ZUMEN
DIY blueprint for Entryway Display StandReference photo

Entrance storage

Entryway Display Stand

DIY blueprint for Entryway Display Stand.

Beginner¥2,500–¥5,0001 h 30 minIndoor3 examples
CainzKomeriKohnanDCM

Dimensions

Width (W)

600mm

Depth (D)

250mm

Height (H)

800mm

Cut list

PartSize (T×W×L mm)Qty
1Front Board
19×120×600×14
2Side Board
19×120×250×14
3Bottom Board
12×212×562×1
4Corner Post
38×89×800×4

Tools you'll need

  • Measuring Tape (at least 5m)

    Used for measuring each component

  • Pencil and Carpenter's Square

    Used for marking layout lines and confirming right angles

  • Handsaw

    Use home center cutting service recommended

  • Electric Driver

    Impact driver improves work efficiency

  • Sandpaper

    Prepare #120 and #240 grits

  • Level

    Essential for confirming horizontal levels during assembly

  • Clamps (2 or more)

    Used for temporary fixing during joining

  • Brush and Paint Tray

    Used for oil and varnish finishing

Materials

Front and Rear Boards (Cedar 19mm)

19×120×600mm

14

Side Boards (Cedar 19mm)

19×120×250mm

14

Bottom Board (Lauan Plywood 12mm)

12×212×562mm

Ventilation holes processed

1

Corner Posts (2x4 lumber)

38×89×800mm

4

Coarse-Thread Screws 65mm

65mm

60

Build steps

  1. 1

    Measure and Confirm Installation Space

    ≈ 15 min

    Measure the installation location for the entrance decoration stand (600×250×800mm). Confirm the entrance space width, ensure at least 600mm passage clearance, and check the door opening range.

    Measure
    W 600 mm
    MeasureSTEP 1 / 13

    Tip

    • Position so as not to interfere within the fan-shaped range opened by the entrance door.
    • Leave at least 20mm gap between wall and furniture for easy cleaning.
    • Avoid boundary between entrance tiles and wood flooring to prevent wobbling.

    Watch out

    • Installation is not possible if the entrance space width is less than 600mm; prior measuring is important.
    • Avoid protruding placement at foot level in entrance where many people pass to reduce fall risk.
  2. 2

    Create Cutting List for Materials

    ≈ 30 min

    Cut cedar 19mm thick into front and rear boards (19×120×600mm) ×14 pieces and side boards (19×120×250mm) ×14 pieces. Bottom board is Lauan plywood 12mm (12×212×562mm) ×1 piece. Corner posts are 2×4 lumber cut to (38×89×800mm) ×4 pieces. Home center paid cut service is convenient.

    Cut
    Use the in-store cut service
    CutSTEP 2 / 13

    Tip

    • Cedar boards vary widely in knots and warping; select boards individually.
    • Corner post length 800mm includes front/rear side boards height (120×4=480mm) plus 20mm margin.
    • When using cut service, specify grain alignment for better appearance.

    Watch out

    • Cedar board end grain absorbs water easily; apply protective coating generously in later steps.
    • Specify actual dimensions '38×89' when ordering 2×4 lumber cuts, as nominal sizes differ.
  3. 3

    Sand All Components

    ≈ 40 min

    Sand sequentially using #120 then #240 sandpapers. Cedar boards are soft and prone to warping and splinters, so sand ends and surfaces carefully. Chamfer corners of 2×4 corner posts to prevent snagging shoes or bumps.

    Sand
    #120
    SandSTEP 3 / 13

    Tip

    • Sand cedar boards following the wood grain direction to avoid raising splinters.
    • Flatten end grain with #120, then smooth with #240; skipping causes uneven finish.
    • Using an orbital sander reduces sanding time by two-thirds; also consider rental services.

    Watch out

    • Sand dust is heavy; conduct sanding in well-ventilated areas like balconies or garages.
    • Apply paint only after removing dust with air duster or damp cloth to avoid rough surfaces.
  4. 4

    Erect Corner Posts and Temporary Fixing

    ≈ 25 min

    Stand four 2×4 lumber posts vertically at table corners. Temporarily clamp them to the table edges to keep them level. Use a level to confirm vertical alignment. Measure inner distance between posts to be 600mm front to back and 300mm left to right with measuring tape.

    Build the frame
    Tighten joints firmly
    AssembleSTEP 4 / 13

    Tip

    • Check verticality on two sides (front and side) with a level aiming for zero error on both.
    • Uneven concrete or cushioned floors may require laying plywood for a flat work surface.
    • Align knots on all four posts facing the same way for better appearance, adjust by rotating if needed.

    Watch out

    • If even one post is out of vertical alignment, front/rear/side boards will tilt after assembly.
    • Consistently measure either inside or outside edges of posts for spacing to avoid 5-10mm discrepancies.
  5. 5

    Attach Front and Rear Boards (Bottom Up)

    ≈ 40 min

    Place the first cedar board horizontally at the front's lowest position, apply wood glue to both corner posts, and fix with 65mm coarse-thread screws, using 2 screws per post (4 screws total). From second board onward, stack with 5mm ventilation slits (one chopstick thickness) between boards. Among 10 boards, 5 go to front, 5 to back.

    Build the frame
    Tighten joints firmly
    AssembleSTEP 5 / 13

    Tip

    • 5mm ventilation slits help prevent shoe moisture buildup; tight joints cause mold.
    • Using chopsticks as spacers ensures uniform slit width.
    • Pre-drill pilot holes (φ4mm) on the corner post side before screwing to prevent wood splitting.

    Watch out

    • Driving 65mm screws without pilot holes causes cedar boards to split; always pilot drill.
    • Overdriving screws causes surface dents; stop screw flush with board surface.
  6. 6

    Attach Side Boards (Both Sides)

    ≈ 35 min

    Attach both side boards (19×120×250mm) ×14 pieces similarly with ventilation slits. Attach 5 boards per left and right sides. Adjust front and rear boards position to align edges tightly where board ends meet at corners before fixing side boards. Measure front-to-back diagonal lengths with measuring tape to ensure equality and fix while correcting with clamps.

    Build the frame
    Tighten joints firmly
    AssembleSTEP 6 / 13

    Tip

    • If diagonal lengths differ, the box distorts into a parallelogram; clamp until equal.
    • Side boards fit inside front and rear boards, so offset pilot holes slightly inward from front/rear board edges.
    • If corner alignment is imperfect, precut corner joints at 45 degrees and secure for neat finish.

    Watch out

    • If ventilation slits on side boards do not align with front/rear boards, appearance is uneven.
    • If diagonal error exceeds 5mm, stored items may not fit smoothly.
  7. 7

    Process and Attach Bottom Board

    ≈ 25 min

    Drill nine φ20mm ventilation holes evenly spaced (3 rows × 3 columns) on 12mm Lauan plywood bottom board (262×562mm). Keep holes at least 50mm away from edges and 100mm apart from each other. Insert bottom board inside box bottom and fix to four posts with 45mm coarse-thread screws.

    Drill a hole
    φ20mm
    DrillSTEP 7 / 13

    Tip

    • Ventilation holes are critical for releasing moisture from shoe soles; do not reduce number.
    • Using hole saws results in cleaner holes; wood drill bits also acceptable.
    • No edge tape needed on bottom-visible ground side.

    Watch out

    • Warped bottom board prevents proper contact with posts; check flatness and screw in reverse side or straighten as needed.
    • Placing ventilation holes too close to edges weakens board strength; keep at least 50mm clearance.
  8. 8

    Final Right Angle and Diagonal Check

    ≈ 15 min

    Confirm right angles and diagonal lengths of assembled box. Use a carpenter's square to verify all four internal corners at 90 degrees. Measure both diagonals with measuring tape and verify difference is within 2mm. If misaligned, loosen screws, clamp to adjust, then retighten screws.

    Inspect
    No wobble ✓
    InspectSTEP 8 / 13

    Tip

    • Diagonal difference indicates assembly accuracy; within 2mm is acceptable.
    • Measurements can be distorted if floor is uneven; measure on level surfaces.
    • Check all screws by hand to ensure none are loose or incompletely driven.

    Watch out

    • Ignoring distortion causes trouble when fitting lid or doors later.
    • Loose screws increase risk of wobbling or collapse under shoe weight.
  9. 9

    Painting Preparation and Sanding

    ≈ 15 min

    Before painting, lightly sand entire surface with #240 grit sandpaper and wipe dust off with a damp cloth. Smooth unevenness around screw heads and wood ends. Watco Oil or Briwax are convenient indoor finishes.

    Sand
    #240
    SandSTEP 9 / 13

    Tip

    • Cedar absorbs paint heavily; plan for two coats.
    • Apply more paint on end grain as cut fibers soak paint easily.
    • Apply Watco Oil using cloth rubbing for uniform finish rather than brush.

    Watch out

    • Rough sanding causes uneven paint or fuzzy texture.
    • Applying paint over dust results in rough surfaces.
  10. 10

    First Coat Painting

    ≈ 30 min

    Apply Watco Oil or water-based paint evenly. Use brush or rag to coat with wood grain direction in one stroke. Let penetrate for 15-20 minutes, then wipe off excess with dry cloth. Apply brush diagonally to ventilation slits ensuring full coverage. Let dry naturally for over 2 hours.

    Paint
    Watco oil / varnish
    PaintSTEP 10 / 13

    Tip

    • ‘Apply and wipe’ method with Watco Oil enhances natural wood feel.
    • Paint collecting in ventilation slits slows drying; wipe thoroughly.
    • Keep good ventilation indoors and open windows to control fumes.

    Watch out

    • Failing to wipe off leaves sticky residue for days; always wipe with dry cloth.
    • Thick coats cause drying unevenness and later peeling; always apply thin coats twice.
  11. 11

    Light Sanding and Second Coat Painting

    ≈ 25 min

    After first coat dries, lightly sand with #320 sandpaper (intermediate sanding). Remove dust then apply second coat thinner than first, wiping off similarly. Let cure fully for 24 hours.

    Paint
    Watco oil / varnish
    PaintSTEP 11 / 13

    Tip

    • Light sanding removes surface fuzz without stripping paint layer.
    • Two coats greatly improve wood protection; do not skip.
    • Place in dust-free environment during drying.

    Watch out

    • Sanding too hard removes first coat.
    • Skipping second coat halves protective benefits; especially important due to entrance moisture exposure.
  12. 12

    Attach Leg Pads and Waterproofing

    ≈ 15 min

    Attach felt pads or non-slip rubber pads to bottom ends of corner posts. Rubber pads with water repellency are recommended due to wet entrance areas. Choose silicone pads for tile floors to prevent slipping.

    Fix to the wall
    Anchor to studs
    InstallSTEP 12 / 13

    Tip

    • Felt pads absorb water and become dirty; rubber or silicone preferred for entrance.
    • Pads are essential on four corner posts; omitting central pads causes tilting.
    • After installation, ventilate for one week as paint fumes dissipate.

    Watch out

    • No pads cause floor damage and slipping on wet floors.
    • Some silicone pads have weak adhesive; use strong double-sided tape for reliable attachment.
  13. 13

    Final Inspection and Shoe Storage

    ≈ 15 min

    Check all screws tightness, uniformity of ventilation slits, and paint finish. Use level to check wobbling; adjust pad thickness for leveling if needed. Do not place heavy objects for one week until paint fully cures. Store shoes dry inside.

    Done!
    Done — nice work!
    DoneSTEP 13 / 13

    Tip

    • Dry wet shoes thoroughly on entrance mat before storage to avoid trapped moisture.
    • Store shoes up to 80% of stand capacity; full loads hinder ventilation.
    • Monthly airing by removing items and using a fan prolongs furniture life.

    Watch out

    • Placing wet shoes before paint cure leaves shoe-shaped paint marks.
    • Overloading causes board deformation.

Warnings

  • ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.

Custom design

Changing the dimensions roughly scales the cut list. Get the precise calculation in the app.

Enter dimensions (mm)

Quick estimate

Width W

Depth D

Height H

Base size 600×250×800 mm

Cut list (preview)

PartSize (T×W×L)Qty
Front Board19×120×600×14
Side Board19×120×250×14
Bottom Board12×212×562×1
Corner Post38×89×800×4

Total board length ≈ 15.7 m · Available at: カインズ / コメリ / コーナン / DCM

Accurate materials, prices, and cuts in the app

Per-retailer pricing, purchase links, and optimal cut layouts are auto-calculated in the app.

Calculate accurately in the app

Examples3 examples

View all →

Post your build

Post photos, actual cost, and a comment from the app and they'll appear here.

Free

Ratings

4.2/ 5
(30 ratings)Rate in the app

Comments5

  • Naoya's avatar
    Naoya
    2026/04/26

    棚作りからDIY始めたいんですが、これくらいなら自分にもできそうですか?

  • Itsuki's avatar
    Itsuki
    2026/04/26

    棚柱に対して荷重バランスがよく考えられてますね。長年使うなら背板にも筋交い入れたいところ

  • mokkou_pdf_41's avatar
    mokkou_pdf_41
    2026/04/26

    壁付けにする場合は背板を入れたほうが安心かなと思います

2 more comment(s) in the app

Open in app

Customize the size in the app

Enter width, depth, and height in the app — the blueprint and material list are generated for you.

Free download (iPhone)

Find more blueprints in this category or store

Related blueprints