Planter stand
Herb Planter Shelf
DIY blueprint for Herb Planter Shelf.
Dimensions
Width (W)
600mm
Depth (D)
200mm
Height (H)
700mm
Cut list
Tools you'll need
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Measuring tape (5m or longer)
Used for measuring all parts.
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Pencil and carpenter's square
For marking lines and checking right angles.
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Handsaw
Using the home center's cutting service is recommended.
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Electric screwdriver
Impact driver improves work efficiency.
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Sandpaper
Prepare two types: #120 and #240.
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Level
Essential for checking levelness during assembly.
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Clamps (2 or more)
Used for temporary fixing during joints.
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Brush and paint tray
Used for applying wood preservative coating.
Materials
Build steps
- 1
Measure and check installation location
≈ 15 minMeasure the installation location for the herb planter shelf (600×200×700mm). Check the entrance width, ensure at least 600mm for passage clearance, and confirm door opening range.
MeasureW 600 mmMeasureSTEP 1 / 13Tip
- Place so it does not enter the fan-shaped area when the entrance door is opened.
- Leave a minimum of 20mm gap between wall and furniture for easy cleaning.
- Avoid the boundary between entrance tiles and boards (flooring) to prevent wobbling.
Watch out
- Cannot install if entrance space width is less than 600mm. Pre-measurement is important.
- Entrance is a high-traffic area; protruding placement at foot level poses tripping hazard.
- 2
Create material cutting list
≈ 30 minCut 19mm thick cedar board into front and rear boards (19×120×600mm)×12 pieces, side boards (19×120×200mm)×12 pieces. Bottom board is 12mm lauan plywood (12×162×562mm)×1 piece. Corner posts are 2×4 lumber cut to (38×89×700mm)×4 pieces. Using home center cutting service is convenient.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 2 / 13Tip
- Select cedar boards one by one due to large variability in knots and warping.
- The 700mm corner post length includes front and rear side board heights (120×4=480mm) plus 20mm allowance.
- When using cutting service, you can specify to align wood grain for better appearance.
Watch out
- Cut ends of cedar board absorb water easily; apply preservative thoroughly later.
- 2×4 lumber actual size is 38×89mm; specify '38×89' clearly when ordering cuts (nominal and actual sizes differ).
- 3
Sand all parts
≈ 40 minSand with #120 then #240 sandpaper. Cedar boards are soft and prone to warping and splinters, so carefully sand especially ends and surfaces. Chamfer 2×4 corner posts to smooth edges to prevent shoe catching or foot injuries.
Sand#120SandSTEP 3 / 13Tip
- Sand with the wood grain direction; sanding against grain causes splinters.
- Smooth cut ends with #120 first then #240. Skipping this may cause uneven paint.
- Using an orbital sander can reduce sanding time to one third; use rental services if available.
Watch out
- Sanding creates a lot of dust; work in ventilated areas like balcony or garage.
- Do not paint over dust; remove dust with air duster or damp cloth to avoid rough surface.
- 4
Stand and temporarily fix corner posts
≈ 25 minVertically stand the four 2×4 lumber posts, placed at the four corners of the workbench. Temporarily fix with clamps to workbench to ensure level at top and bottom. Use level to check verticality. Measure spacing between posts as 600mm front to rear and 300mm left to right (inside dimensions) with measuring tape.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 4 / 13Tip
- Check verticality on two planes (front and side) with level for zero error.
- Concrete or cushioned floors may have unevenness; place plywood for flat workspace.
- Align knots in same direction on all four posts for better appearance and rotate posts as needed.
Watch out
- If even one post is off vertical, assembled front and side boards will lean.
- Be consistent measuring inside or outside edge of posts when measuring spacing to avoid 5-10mm errors.
- 5
Attach front and rear boards (starting from bottom)
≈ 40 minPlace first cedar board horizontally at bottom front, apply wood glue on both corner posts, and fix with 65mm coarse-thread screws. Use 2 screws per side (4 screws total per board). From the second board upwards, stack with 5mm ventilation slits (width of one chopstick) between them. Use 5 boards in front and 5 in back out of total 10 boards.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 5 / 13Tip
- 5mm ventilation slit prevents moisture under shoes; tight stacking causes mold.
- Use chopsticks as spacers for even slit width.
- Drill φ4mm pilot holes on corner post sides before screwing to prevent wood splitting.
Watch out
- Screwing 65mm screws without pilot holes splits cedar boards; always drill pilot holes.
- Overdriving screws causes surface indentations; stop screw flush with board surface.
- 6
Attach side boards (left and right)
≈ 35 minAttach 12 side boards (19×120×200mm) similarly with ventilation slits; 5 on each side. Adjust front and rear boards’ positions first so that wood ends meet exactly at corners before attaching side boards. Measure front-to-rear diagonal lengths and clamp boards until both diagonals are equal.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 6 / 13Tip
- Unequal diagonals cause parallelogram distortion; clamp to equalize.
- Side boards fit inside front and rear boards; offset pilot holes slightly from front/rear board edges.
- For neater corners, pre-cut corner wooden strips at 45° for joining.
Watch out
- Misaligned ventilation slits between side and front/rear boards look uneven.
- More than 5mm diagonal difference makes stored items hard to fit.
- 7
Process and attach bottom board
≈ 25 minDrill nine φ20mm ventilation holes evenly spaced (3 vertical ×3 horizontal) on 12mm lauan plywood bottom board (262×562mm). Hole edges must be at least 50mm from board edges and holes at least 100mm apart. Insert the bottom board at box bottom and fix with 45mm coarse-thread screws to the four posts.
Drill a holeφ20mmDrillSTEP 7 / 13Tip
- Ventilation holes are essential for shoe sole moisture escape; do not reduce number.
- Use hole saw for neat holes; wood drill bits are also acceptable.
- Bottom edge is not visible from outside; no edge tape needed.
Watch out
- Warped bottom board does not fit snugly; check flatness first and invert board or use screw tensioning to straighten.
- Placing holes too close to edges (<50mm) reduces strength.
- 8
Final check of right angles and diagonals
≈ 15 minCheck all inner angles of assembled box with carpenter’s square to verify near 90 degrees. Measure the two front-to-rear diagonals with measuring tape, confirming difference within 2mm. If misaligned, loosen screws, clamp to correct, and retighten.
InspectNo wobble ✓InspectSTEP 8 / 13Tip
- Diagonal difference indicates assembly error; within 2mm is acceptable.
- Measure on level surface to avoid error.
- Check all screws are fully tightened by touch.
Watch out
- Ignoring distortion causes door/lid to not open/close smoothly.
- Loose screws risk wobbling and collapse under shoe load later.
- 9
Surface preparation and sanding before painting
≈ 15 minLightly sand all surfaces with #240 sandpaper to remove dust using damp cloth. Smooth saw blade marks and screw head edges. Use outdoor resistant wood preservative and anti-mold coating such as Xyladecor or Osmo Color.
Sand#240SandSTEP 9 / 13Tip
- Cedar absorbs paint heavily; two coats are recommended.
- Apply more paint on cut ends as fibres are exposed and absorbent.
- Apply Watco Oil by rubbing with cloth for uniform finish, better than brush.
Watch out
- Coarse sanding before painting causes uneven paint and fuzziness.
- Painting without dust removal results in rough finish.
- 10
First coat painting
≈ 30 minApply Watco Oil or water-based paint evenly over entire surface using brush or cloth along wood grain in one direction. Let soak for 15-20 minutes, then wipe off excess with dry cloth. Paint slits diagonally with brush to avoid missing spots. Let dry naturally for 2 or more hours.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 10 / 13Tip
- 'Apply and wipe' method of Watco Oil enhances wood texture.
- Avoid paint accumulation in ventilation slits to prevent slow drying; wipe off by rubbing.
- For outdoor coating, select calm dry days; wind and dust reduce finish quality.
Watch out
- Skipping wipe after application leaves sticky surface for days.
- Thick coats cause uneven drying and later peeling; thin two coats is rule.
- 11
Intermediate sanding and second coat
≈ 25 minAfter first coat dries, lightly sand surface with #320 sandpaper (intermediate sanding). Remove dust and apply second thinner coat similarly. Wipe excess as before. Allow 24 hours for full curing.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 11 / 13Tip
- Intermediate sanding only smooths paint fuzziness; do not remove paint film.
- Two coats greatly enhance wood protection; do not skip second coat.
- Place where dust is minimal during drying.
Watch out
- Excessive sanding causes first coat peel off.
- Skipping second coat halves protection effect, crucial especially in moisture-prone entrances.
- 12
Attach leg pads and waterproofing
≈ 15 minAttach felt pads or non-slip rubber to post bottoms. Rubber pads with water repellency are recommended for wet entrance floors. For tile floors, silicone pads prevent slipping.
Fix to the wallAnchor to studsInstallSTEP 12 / 13Tip
- Felt absorbs water and stains; rubber/silicone recommended for entrances.
- Pads must be on all four corner posts; omitting center causes tilt.
- After installation, ventilate for one week until paint odor dissipates.
Watch out
- No pads causes floor damage and slippery wet floors.
- Some silicone pads have weak adhesive; use strong double-sided tape for security.
- 13
Final inspection and shoe storage
≈ 15 minCheck all screws tightened, ventilation slit uniformity, and painting finish. Use level to check for wobble; adjust pad thickness for leveling if needed. Avoid heavy loads for 1 week until paint fully cures. Store shoes only when dry.
Done!Done — nice work!DoneSTEP 13 / 13Tip
- Dry shoes on entrance mat before storing to prevent moisture buildup.
- Fill storage to 80% capacity for best ventilation; overfilling blocks airflow.
- Monthly ventilation (empty all shoes and dry with fan) prolongs shelf life.
Watch out
- Placing wet shoes before paint curing leaves shoe-shaped marks.
- Overloading shelf causes board deformation.
Warnings
- ⚠️For outdoor use, wood preservative coating is mandatory (recoating annually is recommended).
- ⚠️Use stainless steel screws (iron screws will rust).
- ⚠️Drill pilot holes before screwing to prevent wood splitting.
Custom design
Changing the dimensions roughly scales the cut list. Get the precise calculation in the app.
Enter dimensions (mm)
Quick estimateWidth W
Depth D
Height H
Base size 600×200×700 mm
Cut list (preview)
Total board length ≈ 13 m · Available at: カインズ / コメリ / コーナン / DCM
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Ratings
Comments3
- ハードウッドJP2026/04/26

プランターはハードウッドより SPF + 防腐塗装のほうがコスパいいです
- Shoma2026/04/26

コンポストは三段式にすると、堆肥化のサイクル管理がぐっと楽になります
- DIY読書中_372026/04/26

庭が狭いので背の高いプランターを探してました
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