Raised Roofed Dog House

Dimensions

Cut list

Tools you'll need

• ✓

  Measuring Tape (5m or longer)

  Used for measuring each part.

• ✓

  Pencil and Carpenter's Square

  Used for marking lines and checking right angles.

• ✓

  Saw

  Home center cutting service is recommended.

• ✓

  Electric Screwdriver

  Impact driver improves work efficiency.

• ✓

  Sandpaper

  Prepare #120 and #240 grit.

• ✓

  Level

  Essential for checking horizontality during assembly.

• ✓

  Clamps (2 or more)

  Used for temporary fixing during joining.

• ✓

  Brush and Paint Tray

  Used for applying wood preservative.

Materials

Build steps

1. 1

   Measuring and Confirming Installation Location

   ≈ 15 min

   Measure the installation area for the elevated roofed dog house (800×700×900mm). Confirm the width of the space, ensure a passage clearance of at least 600mm, and check the range of door opening.

   Measure

   W 800 mm

   MeasureSTEP 1 / 13

   Tip

   • Place it so that it is not directly under rain gutters or over drains.
   • Leave at least a 20mm gap between walls and furniture for easier cleaning.
   • Avoid boundaries between wood decks and soil as it can cause instability.

   Watch out

   • If the installation space is less than 800mm wide, installation is impossible. Prior measurement is crucial.
   • Outdoor locations with frequent foot traffic pose a tripping hazard if placed protruding on the floor.
2. 2

   Creating Cut List for Parts

   ≈ 30 min

   Cut 19mm thick cedar boards into front and rear boards (19×120×800mm) ×16 sheets, side boards (19×120×700mm) ×16 sheets. Prepare one 12mm thick lauan plywood bottom board (12×662×762mm). Cut four 2×4 lumber corner posts (38×89×900mm). Using paid cutting service at a home center is convenient.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 2 / 13

   Tip

   • Select cedar boards individually to avoid knots and warping as these vary greatly.
   • The 900mm length of corner posts includes the height of front/rear boards stacked (120×4=480mm) plus a 20mm margin.
   • When using cutting service, specifying aligned grain direction improves appearance.

   Watch out

   • The cut ends (wood ends) of cedar boards absorb water easily; apply preservative thoroughly later.
   • Note that 2×4 lumber actual size is 38×89mm; specify '38×89' when ordering cuts, as nominal size differs from actual.
3. 3

   Sanding All Parts

   ≈ 40 min

   Sand all parts in order with #120 grit then #240 grit sandpaper. Cedar boards are soft and tend to warp or splinter, so sand especially the ends and surfaces carefully. Chamfer the edges of corner posts to smooth sharp corners and prevent tripping or injury.

   Sand

   #120

   SandSTEP 3 / 13

   Tip

   • Check wood grain direction and sand along the grain to avoid splinters.
   • First sand the wood ends flat with #120, then smooth with #240; skipping this causes uneven paint absorption.
   • Using an orbital sander reduces sanding time to one-third; consider rental services.

   Watch out

   • Sanding produces a lot of dust; perform sanding in ventilated areas like balconies or garages.
   • Do not paint before removing sanding dust; use air duster or damp cloth to clean or surface will be rough.
4. 4

   Erecting and Temporarily Securing Corner Posts

   ≈ 25 min

   Stand up the four 2×4 lumber posts vertically and place them on the four corners of your workbench. Temporarily secure with clamps to the bench ensuring level at top and bottom. Use a level to confirm verticality. Measure spacing between posts as 600mm front-to-back and 300mm side-to-side (inside dimensions) with measuring tape.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 4 / 13

   Tip

   • Check verticality on two faces (front and side) with a level and aim for zero deviation.
   • Uneven concrete or cushioned floors may need plywood laid down for a flat working surface.
   • Align knots on all posts facing the same direction for better appearance, adjusting orientation as you place them.

   Watch out

   • If even one post is off vertical, installed boards will be slanted.
   • Be consistent measuring inside or outside edges of posts; inconsistency causes 5-10mm error in dimension.
5. 5

   Attaching Front and Rear Boards (Bottom Layer First)

   ≈ 40 min

   Place the first cedar board horizontally at the lowest front position. Apply wood glue on the corner posts' sides and fix with 65mm coarse-thread screws: 2 screws on each side (total 4 per board). For subsequent boards, stack leaving 5mm ventilation slits (one chopstick thickness). Attach five boards on front and five on rear out of 10 total.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 5 / 13

   Tip

   • The 5mm ventilation slit prevents moisture inside shoes; tightly stacked boards cause mold.
   • Use chopsticks to ensure uniform slit spacing.
   • Drill 4mm pilot holes near the corner posts before screwing to prevent splitting.

   Watch out

   • Driving 65mm screws without pilot holes cracks cedar boards; always drill pilot holes.
   • Overdriving screws causes surface dents; stop when the screw head is flush with the board surface.
6. 6

   Attaching Side Boards (Left and Right)

   ≈ 35 min

   Attach sixteen cedar side boards (19×120×700mm) similarly with ventilation slits, five boards on each side. Before fixing, adjust front and rear boards to align the edges where side boards will meet. Measure front-to-back diagonals with a tape and tighten clamps maintaining equal diagonals.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 6 / 13

   Tip

   • If diagonal measurements differ, the frame distorts into a parallelogram; adjust with clamps until equal.
   • Side boards should be inset slightly from front/rear boards; offset pilot holes accordingly.
   • For neater corners, cut corner posts at 45 degrees before fastening if desired.

   Watch out

   • If ventilation slit positions don't align with front/rear boards, appearance looks inconsistent.
   • Diagonal difference over 5mm impedes smooth insertion of stored items.
7. 7

   Processing and Installing Bottom Board

   ≈ 25 min

   Drill nine 20mm ventilation holes evenly in the lauan plywood bottom board (662×762mm) in a 3×3 grid. Holes must be at least 50mm from edges and 100mm from each other. Insert the bottom board under the box frame and fix to the four corner posts with 45mm coarse-thread screws.

   Drill a hole

   下穴 φ3.5mm

   DrillSTEP 7 / 13

   Tip

   • Ventilation holes allow shoe sole moisture to escape; do not reduce their number.
   • Use a hole saw or wood drill bit for neat holes.
   • Bottom side facing ground is not visible, so edge tape is unnecessary.

   Watch out

   • If bottom board is warped, it won’t fit tightly to posts; check flatness beforehand and invert or clamp-screw to correct large warp.
   • Placing holes too close to edges weakens strength; maintain 50mm minimum distance.
8. 8

   Final Checking of Right Angles and Diagonals

   ≈ 15 min

   Measure four inner angles of the assembled box with a carpenter's square to confirm 90 degrees or close. Measure two front-to-back diagonals with tape measure and confirm difference is within 2mm. If misaligned, loosen screws and correct frame with clamps before re-tightening.

   Inspect

   No wobble ✓

   InspectSTEP 8 / 13

   Tip

   • Diagonal difference indicates assembly accuracy; under 2mm is acceptable for practical use.
   • Perform measurements on a level surface to avoid errors.
   • Check all screws by hand to ensure none are loose or improperly set.

   Watch out

   • Ignoring misalignments causes difficulty opening/closing doors (lids).
   • Loose screws increase wobbling risk and structural failure under shoe load.
9. 9

   Painting Preparation and Sanding

   ≈ 15 min

   Before painting, lightly sand entire surface with #240 grit sandpaper and wipe off dust with a damp cloth. Even out uneven areas around screw heads and wood ends. Exterior paints like wood preservatives (e.g., Kishira Decoal or Osmo Color) are suitable.

   Sand

   #240

   SandSTEP 9 / 13

   Tip

   • Cedar absorbs paint heavily; two coats are standard.
   • Apply more paint on wood ends as cut surfaces absorb easily.
   • Kishira Decoal works well when rubbed in with cloth rather than brushed for an even finish.

   Watch out

   • Rough sanding base causes paint unevenness and fuzziness.
   • Painting before removing dust results in rough surfaces.
10. 10

    First Coat of Paint

    ≈ 30 min

    Apply wood preservative or water-based paint evenly over all surfaces using a brush or cloth, following wood grain direction. Let penetrate for 15-20 minutes, then wipe off excess with a dry cloth. Paint ventilation slits at an angle to avoid missing spots. Allow natural drying for at least 2 hours.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 10 / 13

    Tip

    • The 'apply and wipe off' method enhances natural wood texture.
    • Paint pooling in ventilation slits slows drying; wipe thoroughly.
    • Work outdoors with good ventilation; open windows to dissipate fumes.

    Watch out

    • Forgetting to wipe results in sticky surfaces lasting days.
    • Thick coats cause uneven drying and peeling later; thin two coats are essential.
11. 11

    Intermediate Sanding and Second Coat

    ≈ 25 min

    After the first coat dries, lightly sand with #320 grit sandpaper (intermediate sanding). Remove dust and apply a second, slightly thinner coat similarly, wiping off excess. Allow 24 hours for full curing.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 11 / 13

    Tip

    • Intermediate sanding smooths raised fibers without removing paint film.
    • Two coats greatly increase wood preservation; do not skip the second coat.
    • Keep painting area dust-free during drying.

    Watch out

    • Excessive sanding removes first coat paint film.
    • Skipping second coat halves preservative effectiveness, critical outdoors.
12. 12

    Applying Foot Pads and Waterproofing Measures

    ≈ 15 min

    Stick felt or non-slip rubber pads to the bottom ends of corner posts. If placed directly on ground, raise on bricks or blocks by 10cm. For tile surfaces, silicone pads prevent slipping.

    Fix to the wall

    Anchor to studs

    InstallSTEP 12 / 13

    Tip

    • Felt absorbs water and gets dirty easily; rubber/silicone recommended outdoors.
    • Pads are mandatory on all four corner posts; omitting the center causes tilting.
    • After installation, monitor for one week; continue ventilation until paint odor dissipates.

    Watch out

    • No pads cause floor damage and slipping on wet surfaces.
    • Some silicone pads have weak adhesive; using strong double-sided tape ensures attachment.
13. 13

    Final Inspection and Shoe Storage

    ≈ 15 min

    Check that all screws are tight, ventilation slits are evenly spaced, and paint finish is uniform. Use a level to check for wobble; adjust pad thickness if needed to level. Avoid placing heavy items for one week until paint fully cures. Store shoes dry inside.

    Done!

    Done — nice work!

    DoneSTEP 13 / 13

    Tip

    • Wipe off water from wet shoes before storage to prevent moisture buildup.
    • Ideal shoe capacity is 80% full to maintain ventilation.
    • Monthly ventilation (empty all shoes and use a fan to dry) prolongs lifespan.

    Watch out

    • Placing wet shoes before paint cures leaves shoe-shaped marks on paint film.
    • Overfilling causes board deformation from forced shoe pressure.

Warnings

• ⚠️When used outdoors, wood preservative treatment is essential (reapplication recommended annually).
• ⚠️Use stainless steel screws (iron screws will rust).
• ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.
• ⚠️Use paint that is safe if licked by pets (water-based urethane paint recommended).

Find more blueprints in this category or store