level floors.
- More than 5mm diagonal difference makes the tabletop sit unevenly. Keep within 2mm.
- Wobble occurs if one leg does not touch; adjust until all legs sit flat.
Watch out
- Ignoring frame distortion causes the tabletop to lift or misalign at edges.
- Low-quality carpenter squares can have more than 0.5° error affecting accuracy.
- 6
Assemble Tabletop
≈ 40 minLay nine 2x6 tabletop boards side by side on a workbench, aligning grain direction. Insert 3mm thick chopsticks between boards to maintain breathability gaps. Attach two 2x4 reinforcement battens underneath with wood glue and 45mm coarse-thread screws to unify the top.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 6 / 12Tip
- Alternate grain orientation (heart side) between boards to counteract warping and reduce cracking.
- Battens should be positioned 200mm from tabletop edges for aesthetics.
- 45mm screws must not penetrate through 38mm thick top; confirm lengths by measurement.
Watch out
- Closing gaps fully causes tabletop swelling and warping in humid conditions; always leave 3mm breathing gap.
- If battens are attached crookedly, the entire tabletop will warp; confirm right angles with carpenter's square.
- 7
Attach Tabletop to Frame
≈ 30 minPlace the tabletop on the frame and check balance front, back, left, and right, aiming for about 30mm overhang in all directions. Drill φ5mm pilot holes from apron boards up into tabletop underside, and fasten with 75mm coarse-thread screws; 4 screws on long aprons and 2 on short aprons, totaling 12 screws.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 7 / 12Tip
- An overhang of 30-50mm does not impede dining movements.
- Drive screws slightly inward from the apron center to reduce wood splitting.
- Screw length should not exceed apron thickness plus 20mm to avoid penetrating the tabletop.
Watch out
- Driving 75mm screws without pilot holes and countersinking can cause screw heads to protrude on tabletop surface.
- Too large overhang (over 50mm) causes tabletop sagging; about 30mm is appropriate.
- 8
Prepare Surface Before Painting
≈ 20 minLightly sand the entire table with #240 sandpaper before finishing and wipe off dust with a damp cloth. Use water-based urethane varnish, Watco Oil, Briwax, etc. For surfaces contacting food, use coatings compliant with food sanitation laws for safety.
Sand#240SandSTEP 8 / 12Tip
- Water-based urethane varnish (matte or semi-gloss) is water and heat resistant, suitable for dining tables.
- Watco Oil retains wood texture, yielding a soft finish.
- Always test coating on scrap wood to confirm color before application.
Watch out
- Glue spots repel coatings; always sand such areas with #240 first.
- Dust left on the surface before coating causes rough finish; clean thoroughly.
- 9
First Coat of Finish
≈ 40 minApply finish with a brush evenly over all surfaces in order: tabletop, aprons, legs, then underside. Brush along the grain in one direction to avoid brush marks. For water-based urethane varnish, wait about 3 hours between coats. For Watco Oil, soak for 15-20 minutes, wipe excess, then dry for 2 hours.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 9 / 12Tip
- Apply thin coats twice for urethane varnish; thick coats cause bubbles and shrinkage.
- Always wipe off excess Watco Oil to prevent sticky finish after drying.
- Keep coated pieces in dust-free areas while drying.
Watch out
- Applying thick varnish causes runs and uneven drying.
- Drying with direct heat causes surface skinning but leaves inner layers wet; allow natural drying.
- 10
Intermediate Sanding and Second Coat
≈ 40 minAfter the first coat is fully dry, lightly sand with #400 ultra-fine sandpaper ('intermediate sanding'). Remove dust and apply the second coat thinner than the first. For three coats, repeat intermediate sanding once more to build a thicker protective film for dining use.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 10 / 12Tip
- #400 sanding only smooths surface fuzz without removing coating.
- Two coats significantly improve waterproofing and abrasion resistance; essential for dining tables.
- Three coats yield a hard, glossy, professional table finish.
Watch out
- Excessive sanding removes the first coat.
- Touching wet finish causes fingerprints and dust marks; observe at least 24-hour drying time.
- 11
Wait for Finish to Cure Completely
≈ 10 minAfter finishing, do not place heavy objects on the table for at least 72 hours to allow complete curing. Water-based urethane varnish fully cures in one week. Avoid eating or working on the table and lightly cover it with cloth to prevent dust during this period.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 11 / 12Tip
- Curing time varies by finish type; strictly follow the label instructions.
- Confirm complete cure by pressing with fingernail; no indentations indicate cure.
- Curing time varies with temperature: 3-4 days in summer, over a week in winter.
Watch out
- Placing hot pots before cure melts finish and leaves marks.
- Dropping dishes can chip the finish; handle carefully until cured.
- 12
Attach Leg Pads and Final Checks
≈ 20 minStick felt pads on all four leg bottoms to prevent floor damage. Move the table to the installation site and use a level to confirm horizontality. Adjust pad thickness if wobble exists. Place chairs and sit to check knees do not hit apron boards.
Done!Done — nice work!DoneSTEP 12 / 12Tip
- 10mm thick felt pads absorb floor unevenness.
- Use felt pads for hard floors (wood flooring) and rubber pads for tatami mats.
- If wobble remains, adjust by using thinner pads on one leg.
Watch out
- Using without pads can damage floors due to table weight.
- Knee clearance (difference) should be 270-300mm for comfortable dining posture.
Warnings
- ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.
Custom design
Changing the dimensions roughly scales the cut list. Get the precise calculation in the app.
Enter dimensions (mm)
Quick estimateWidth W
Depth D
Height H
Base size 800×700×720 mm
Cut list (preview)
Total board length ≈ 10.2 m · Available at: カインズ / コメリ / コーナン / DCM
Accurate materials, prices, and cuts in the app
Per-retailer pricing, purchase links, and optimal cut layouts are auto-calculated in the app.
Examples11 examples
View all →Actual cost
¥10,228
Build time
7 h 19 min
Home center
コメリ
今回はカフェ風ダイニングテーブルにトライ。ウリンを使ったので、初期費用は張りますが長期的にはこちらが安いと割り切ってます。脚はホゾ組みで強度を確保。組んだ後の安定感が違います。結果には満足してます。
Actual cost
¥14,259
Build time
6 h 52 min
Home center
DCM
市販品ではしっくりこなかったのでカフェ風ダイニングテーブルを自分で組みました。ウリンを使ったので、初期費用は張りますが長期的にはこちらが安いと割り切ってます。ハードメープルは硬くて加工が大変ですが、傷が付きにくいので食卓向きです。塗料は食品衛生法適合品。子供がなめても大丈夫なものに統一。完成までトータル 1 ヶ月、ゆるゆる進めて楽しかったです。
Actual cost
¥10,647
Build time
7 h 50 min
Home center
DCM
週末を使ってカフェ風ダイニングテーブルを作りました。天板はオイル仕上げ (ワトコ ナチュラル)。3 度塗りで木目がくっきり出ました。この作品で DIY のモチベがまた上がりました。
Actual cost
¥22,518
Build time
6 h 21 min
Home center
コメリ
カフェ風ダイニングテーブルを自作しました。天板はオイル仕上げ (ワトコ ナチュラル)。3 度塗りで木目がくっきり出ました。ホームセンター店員さんに相談しながら進めたのが良かった。
Actual cost
¥11,970
Build time
7 h 26 min
Home center
ロイヤルホームセンター
今回はカフェ風ダイニングテーブルにトライ。一人暮らしなので一人で組み立てられる構造に。ハードメープルは硬くて加工が大変ですが、傷が付きにくいので食卓向きです。ホームセンター店員さんに相談しながら進めたのが良かった。
Actual cost
¥12,096
Build time
4 h 39 min
Home center
コーナン
気になっていたカフェ風ダイニングテーブルにようやく挑戦。ウリンを使ったので、初期費用は張りますが長期的にはこちらが安いと割り切ってます。天板はオイル仕上げ (ワトコ ナチュラル)。3 度塗りで木目がくっきり出ました。費用対効果も高くて満足です。
Ratings
Comments5
- Saori2026/04/26

幕板を太めにして天板裏で雇い実継ぎすると、長年使っても歪みにくいです
- Hayatoハードウッド2026/04/26

幕板を入れると剛性が一気に上がるのでおすすめです
- reika_子育てdiy2026/04/26

オイル仕上げなら塗布前に240→320番で研磨するとサラサラの肌になります
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