Dog house
Dog House with Deck
DIY blueprint for Dog House with Deck.
Dimensions
Width (W)
1500mm
Depth (D)
800mm
Height (H)
800mm
Cut list
Tools you'll need
- ✓
Measuring Tape (5m or longer)
Used for measuring all parts.
- ✓
Pencil and Carpenter's Square
Marking and checking right angles.
- ✓
Saw
Home center cutting service usage recommended.
- ✓
Electric Driver
Impact driver improves work efficiency.
- ✓
Sandpaper
Prepare #120 and #240 types.
- ✓
Level
Essential for checking horizontal alignment during assembly.
- ✓
Clamps (2 or more)
Used for temporary fixing during joining.
- ✓
Brush and Paint Tray
Used for applying wood preservative coating.
Materials
Build steps
- 1
Measuring and Confirming Installation Location
≈ 15 minMeasure the installation site for the dog house with wooden deck (1500×800×800mm). Confirm width of space, a walkway clearance of at least 600mm, and door opening range.
MeasureW 1500 mmMeasureSTEP 1 / 13Tip
- Position to avoid directly under rain gutters or over drainage.
- Leave at least 20mm gap between walls and furniture for easier cleaning.
- Avoid boundaries between wooden deck or soil and ground boards to prevent wobbling.
Watch out
- Cannot install if space is insufficient for 1500mm width; prior measurement is critical.
- Outdoor locations with frequent foot traffic pose tripping risks if placement protrudes.
- 2
Creating Cut List for Materials
≈ 30 minCut cedar boards (19mm thick) into front and rear boards (19×120×1800mm) ×14 each, side boards (19×120×800mm) ×14 each. Bottom board is Lauan plywood 12mm (12×762×1462mm) ×1. Corner posts are 2×4 lumber (38×89×800mm) ×4. Home center paid cut service is convenient.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 2 / 13Tip
- Select cedar boards individually due to variation in knots and warping.
- 500mm length for corner posts includes height of front/rear boards (120×4 =480) plus 20mm clearance.
- When using cut service, specifying grain alignment improves appearance.
Watch out
- Cedar board end grain absorbs water readily; apply wood preservative thoroughly later.
- 2×4 lumber actual size is 38×89 mm. Specify '38×89' when ordering cuts (nominal size differs).
- 3
Sanding All Materials
≈ 40 minSand with #120 then #240 sandpaper in order. Cedar boards are soft and prone to warping or splintering; carefully sand end grain and surface. Chamfer corner posts to make edges smooth to avoid catching shoes or bumping feet.
Sand#120SandSTEP 3 / 13Tip
- Sand with wood grain direction to avoid splinters, as cedar fibers are coarse.
- Flat sand end grain first with #120 then finish with #240. Skipping this causes uneven paint absorption.
- Using an orbital sander reduces sanding time by two-thirds. Rental services available.
Watch out
- Sanding produces large dust amounts; work in ventilated areas such as balconies or garages.
- Do not paint before removing sanding dust; use air duster or damp cloth to clean surface.
- 4
Raising and Temporarily Fixing Corner Posts
≈ 25 minStand 4 pieces of 2×4 lumber vertically, lining up at four corners of workbench. Temporarily clamp to workbench to keep level. Use level to check vertical alignment. Measure spacing so inside dimensions are front-to-back 600mm and left-to-right 300mm with tape.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 4 / 13Tip
- Check vertical with level on two surfaces (front and side) aiming for zero deviation.
- For uneven concrete or cushioned floors, place plywood underneath to make a flat workspace.
- Align knot orientation on all 4 posts for better appearance when placing.
Watch out
- If even one post is not vertical, assembled boards will be tilted in final product.
- When measuring spacing, be consistent measuring inside or outside edges; inconsistency causes 5-10mm error.
- 5
Attaching Front and Rear Boards (from bottom)
≈ 40 minPosition first cedar board horizontally at bottom front side. Apply wood glue on both corner posts then fix with coarse-thread screws 65mm; two screws per post (4 total per board). From second board upwards, leave ventilation slit of 5mm (one chopstick thickness). Use 5 boards for front and 5 for rear.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 5 / 13Tip
- 5mm ventilation slit prevents shoe moisture accumulation; tight adhesion causes mold.
- Insert chopstick between boards to keep slit uniform.
- Drill 4mm pilot holes in corner posts before screwing to avoid wood splitting.
Watch out
- Screwing without pilot holes will split cedar boards; always drill pilot holes.
- Overdriving screws creates indentations in board surface; stop screw flush with board face.
- 6
Attaching Side Boards (Left and Right)
≈ 35 minAttach side boards (19×120×800mm) ×14 on both sides similarly, leaving ventilation slits. Attach 5 boards per side. Adjust front and rear boards positions so end grains meet exactly at corners. Measure diagonal lengths with tape, equalize them and fix while proceeding.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 6 / 13Tip
- If diagonal lengths don't match, structure will be distorted into a parallelogram; use clamps to correct until equal.
- Side boards are set inside front and rear boards; offset pilot hole positions slightly from front/rear board edge.
- For neat corner joints, pre-cut corner posts' edges at 45 degrees before fixing.
Watch out
- Mismatched ventilation slit positions between front/rear and side boards look uneven.
- Diagonal measurement error over 5mm impedes smooth storage fit.
- 7
Bottom Board Processing and Attachment
≈ 25 minOn Lauan plywood bottom board (262×562mm), drill nine evenly placed ventilation holes (20mm diameter) in a 3×3 grid. Keep holes at least 50mm from edges and 100mm apart. Insert bottom into lower box frame and fix to 4 corner posts with coarse-thread screws (45mm).
Drill a hole下穴 φ3.5mmDrillSTEP 7 / 13Tip
- Vent holes are vital for shoe sole moisture ventilation; do not reduce quantity.
- Hole saw provides cleaner holes, though wood drill bit works.
- Bottom side facing ground is not visible externally; edge tape not required.
Watch out
- If bottom board warps, it won't contact posts closely; check flatness beforehand and screw from opposite side to correct large warp.
- Vent holes too close to edge weaken bottom board strength; keep over 50mm margin.
- 8
Final Confirmation of Right Angles and Diagonal Lengths
≈ 15 minCheck all inner angles of assembled box with carpenter's square to verify 90 degrees. Measure both diagonals with tape; difference must be within 2mm. If misaligned, loosen screws, correct with clamps, then re-tighten.
InspectNo wobble ✓InspectSTEP 8 / 13Tip
- Diagonal difference indicates assembly error; within 2mm is acceptable for practical use.
- Check on a level surface as uneven floors give inaccurate readings.
- Feel all screws by hand to ensure none are loose or improperly fixed.
Watch out
- Ignoring distortion causes door (lid) operation difficulty.
- Loose screws lead to wobbling or structural failure under shoe load.
- 9
Painting Preparation and Sanding
≈ 15 minLightly sand entire surface with #240 sandpaper before painting; remove dust with wet cloth. Even out unevenness around screw heads and end grain. Suitable outdoor paints include Xyladecor or Osmo color.
Sand#240SandSTEP 9 / 13Tip
- Cedar absorbs paint heavily; plan for two coats.
- Apply more paint on end grain where fibers are exposed and absorbent.
- Apply Xyladecor by rubbing with cloth for even finish better than brush.
Watch out
- Rough sanding causes uneven paint or fuzziness.
- Painting over dust leaves a rough texture.
- 10
First Coat Painting
≈ 30 minApply Xyladecor or water-based paint all over with brush or rag along wood grain direction. Let soak 15-20 minutes then wipe excess with dry cloth. Paint ventilation slits by brushing diagonally to prevent missing spots. Let dry naturally for over 2 hours.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 10 / 13Tip
- 'Apply and wipe' method brings out wood grain texture with Xyladecor.
- Remove paint buildup in slits as it prolongs drying; wipe by rubbing.
- Work outdoors or well-ventilated space to dissipate volatile odors.
Watch out
- Forgotten wiping leaves stickiness for days; always wipe with dry cloth.
- Thick coats cause uneven drying and later peeling; thin two-coat application is essential.
- 11
Intermediate Sanding and Second Coat Painting
≈ 25 minAfter first coat dries, lightly sand surface with #320 sandpaper (intermediate sanding). Remove dust then apply second coat thinner than first, wiping off similarly. Allow 24 hours for full curing.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 11 / 13Tip
- Intermediate sanding smooths fuzz without removing paint layer.
- Second coat significantly improves wood preservation; do not skip.
- Dry paint in low dust environment.
Watch out
- Excessive intermediate sanding removes first coat paint.
- Skipping second coat halves protection, especially outdoors where moisture exposure is high.
- 12
Foot Pads and Waterproofing Measures
≈ 15 minAttach felt pads or non-slip rubber to bottom ends of corner posts. When placing directly on ground, raise 10cm on bricks or blocks. For tile floors, silicone pads prevent slipping.
Fix to the wallAnchor to studsInstallSTEP 12 / 13Tip
- Felt pads absorb water and get dirty; rubber or silicone recommended for outdoor placement.
- Pads are essential on all four corner posts; skipping center causes tilting.
- Observe for 1 week after installation; continue ventilation until paint volatile odors dissipate.
Watch out
- No pads cause floor scratches and slipping on wet floors.
- Some silicone pad adhesives are weak; commercially bought pads with double-sided tape are more reliable.
- 13
Final Inspection and Shoe Storage
≈ 15 minCheck all screws tightened, ventilation slits uniform, and paint finish smooth. Use level to check for wobbling; adjust pad thickness to level. Avoid heavy load on the house for 1 week until paint fully cures. Store shoes dry inside.
Done!Done — nice work!DoneSTEP 13 / 13Tip
- Wipe wet shoes before storing to prevent moisture build-up.
- Store shoes up to 80% capacity for optimal ventilation.
- Ventilate monthly by taking all shoes out and drying with fan for durability.
Watch out
- Placing wet shoes before paint cures leaves shoe marks in paint film.
- Overfilling distorts boards when forcing shoes inside.
Warnings
- ⚠️Apply wood preservative coating for outdoor use (recoating recommended annually).
- ⚠️Use stainless steel screws (steel screws will rust).
- ⚠️Drill pilot holes before screwing to prevent wood splitting.
- ⚠️Use pet-safe paint (water-based urethane paint recommended).
- ⚠️Set foundation stones level (tilting causes joist distortion).
Custom design
Changing the dimensions roughly scales the cut list. Get the precise calculation in the app.
Enter dimensions (mm)
Quick estimateWidth W
Depth D
Height H
Base size 1500×800×800 mm
Cut list (preview)
Total board length ≈ 36.9 m · Available at: カインズ / コメリ / コーナン / DCM
Accurate materials, prices, and cuts in the app
Per-retailer pricing, purchase links, and optimal cut layouts are auto-calculated in the app.
Examples5 examples
View all →Actual cost
¥26,373
Build time
8 h 53 min
Home center
ロイヤルホームセンター
犬用ウッドデッキ付き犬小屋を自作しました。床は高床式 (脚 100mm) にして湿気から守る設計。ホームセンター店員さんに相談しながら進めたのが良かった。
Actual cost
¥46,582
Build time
13 h 50 min
Home center
コーナン
犬用ウッドデッキ付き犬小屋を自作しました。屋根は片流れ。雨の侵入を防ぐため軒を 100mm 出してます。想定以上に綺麗に仕上がって、自分でもびっくり。
Actual cost
¥20,518
Build time
15 h 25 min
Home center
コメリ
市販品ではしっくりこなかったので犬用ウッドデッキ付き犬小屋を自分で組みました。屋根は片流れ。雨の侵入を防ぐため軒を 100mm 出してます。想定以上に綺麗に仕上がって、自分でもびっくり。
Actual cost
¥21,621
Build time
11 h 50 min
Home center
DCM
今回は犬用ウッドデッキ付き犬小屋にトライ。屋根は片流れ。雨の侵入を防ぐため軒を 100mm 出してます。想定以上に綺麗に仕上がって、自分でもびっくり。
Actual cost
¥44,089
Build time
12 h 54 min
Home center
DCM
犬用ウッドデッキ付き犬小屋を自作しました。床は高床式 (脚 100mm) にして湿気から守る設計。完成までトータル 1 ヶ月、ゆるゆる進めて楽しかったです。
Ratings
Comments6
- 父子DIY_942026/04/26

ペット用は仕上げにオイルじゃなく無塗装+蜜蝋ワックスがおすすめです
- Hidekiハードウッド2026/04/26

猫タワーは支柱が一番荷重かかるので、根本の固定はビス4本+ボンドが安心
- Saori2026/04/26

犬小屋は屋根を傾斜にすると雨水の溜まりが防げます
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