Kids' furniture
Kids Low Table
DIY blueprint for Kids Low Table.
Dimensions
Width (W)
800mm
Depth (D)
600mm
Height (H)
400mm
Cut list
Tools you'll need
- ✓
Tape measure (5m or more)
Used for measuring each part
- ✓
Pencil and carpenter's square
Used for marking lines and checking right angles
- ✓
Saw
Using home center cutting service is recommended
- ✓
Electric screwdriver
Impact driver improves work efficiency
- ✓
Sandpaper
Prepare two kinds: #120 and #240
- ✓
Level
Essential for checking level during assembly
- ✓
Clamps (2 or more)
Used for temporary fixing during joining
- ✓
Brush and paint tray
Used for oil or varnish finishing
Materials
Build steps
- 1
Measuring and Checking the Installation Environment
≈ 15 minMeasure the installation location for the children's low table (800×600×400mm). Confirm the front and back space for seating with the chair pulled out (chair depth + 400mm or more), and check the flow for serving dishes.
MeasureW 800 mmMeasureSTEP 1 / 12Tip
- For a standard dining style, allocate about 600mm width × 400mm depth per person.
- Table height 720mm assumes typical dining chair seat height (420mm) plus a clearance of 300mm.
- Ensure at least 800mm distance to the wall to allow pulling the chair out.
Watch out
- Standard size for four people is 1200×700mm tabletop, but it's cramped for households with many large dishes.
- If you overlook the chair back in measuring, you may end up with a layout where seating access is impossible.
- 2
Creating a Cut List and Ordering at Home Center
≈ 40 minPrepare 2×6 lumber for six tabletop boards (38×140×800mm), 2×4 lumber for four legs (38×89×362mm), two long apron boards (38×89×724mm), and two short apron boards (38×89×524mm). Prepare 60 pieces of 75mm coarse-thread screws. Using home center paid cutting service is convenient.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 2 / 12Tip
- 2×6 lumber actual size is 38×140mm; note the difference from nominal size.
- Nine tabletop boards side by side measure 140×9=1260mm. Allowing 3mm gaps between boards totals 1260 + 24 = 1284mm.
- Effective width with nine boards and eight 3mm gaps is 1284mm, which exceeds 800mm; board count or width adjustment is needed.
Watch out
- Selecting warped or twisted 2×6 boards causes uneven tabletop; visually inspect each board at purchase.
- Leg length should be 362mm = height 400 - tabletop thickness 38mm; give actual sizes to avoid cutting mistakes.
- 3
Sanding All Parts
≈ 50 minSand in order with #120, then #180, then #240 sandpaper. Pay special attention to the 2×6 tabletop boards—after repeated damp wiping to raise the grain, fully dry and finish sanding with #240 to make the surface resistant to food stains during meals.
Sand#120SandSTEP 3 / 12Tip
- Because food contacts the tabletop, splinters are absolutely unacceptable; check by running the pads of your fingers over the surface.
- The 'wet sanding' process (wet wipe, dry, resand) reduces grain fuzz.
- Using orbital sander saves time; consider rental services.
Watch out
- Not beveling corners can cause clothes or skin to catch, especially at children's face height.
- Sanding generates large amounts of dust; perform in ventilated places like balconies or garages.
- 4
Temporary Assembly of Legs and Aprons (Frame Construction)
≈ 45 minOn each of the four legs, mark 50mm down from the top end; place long and short apron boards on the outside of the legs at this level. Attach aprons with two 75mm coarse-thread screws per joint. Confirm right angles at all corners with a carpenter's square when the rectangular frame is assembled.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 4 / 12Tip
- Attaching aprons outside the legs looks better but attaching inside resists top collision better.
- Drill φ5mm pilot holes in apron boards before screwing to prevent splitting legs.
- Correct angle at joints directly affects tabletop fit after assembly.
Watch out
- Driving 75mm screws without pilot holes easily splits 2×4 lumber.
- Not matching leg orientation (knots, grain) results in inconsistent appearance.
- 5
Checking Frame Right Angles and Diagonals
≈ 15 minPlace the assembled frame on a flat floor; check all four legs touch the floor (no wobble). Measure the inner diagonal lengths with a tape measure, confirming they differ by no more than 2mm. If misaligned, loosen screws and correct with clamps from the diagonal direction before retightening.
InspectNo wobble ✓InspectSTEP 5 / 12Tip
- Work on a level floor to ensure correct measurements.
- If diagonal difference exceeds 5mm, tabletop will seat unevenly; keep within 2mm.
- Wobble means only one leg does not contact floor; correct until all legs sit firmly.
Watch out
- Ignoring frame distortion before proceeding causes tabletop lifting or misfit.
- Inaccurate carpenter's squares can be off by 0.5 degrees or more, causing errors.
- 6
Tabletop Assembly
≈ 40 minLay nine 2×6 tabletop boards on your workbench aligning wood grain direction. Insert 3mm thick chopsticks between boards to allow breathing space. Attach two 2×4 lumber reinforcing battens from underneath with wood glue and 45mm coarse-thread screws to unify the tabletop.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 6 / 12Tip
- Alternating heartwood direction of boards reduces warping and cracking.
- Battens should be placed about 200mm from tabletop edges to maintain appearance.
- Confirm 45mm screws do not penetrate 38mm thickness by actual measurement.
Watch out
- Tightly fitting boards without gaps cause moisture swelling and warping; always leave 3mm breathing space.
- If battens are attached crookedly, the whole tabletop will warp; check right angles with square.
- 7
Fixing Tabletop to Frame
≈ 30 minPlace the tabletop on the frame, checking balance front/back and side-to-side to set overhang of about 30mm each side. Drill φ5mm pilot holes from apron boards into tabletop underside, then attach with twelve 75mm coarse-thread screws: four from long aprons, two from short aprons.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 7 / 12Tip
- Overhang of 30-50mm does not interfere with dining motions.
- Drive screws closer to the inside of apron boards to reduce wood splitting, not in center.
- Choose screw length to not penetrate tabletop; length should be apron thickness plus 20mm or less.
Watch out
- Driving 75mm screws without pilot holes and countersinks may cause screw heads to protrude above tabletop surface.
- Excessive overhang (more than 50mm) causes tabletop sag; 30mm is optimal.
- 8
Surface Preparation for Finishing
≈ 20 minLightly sand all surfaces again with #240 sandpaper before finishing, then remove dust with a damp cloth. For indoor use, use water-based urethane varnish, Watco Oil, Briwax, etc. Use coatings labeled 'Food Sanitation Law compliant' for surfaces contacting food for safety.
Sand#240SandSTEP 8 / 12Tip
- Water-based urethane varnish (matte or semi-gloss) is water and heat resistant, suitable for dining tables.
- Watco Oil preserves wood texture with a soft finish.
- Always test paint on a scrap board to check color before application.
Watch out
- Glue residues repel paint; sand those areas with #240 thoroughly.
- If dust remains during painting, surface will be rough. Clean thoroughly.
- 9
First Coat of Finish
≈ 40 minApply finish with a brush to all surfaces: tabletop first, then aprons, legs, and finally underside. Brush along the grain in one direction without streaks. For water-based urethane varnish, dry about 3 hours; for Watco Oil, apply and let penetrate for 15-20 minutes, then wipe off excess and dry 2 hours.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 9 / 12Tip
- Thin coats are essential with urethane varnish; two coats recommended to avoid bubbles and shrinkage.
- Always wipe off excess Watco Oil; leftover oil causes tackiness after drying.
- Dry in dust-free environment.
Watch out
- Applying thick varnish causes runs and uneven drying.
- Drying near direct heat causes surface to dry while inside remains wet. Allow natural drying.
- 10
Sanding Between Coats and Second Coat Application
≈ 40 minAfter the first coat dries completely, lightly sand the surface with #400 very fine sandpaper (intermediate sanding). Remove dust and apply the second thinner coat. For three coats, perform another intermediate sanding after the second coat for increased thickness needed for dining surfaces.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 10 / 12Tip
- Intermediate sanding with #400 is light, just smoothing raised fibers.
- Two coats vastly improve water and abrasion resistance, essential for dining tables.
- Three coats produce a hard, glossy finish similar to commercial tables.
Watch out
- Excessive sanding may remove first coat.
- Do not touch wet surfaces to avoid fingerprints and dust; observe at least 24-hour drying time.
- 11
Waiting for Full Cure of Finish
≈ 10 minAfter finishing, wait at least 72 hours before placing heavy objects for full curing. Water-based urethane varnish fully cures in one week. Avoid using the table for eating or work during this period and lightly cover with a cloth to prevent dust settling.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 11 / 12Tip
- Cure time varies by paint type; strictly follow manufacturer instructions.
- Check curing by pressing with nail; no permanent indentation indicates curing.
- Dry times vary with temperature: 3-4 days in summer, over one week in winter.
Watch out
- Placing hot pots directly on uncured finish will cause damage.
- Dropping dishes may chip uncured finish; handle carefully.
- 12
Attaching Foot Pads and Final Checks
≈ 20 minAttach felt pads to the bottom of all four legs to protect the floor. Move the table to the installation location and check level with a level. Adjust pad thickness if there is wobble. Sit at the table and confirm knees do not hit apron boards.
Done!Done — nice work!DoneSTEP 12 / 12Tip
- Felt pads 10mm thick absorb floor irregularities.
- Use felt pads on hard floors (like hardwood), rubber pads on tatami mats.
- For persistent wobble, adjust with thinner pad on one leg.
Watch out
- Not attaching pads may damage floors due to table weight.
- If seat-to-table height difference (clearance) is not 270-300mm, dining posture will suffer.
Warnings
- ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.
Custom design
Changing the dimensions roughly scales the cut list. Get the precise calculation in the app.
Enter dimensions (mm)
Quick estimateWidth W
Depth D
Height H
Base size 800×600×400 mm
Cut list (preview)
Total board length ≈ 8.7 m · Available at: カインズ / コメリ / コーナン / DCM
Accurate materials, prices, and cuts in the app
Per-retailer pricing, purchase links, and optimal cut layouts are auto-calculated in the app.
Examples16 examples
View all →Actual cost
¥5,253
Build time
2 h 26 min
Home center
カインズ
市販品ではしっくりこなかったので子供用ローテーブルを自分で組みました。一人暮らしなので一人で組み立てられる構造に。天板を成長に合わせてダボ穴 3 段階で高さ調整可能にしました。塗料は食品衛生法適合品。子供がなめても大丈夫なものに統一。家族にも好評で作って良かった。
Actual cost
¥5,382
Build time
1 h 42 min
Home center
コーナン
気になっていた子供用ローテーブルにようやく挑戦。古い柱や梁とのバランスを意識して仕上げました。ハードウッド (ウリン) を選択。重さと固さに作業中泣かされました。扉は指挟み防止のソフトクローズ蝶番を使ってます。完成までトータル 1 ヶ月、ゆるゆる進めて楽しかったです。
Actual cost
¥5,001
Build time
2 h 34 min
Home center
コメリ
気になっていた子供用ローテーブルにようやく挑戦。材料はおなじみのSPF、コスパ重視でいきました。角は全て R 面取り、塗料は食品衛生法適合のミルクペイント。この作品で DIY のモチベがまた上がりました。
Actual cost
¥4,980
Build time
1 h 37 min
Home center
コメリ
子供用ローテーブルを自作しました。メイン材は今回もイタウバ。雨ざらしでも 10 年は安心です。角は全て R 面取り、塗料は食品衛生法適合のミルクペイント。塗料は食品衛生法適合品。子供がなめても大丈夫なものに統一。想定以上に綺麗に仕上がって、自分でもびっくり。
Actual cost
¥7,427
Build time
2 h
Home center
ロイヤルホームセンター
子供用ローテーブルを自作しました。SPF 2x4 と 1x6 の組み合わせ。慣れた材料なので作業もスムーズ。天板を成長に合わせてダボ穴 3 段階で高さ調整可能にしました。費用対効果も高くて満足です。
Actual cost
¥4,689
Build time
1 h 26 min
Home center
DCM
今回は子供用ローテーブルにトライ。角は全て R 面取り、塗料は食品衛生法適合のミルクペイント。費用対効果も高くて満足です。
Ratings
Comments2
- Souta_lab2026/04/26

塗装はリボス系のオイルが舐めても安心で見た目もきれいです
- wood.archive_682026/04/26

成長対応で天板高さを差し替え式にすると、何年も使ってもらえる設計に
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