Dog house
Dog House with Door
DIY blueprint for Dog House with Door.
Dimensions
Width (W)
750mm
Depth (D)
650mm
Height (H)
700mm
Cut list
Tools you'll need
- ✓
Measuring Tape (5 m or longer)
Used for measuring all parts.
- ✓
Pencil and Carpenter's Square
For marking lines and confirming right angles.
- ✓
Saw
Using home center cut service recommended.
- ✓
Electric Driver
Impact driver improves work efficiency.
- ✓
Sandpaper
Prepare #120 and #240 grit.
- ✓
Level
Essential for checking horizontals during assembly.
- ✓
Clamps (2 or more)
Used for temporary fixing during joining.
- ✓
Brush and Paint Tray
Used for applying wood preservative.
Materials
Build steps
- 1
Measure and Confirm Installation Location
≈ 15 minMeasure the installation space for the dog house with door (750×650×700mm). Confirm width, maintain a passage clearance of at least 600mm, and consider door opening range.
MeasureW 750 mmMeasureSTEP 1 / 13Tip
- Avoid placing directly under rain gutters or over drains.
- Maintain at least 20mm spacing between walls and furniture for easy cleaning.
- Avoid borders between wood decks and soil; prevents instability.
Watch out
- Cannot install if space is less than 750mm width; prior measurement critical.
- Outdoor installation sites often have foot traffic; projecting placement creates trip hazards.
- 2
Create Cutting List for Materials
≈ 30 minCut cedar boards 19mm thick into front and back boards (19×120×750mm) ×12 pieces, side boards (19×120×650mm) ×12 pieces. Bottom board is Lauan plywood 12mm (12×612×712mm) ×1 piece. Corner posts are 2x4 lumber (38×89×700mm) ×4 pieces. Using home center paid cutting service is convenient.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 2 / 13Tip
- Cedar boards vary in knots and warping; select each piece by hand.
- The 700mm post length includes height of front/back boards (120×4=480mm) plus 20mm margin.
- Cutting service can align grain direction for better appearance.
Watch out
- Cedar end grain absorbs water easily; apply preservative thoroughly later.
- 2x4 lumber actual size is 38×89mm; specify '38×89' when ordering cuts (nominal vs actual size difference).
- 3
Sand All Materials
≈ 40 minSand in order: #120 grit, then #240 grit sandpaper. Cedar boards are soft and prone to warping and splinters; sand end grain and surfaces carefully. Chamfer edges of 2x4 corner posts to prevent snagging shoes or hitting feet; smooth all edges.
Sand#120SandSTEP 3 / 13Tip
- Cedar grain is coarse; sand along grain direction to avoid raised splinters.
- Sand end grain flat with #120 grit first, then finish with #240 grit. Skipping this step causes uneven paint absorption.
- Using an orbital sander reduces sanding time to one-third; consider rental services.
Watch out
- Sanding produces large dust. Perform in a ventilated area such as balcony or garage.
- Do not paint before removing dust; leftover dust causes rough surfaces. Use air duster or damp cloth to clean.
- 4
Stand and Temporarily Fix Corner Posts
≈ 25 minStand the four 2x4 posts vertically and place at the four corners of the workbench. Temporarily fix with clamps to the workbench ensuring top and bottom are level. Confirm verticality with level. Measure and set internal spacing between posts: 600mm front to back, 300mm left to right.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 4 / 13Tip
- Check verticality with a level on two sides (front and side) aiming for zero deviation on both.
- Concrete floors and cushion floors can be uneven; place plywood under workbench to create flat surface.
- Arrange all posts with knots on the same side for better appearance.
Watch out
- Even one post off vertical results in tilted front and side boards after assembly.
- Be consistent measuring post spacing either inside or outside edges to avoid 5-10mm error.
- 5
Attach Front and Back Boards (from Bottom)
≈ 40 minPlace the first cedar board horizontally at the lowest front position. Apply wood glue on the left and right corner posts, then fix with two 65mm coarse-thread screws per side (total four screws). For next boards, leave a 5mm ventilation gap (about the thickness of a chopstick) before stacking. Attach five boards each for front and back.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 5 / 13Tip
- 5mm ventilation gaps prevent moisture buildup from shoes.
- Use chopsticks to maintain even spacing.
- Drill 4mm pilot holes near corner posts before screwing to prevent wood splitting.
Watch out
- Not drilling pilot holes before driving 65mm screws causes cedar boards to split.
- Over-driving screws dents board surfaces; stop when screw head is flush with the board.
- 6
Attach Side Boards (Left and Right)
≈ 35 minAttach 12 side boards (19×120×650mm) similarly with ventilation gaps; five boards per side. Adjust front and back boards first to ensure end grains meet flush at corners, then attach side boards. Measure diagonal lengths front-to-back with tape measure to ensure they are equal while fastening.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 6 / 13Tip
- Unequal diagonal lengths cause parallelogram distortion; use clamps to correct until equal.
- Side boards fit inside front and back boards; offset pilot hole positions slightly from front/back board edges.
- Cut corner boards at 45 degrees and join if corner alignment seems uneven for a neat finish.
Watch out
- Unequal ventilation gap alignment between side and front/back boards looks inconsistent.
- More than 5mm diagonal error impedes smooth shoe storage.
- 7
Process and Attach Bottom Board
≈ 25 minUsing 12mm Lauan plywood (262×562mm), drill nine φ20mm ventilation holes arranged 3 vertically by 3 horizontally. Space holes evenly with a minimum 50mm from edges and 100mm between holes. Insert bottom board under the box and fix to four corner posts using 45mm coarse-thread screws.
Drill a holeφ20mmDrillSTEP 7 / 13Tip
- Ventilation holes are essential to release shoe moisture.
- Hole saws create clean holes, but wood drill bits work too.
- No edge banding needed as bottom is not visible from outside.
Watch out
- Warped bottom board prevents flush contact with posts; check flatness first. If warped, flip and fix with screws to correct.
- Locating ventilation holes too near edge weakens strength; keep minimum 50mm distance.
- 8
Final Check of Right Angles and Diagonals
≈ 15 minCheck the assembled box's right angles and diagonal lengths. Measure four inner angles with carpenter's square, noting deviation from 90 degrees. Measure both diagonals with tape; ensure difference is within 2mm. If misaligned, loosen screws, correct with clamps, then retighten.
InspectNo wobble ✓InspectSTEP 8 / 13Tip
- Diagonal difference indicates assembly error; ≤2mm difference is acceptable for practical use.
- Measure on a level surface; uneven floor distorts measurements.
- Verify all screws are fully tightened by feel.
Watch out
- Ignoring distortion causes door opening and closing problems.
- Loose screws later cause wobbling or collapse under shoe weight.
- 9
Surface Preparation and Sanding Before Painting
≈ 15 minLightly sand entire assembly with #240 grit sandpaper, remove dust with damp cloth. Smooth around screw heads and end grain transitions. Suitable exterior wood preservatives include Xyladecor or Osmo Color.
Sand#240SandSTEP 9 / 13Tip
- Cedar absorbs paint heavily; plan for two coats.
- Apply extra paint on end grain as fiber is exposed and absorbs more.
- Apply Xyladecor by rubbing in with cloth for even coverage, better than brush.
Watch out
- Rough sanding before painting causes uneven paint and fuzz.
- Painting with dust present results in rough surface.
- 10
First Coat of Paint
≈ 30 minApply Xyladecor or water-based paint over entire surface, brushing or wiping along grain in one direction. Let soak 15-20 minutes, then wipe excess with dry cloth. Paint ventilation gaps by brushing diagonally to avoid missed spots. Allow drying naturally for over 2 hours.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 10 / 13Tip
- Xyladecor’s 'paint and wipe' method brings out wood grain texture.
- Removing excess paint from gaps prevents delayed drying.
- Work outdoors or ventilate well to handle paint fumes.
Watch out
- Skipping wipe causes sticky residue for days.
- Thick coats cause uneven drying and peeling later; thin two coats are essential.
- 11
Intermediate Sanding and Second Coat of Paint
≈ 25 minAfter first coat dries, lightly sand surface with #320 grit sandpaper (intermediate sanding). Remove dust, apply second thinner coat similarly, then wipe. Allow 24 hours to fully cure.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 11 / 13Tip
- Intermediate sanding smooths only the fuzz raised, avoids removing paint film.
- Two coats greatly improve wood protection; do not skip.
- Keep drying area free of dust.
Watch out
- Sanding too hard removes first coat.
- Skipping second coat halves protective effect, especially outdoors.
- 12
Attach Foot Pads and Waterproofing Measures
≈ 15 minAttach felt pads or non-slip rubber pads to bottom ends of corner posts. If placed directly on ground, elevate by 10cm with bricks or blocks. Use silicone pads on tiles for slip resistance.
Fix to the wallAnchor to studsInstallSTEP 12 / 13Tip
- Felt absorbs water and stains; rubber/silicone recommended for outdoor use.
- Pads required on all four corner posts; omitting center causes tilt.
- Ventilate site for a week after installation to dissipate paint fumes.
Watch out
- No pads cause floor damage and slipping on wet surfaces.
- Some silicone pads have weak adhesive; combine with strong double-sided tape for security.
- 13
Final Checks and Shoe Storage
≈ 15 minFinally confirm all screws are tight, ventilation gaps are uniform, and paint coverage is even. Use a level to check for wobble, adjusting pad thickness to level as needed. Do not place heavy objects for one week until paint fully cures. Store shoes dry inside.
Done!Done — nice work!DoneSTEP 13 / 13Tip
- Wipe wet shoes before storing to prevent moisture buildup.
- Store shoes at no more than 80% capacity to allow ventilation.
- Monthly airing (remove all shoes and use fan) prolongs shoe house life.
Watch out
- Placing wet shoes on uncured paint leaves shoe-shaped marks.
- Overfilling causes board deformation when forcing shoes inside.
Warnings
- ⚠️For outdoor use, wood preservative coating is essential (recoating recommended once a year).
- ⚠️Use stainless steel screws (iron screws will rust).
- ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.
- ⚠️Use paint safe for pets to lick (water-based urethane paint recommended).
Custom design
Changing the dimensions roughly scales the cut list. Get the precise calculation in the app.
Enter dimensions (mm)
Quick estimateWidth W
Depth D
Height H
Base size 750×650×700 mm
Cut list (preview)
Total board length ≈ 20.3 m · Available at: カインズ / コメリ / コーナン / DCM
Accurate materials, prices, and cuts in the app
Per-retailer pricing, purchase links, and optimal cut layouts are auto-calculated in the app.
Examples6 examples
View all →Actual cost
¥5,116
Build time
5 h 25 min
Home center
コーナン
週末を使ってドア付き犬小屋を作りました。屋根は片流れ。雨の侵入を防ぐため軒を 100mm 出してます。費用対効果も高くて満足です。
Actual cost
¥5,860
Build time
4 h 40 min
Home center
コメリ
週末を使ってドア付き犬小屋を作りました。床は高床式 (脚 100mm) にして湿気から守る設計。完成までトータル 1 ヶ月、ゆるゆる進めて楽しかったです。
Actual cost
¥6,676
Build time
5 h 21 min
Home center
カインズ
今回はドア付き犬小屋にトライ。屋根は片流れ。雨の侵入を防ぐため軒を 100mm 出してます。完成までトータル 1 ヶ月、ゆるゆる進めて楽しかったです。
Actual cost
¥10,746
Build time
4 h 10 min
Home center
コーナン
ドア付き犬小屋を自作しました。防腐塗料 (キシラデコール ピニー) でナチュラルに仕上げました。想定以上に綺麗に仕上がって、自分でもびっくり。
Actual cost
¥9,555
Build time
4 h 47 min
Home center
コメリ
気になっていたドア付き犬小屋にようやく挑戦。床は高床式 (脚 100mm) にして湿気から守る設計。ホームセンター店員さんに相談しながら進めたのが良かった。
Actual cost
¥7,495
Build time
5 h 4 min
Home center
DCM
ドア付き犬小屋を自作しました。防腐塗料 (キシラデコール ピニー) でナチュラルに仕上げました。この作品で DIY のモチベがまた上がりました。
Ratings
Comments5
- Mai / マイ2026/04/26

ステップの高さは 25cm が老猫にも優しいです、参考まで
- Ryota 木工歴N年2026/04/26

犬小屋のサイズ感、うちのコにぴったりかも
- 古民家DIY2026/04/26

舐めても大丈夫な塗料か必ず確認、ESHA や Osmo のキッズライン推奨です
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