TV stand
Living Room Storage Board
DIY blueprint for Living Room Storage Board.
Dimensions
Width (W)
2400mm
Depth (D)
450mm
Height (H)
500mm
Cut list
Tools you'll need
- ✓
Measuring tape (5m or longer)
Used for measuring each component.
- ✓
Pencil and carpenter's square
For marking lines and verifying right angles.
- ✓
Saw
Using a home center's cutting service is recommended.
- ✓
Electric screwdriver
Impact driver improves work efficiency.
- ✓
Sandpaper
Prepare two types: #120 and #240.
- ✓
Level
Essential for checking level during assembly.
- ✓
Clamps (2 or more)
Used for temporary fixation during joining.
- ✓
Brush and paint tray
Used for oil or varnish finish.
Materials
Top board / Bottom board (Lauan plywood 18mm)
18×450×2400mm
2 枚
Side board (Lauan plywood 18mm)
18×450×464mm
2 枚
Shelf board (Lauan plywood 18mm)
18×440×2364mm
1 枚
Back board (veneer 4mm)
2400×500mm
4mm thick
1 枚
Coarse-thread screws 38mm
38mm
60 本
Wood glue
Fast drying type
1 本
Build steps
- 1
Measurement and Checking Installation Location
≈ 15 minMeasure the TV stand installation location and confirm that the living storage board (2400×450×500mm) fits. Also check the outlet position, wiring route, and TV stand shape.
MeasureW 2400 mmMeasureSTEP 1 / 17Tip
- Ideal clearance is TV stand width plus 100mm on each side. Consider reinforcing the center of the top board if wall-mounted.
- Choose a location allowing at least 50mm clearance from the wall for front-to-back ventilation.
- If the floor is carpeted, allow for a hard board under the legs to prevent sinking and wobbling when measuring.
Watch out
- If the TV stand depth (450mm) is smaller than the TV stand base, the TV may protrude, posing a hazard. Always measure the bottom surface of the TV box before purchase.
- If storing AV amplifiers or sound bars, confirm in advance that the equipment fits inside the shelf's inner dimensions (W1164×D390×H328mm).
- 2
Creating Cut List and Ordering from Home Center
≈ 30 minCut from 18mm Lauan plywood 1×6尺 board: top and bottom boards (18×400×1200)×2, side boards (18×400×364)×2, shelf board (18×390×1164)×1. Back board is 4mm veneer (1200×400)×1. Since plywood is heavy and large, using a home center cutting service is recommended.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 2 / 17Tip
- Home center cutting services cost 30-50 yen per cut and can cut with accuracy within ±1mm.
- The wood grain direction is most attractive when horizontal as viewed from the front; specify this when ordering.
- The side board length of 364mm includes the thickness of two top/bottom boards (18mm each) calculated for inner dimensions; provide this exact length for cutting.
Watch out
- If plywood thickness is not 18mm (e.g. 12mm, 15mm, 21mm), side board length calculations change. Measure the actual thickness before ordering.
- Cutting services only handle straight cuts; holes for wiring or beveling must be done separately.
- 3
Applying Edge Banding Tape
≈ 25 minApply edge banding tape by ironing onto the cut plywood edges, since the edges are rougher than the surfacing. Treat visible edges—front, back, left, and right edges of top and bottom boards; front edges of side boards and shelf board. Iron at medium temperature (~150℃) for 3-5 seconds.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 3 / 17Tip
- Edge banding tape adheres by resin melting from heat; pressing with a cloth before cooling improves adhesion.
- Trim excess tape with a cutter, cutting partially 2-3 times rather than all at once for a natural finish.
- Back board (4mm veneer) edges are not visible, so no tape needed.
Watch out
- Moving the iron continuously prevents heat from transferring properly; hold iron for 3 seconds per spot then move.
- Too high temperature scorches tape causing discoloration; test temperature using leftover tape first.
- 4
Sanding All Components
≈ 30 minSand all components in order from #180 to #240 grit sandpaper. The plywood surface is already smooth, so sanding lightly is sufficient. Chamfer corners lightly with #240 to remove sharpness, ensuring safe handling. Sand edges of edge band tape gently with #240 as well.
Sand#180SandSTEP 4 / 17Tip
- Sand along the wood grain; sanding against grain will raise fibers and cause uneven paint.
- Aim for chamfered edges that do not catch even on tissue paper to avoid roughness.
- Use a vacuum nozzle near the sander to reduce dust, making indoor work more tolerable.
Watch out
- Plywood veneer layer is thin (0.2-0.5mm); excessive sanding exposes the gray substrate layer beneath.
- Sanding produces a lot of dust; perform outdoors or in a well-ventilated place like balcony or garage.
- 5
Marking Shelf Board Position on Side Boards
≈ 20 minMark the shelf boards' mounting position on the two side boards. Draw a horizontal line 200mm from the bottom edge of the side boards, indicating the top surface of the shelf board. Mark the pilot hole positions at the center line of board thickness (9mm from edge). Ensure symmetry by marking both side boards identically.
Mark a lineUse a try squareMarkSTEP 5 / 17Tip
- Stack side boards and mark one, then transfer marks to the other using a center punch for exact alignment.
- Shelf board position can be adjusted according to equipment height; 50mm above AV amplifier height is a guide.
- Pilot holes should be on thickness center (9mm from the edge). Inaccurate marking causes shelf board misalignment.
Watch out
- Different heights between left and right side boards cause shelf tilt; always transfer marks using stacking.
- Pencil lines can remain visible after painting; draw them lightly intending to erase after assembly.
- 6
Drilling Pilot Holes on Shelf Board and Side Boards
≈ 25 minDrill 3.5mm pilot holes in the shelf board ends for side board attachment: 2 holes per end, 4 total. Also drill through side board marking positions with 3.5mm drill; countersink the front side with φ8mm diameter and 3mm depth. Edge holes require caution to prevent splitting.
Drill a holeφ8mmDrillSTEP 6 / 17Tip
- Countersinking flush with screw heads improves finish appearance.
- Use a drill stopper to control depth (approximately board thickness minus 2mm) to avoid drilling through.
- Always clamp boards firmly before drilling edges to prevent splitting.
Watch out
- Screw placement closer than 10mm from edge risks splitting; stay on the 9mm center line.
- Drill perpendicularly from above to avoid angled holes causing screw protrusion on opposite side.
- 7
Temporary Assembly of Bottom Board and Side Boards
≈ 30 minPlace the bottom board on the floor and stand the two side boards on top. Align side board bottom edges to bottom board edges, apply thin wood glue, then drill 3.5mm pilot holes from the bottom board side and drive in three 38mm coarse-thread screws per side (6 screws total). Use a carpenter’s square to ensure right angles.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 7 / 17Tip
- Apply glue sparingly, roughly a matchstick-sized thin layer; wipe off excess immediately with damp cloth.
- Clamp side boards temporarily to prevent movement during drilling.
- Ensure floor flatness and check bottom board level with a level before assembly.
Watch out
- Excessive glue spills prevent paint adhesion; thin and even application is essential.
- Driving screws without pilot holes risks plywood splitting. Always drill pilot holes first.
- 8
Installing Shelf Board
≈ 20 minInsert the 1164mm shelf board at the marked height. Align ends flush with side boards, apply glue, drill 3.5mm pilot holes from outside of side boards, and drive two 38mm coarse-thread screws per side (4 screws total). Confirm shelf level with a level.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 8 / 17Tip
- Confirm shelf length (1164mm = top board width 2400mm minus two side board thicknesses at 18mm each) by measuring before proceeding.
- Shelf interiors are hidden; countersinking screw heads is unnecessary here.
- If converting to adjustable shelves with shelf pins, drill multiple 5mm holes accordingly at this step.
Watch out
- Shelf boards too short cause wobble; too long cause side boards to bow out. Double-check cut dimensions.
- Uneven shelf level causes remotes and small items to roll off. Always confirm level.
- 9
Attaching Top Board
≈ 25 minPlace the top board (1200mm width) atop the box, aligning it with side board top edges. Drill 3.5mm pilot holes from the top board side, and drive three 38mm coarse-thread screws per side (6 screws total). Countersink screw heads and conceal later with wooden dowels or filler for better finish.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 9 / 17Tip
- Top board is the most important component supporting the TV; adding more screws (e.g., four per side, total 8) improves load capacity.
- Filling countersink holes with φ9mm wooden dowels hides joints, becoming unnoticeable after painting.
- If the TV is very heavy (over 30kg), add reinforcing 1x2 lumber at the top board center underside.
Watch out
- Installing the top board backwards misaligns wood grain direction; align grain consistently before screwing.
- 38mm screws are an appropriate length for 18mm thick boards; longer screws risk penetrating the shelf board below.
- 10
Checking Right Angles and Diagonals
≈ 15 minCheck the entire box’s right angles by placing a carpenter’s square at all four inner corners to confirm 90 degrees. Measure internal diagonal lengths with a tape measure to confirm they are equal within 2mm. If misaligned, loosen screws, use clamps to adjust to right angles, then re-tighten.
InspectNo wobble ✓InspectSTEP 10 / 17Tip
- Diagonal differences above 5mm indicate large distortions which prevent fitting the back board; always correct.
- Clamping diagonally across the box helps restore right angles.
- Enlarging pilot holes to φ4mm provides slight play, easing adjustment.
Watch out
- Ignoring distortion at this stage leads to large gaps when attaching the back board.
- Use a reliable precision carpenter's square (aluminum or steel); plastic squares can be inaccurate.
- 11
Attaching Back Board
≈ 15 minPosition the 4mm thick veneer back board against the back of the box and fix it with a stapler or small screws (φ3×20mm) along four edges and center. Staples should be placed every 30mm, screws every 100mm. The back board fixes the right angle and eliminates most distortions.
Build the frameCheck for squareAssembleSTEP 11 / 17Tip
- If the box was distorted during diagonal checks, fix while clamping to correct shape.
- Stapler is faster; it uses thin needle-like staples similar to a narrow stapler.
- Orient wood grain of back board horizontally for a clean overall look.
Watch out
- Do not attach back board reversed; the front and back sides have different grain and color.
- Stapler pins can protrude through back if missed; feel the back surface after work to check.
- 12
Processing Wiring Hole (if necessary)
≈ 15 minDrill a wiring hole in the back board with a 50mm hole saw for TV power cable, HDMI cable, antenna cable, etc. Ideal placement is directly behind the TV's connection terminals. If no hole saw is available, drill multiple holes and connect them smoothly with a jigsaw.
Drill a hole下穴 φ3.5mmDrillSTEP 12 / 17Tip
- Apply edge banding tape around the hole edge to prevent finger injuries and protect cable sheaths.
- Confirm the layout of TV connection terminals to ensure cables pass straight through the hole.
- Align hole height with power outlet for cleaner appearance.
Watch out
- Incorrect hole positioning prevents neat cable routing from behind the TV; mock up the TV position to mark accurately.
- If the hole saw slips, the plywood surface may peel; ensure drill pilot center bit engages properly.
- 13
Pre-painting Surface Preparation
≈ 15 minLightly sand all painted surfaces with #240 sandpaper before painting, then remove dust thoroughly with a damp cloth and dry cloth. Remove any glue spills and burrs around screw holes. Indoor-use finishes such as Watco Oil, Briwax, or water-based paints are easy to use.
Sand#240SandSTEP 13 / 17Tip
- Always test paint on scrap wood; plywood absorbs paint differently than solid wood and may appear darker.
- Water-based paints allow brush cleaning with water; recommended for beginners.
- Watco Oil preserves wood texture with a natural finish; apply by rubbing with a cloth.
Watch out
- Glue spots repel paint; sand them lightly before painting.
- Paint surface becomes rough if dust is not fully removed before painting; clean meticulously.
- 14
First Coat of Paint
≈ 30 minApply paint over entire surface using brush or cloth, in the order: top board → side boards → bottom board → back board. Paint along the grain in one direction to minimize brush marks. Apply a thin, even coat without buildup. Let dry naturally for at least 2 hours.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 14 / 17Tip
- Use small containers to avoid paint drying out during use; do not leave cans open as films form.
- If brush marks are noticeable, switch to a foam roller for flat uniform coverage.
- Place drying pieces in a low-dust area away from fan airflow.
Watch out
- Applying thick coats causes uneven drying leading to peeling later; two thin coats are best.
- Drying with direct heater airflow dries only surface, leaving the interior tacky; allow natural drying time.
- 15
Sanding Between Coats and Second Coat of Paint
≈ 25 minAfter the first coat dries completely, lightly sand the surface with #320 sandpaper (intermediate sanding) to remove roughness. Remove dust and apply the second coat thinner than the first for a smooth finish. Allow at least 24 hours drying time.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 15 / 17Tip
- Intermediate sanding removes only surface roughness without removing first coat.
- Apply the second coat thinly; thick coats may drip.
- Avoid touching during drying to prevent fingerprints and dust adhesion; strictly observe 24-hour drying.
Watch out
- Excessive sanding removes the first coat; light sanding with #320 is key.
- Thick second coats extend drying and delay subsequent work.
- 16
Attaching Foot Pads and Anti-Tip Hardware
≈ 20 minAttach felt pads to the bottom of legs to prevent floor scratches and wobble. For earthquake safety, attach anti-tip straps or hardware at upper back. The safest is fixing the TV stand to the wall with screws.
Fix to the wallAnchor to studsInstallSTEP 16 / 17Tip
- Felt pads cost about 50 yen at home centers; 10mm thickness absorbs floor unevenness better.
- Anti-tip straps are available at 100 yen stores; dedicated TV stand kits costing around 1000 yen provide more security.
- Fix wall anchors according to stud locations; drywall alone is insufficient.
Watch out
- Skipping felt pads causes floor scratches.
- Omitting anti-tip hardware risks TV stand toppling during strong earthquakes, causing TV damage.
- 17
Final Check and Installation
≈ 20 minMove the completed TV stand to the installation location. Use a level to check front-to-back and side-to-side leveling. Adjust wobble using felt pads if necessary. Place TV, route wiring, turn on power, and check operation. Place only light objects on the stand on the first day; wait one week for paint to cure fully.
Done!Done — nice work!DoneSTEP 17 / 17Tip
- Place the TV centrally to evenly distribute weight on the top board; avoid placing it at edges to prevent warping.
- Route cables down through the back board hole; bundle with cable ties for neatness.
- Ensure 50mm ventilation clearance front and back if storing AV amplifiers or BD recorders on shelves.
Watch out
- Paint requires a full week to harden; placing remotes or devices directly on day one causes stickiness.
- If floor is sloped, leveling may be difficult; adjust felt pad thickness on each side accordingly.
Warnings
- ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.
Custom design
Changing the dimensions roughly scales the cut list. Get the precise calculation in the app.
Enter dimensions (mm)
Quick estimateWidth W
Depth D
Height H
Base size 2400×450×500 mm
Cut list (preview)
Total board length ≈ 8.6 m · Available at: カインズ / コメリ / コーナン / DCM
Accurate materials, prices, and cuts in the app
Per-retailer pricing, purchase links, and optimal cut layouts are auto-calculated in the app.
Examples7 examples
View all →Actual cost
¥12,280
Build time
9 h 25 min
Home center
コーナン
リビング収納ボードを自作しました。一人暮らしなので一人で組み立てられる構造に。天板は集成材で広く取り、サウンドバーも一緒に置けるサイズに。費用対効果も高くて満足です。
Actual cost
¥19,144
Build time
8 h 8 min
Home center
カインズ
週末を使ってリビング収納ボードを作りました。賃貸でも置けるサイズで設計してます。後ろに 30mm の自在錐で配線穴を開けたので、コードが綺麗に処理できます。家族にも好評で作って良かった。
Actual cost
¥22,052
Build time
5 h 38 min
Home center
カインズ
週末を使ってリビング収納ボードを作りました。一人暮らしなので一人で組み立てられる構造に。後ろに 30mm の自在錐で配線穴を開けたので、コードが綺麗に処理できます。この作品で DIY のモチベがまた上がりました。
Actual cost
¥18,446
Build time
8 h 7 min
Home center
カインズ
市販品ではしっくりこなかったのでリビング収納ボードを自分で組みました。後ろに 30mm の自在錐で配線穴を開けたので、コードが綺麗に処理できます。完成までトータル 1 ヶ月、ゆるゆる進めて楽しかったです。
Actual cost
¥15,100
Build time
11 h 12 min
Home center
カインズ
週末を使ってリビング収納ボードを作りました。後ろに 30mm の自在錐で配線穴を開けたので、コードが綺麗に処理できます。費用対効果も高くて満足です。
Actual cost
¥24,866
Build time
7 h 42 min
Home center
DCM
週末を使ってリビング収納ボードを作りました。賃貸でも置けるサイズで設計してます。後ろに 30mm の自在錐で配線穴を開けたので、コードが綺麗に処理できます。この作品で DIY のモチベがまた上がりました。
Ratings
Comments3
- ノミと鑿_1192026/04/26

ダボ穴の位置をもう少し下げると、A4本も無理なく並べられそうですね
- Souta_lab2026/04/26

棚柱に対して荷重バランスがよく考えられてますね。長年使うなら背板にも筋交い入れたいところ
- DIY夫婦2026/04/26

サイズ感がちょうどよくて、うちのリビングにも置けそう
Post comments from the app
Open in appCustomize the size in the app
Enter width, depth, and height in the app — the blueprint and material list are generated for you.
Find more blueprints in this category or store
