Home Office Desk with Divider

Dimensions

Cut list

Tools you'll need

• ✓

  Measuring tape (at least 5m)

  Used for measuring each component.

• ✓

  Pencil and carpenter's square

  For marking cut lines and checking right angles.

• ✓

  Saw

  Recommend using home center’s cutting service.

• ✓

  Electric driver

  Impact driver improves work efficiency.

• ✓

  Sandpaper

  Prepare #120 and #240 grit types.

• ✓

  Level

  Essential for confirming horizontal during assembly.

• ✓

  Clamps (2 or more)

  Used for temporary fixation during joining.

• ✓

  Brush and paint tray

  Used for oil or varnish finishing.

Materials

Build steps

1. 1

   Measuring and Confirming Installation Location

   ≈ 15 min

   Measure the installation location of the TV stand and confirm if the home office desk with divider (1400×700×720mm) fits. Also check power outlet positions, wiring routes, and TV stand shape.

   Measure

   W 1400 mm

   MeasureSTEP 1 / 17

   Tip

   • Ideal clearance is TV stand width plus 100mm on both sides. Consider reinforcement at top board center if wall-mounted.
   • Choose a location that can be set at least 50mm away from the wall for front and back ventilation.
   • If the floor is carpeted, measure assuming a hard board to prevent unevenness as legs may sink.

   Watch out

   • If the TV stand depth of 700mm is less than the TV stand size, the front may protrude dangerously. Always measure the TV box bottom before purchase.
   • If storing AV amplifiers or soundbars, confirm device sizes fit within shelf internal dimensions (W1164×D390×H328mm) before proceeding.
2. 2

   Creating Cut List and Ordering at Home Center

   ≈ 30 min

   From 18mm Lauan plywood 1x6尺 boards, cut 2 each of top and bottom boards (18×400×1200), 2 side boards (18×400×364), and 1 shelf board (18×390×1164). The back panel is 4mm veneer (1200×400)×1. Using home center cutting services is recommended as plywood is heavy and large.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 2 / 17

   Tip

   • Home center cutting service charges 30-50 yen per cut with accuracy within ±1mm.
   • Wood grain direction looks best horizontally from the front; specify this when ordering.
   • Side board length of 364mm is calculated including twice the thickness of top and bottom boards (18mm each). Use this as is when ordering.

   Watch out

   • If plywood thickness is not 18mm (e.g., 12mm/15mm/21mm), side board length calculations differ; confirm actual thickness before ordering.
   • Cutting service handles only straight cuts; holes or chamfers must be made separately.
3. 3

   Applying Edge Banding Tape

   ≈ 25 min

   The cut edges of plywood are rough compared to the decorative surfaces, so apply edge banding tape with an iron. Treat visible edges: front, back, left and right ends of top and bottom boards; front ends of side and shelf boards. Use medium iron temperature (~150℃) and press for 3-5 seconds.

   Cut

   Use the in-store cut service

   CutSTEP 3 / 17

   Tip

   • Edge banding tape adheres by melting resin with heat; pressing with a cloth before cooling improves adhesion.
   • Trim excess tape gradually with a cutter for a natural finish.
   • Back panel edges are not visible, so tape can be omitted.

   Watch out

   • Keeping the iron moving prevents heat from penetrating; hold it still for 3 seconds per area before moving.
   • Too high temperature burns the tape and changes color; test temperature on leftover tape before use.
4. 4

   Sanding All Components

   ≈ 30 min

   Sand all components in order from #180 to #240 grit sandpaper. The plywood surface is already smooth, so light sanding is sufficient. Round edges lightly with #240 to avoid sharpness. Also smooth tape edges gently with #240.

   Sand

   #180

   SandSTEP 4 / 17

   Tip

   • Sand with the grain to avoid raised fibers and uneven paint later.
   • Edge rounding is sufficient when a tissue paper can glide over smoothly.
   • Using a sander near a vacuum nozzle reduces dust by half, making indoor work feasible.

   Watch out

   • The plywood surface veneer is thin (0.2-0.5mm); excessive sanding exposes the gray core.
   • Sanding generates significant dust; perform in ventilated areas like balcony or garage.
5. 5

   Marking Shelf Board Position on Side Boards

   ≈ 20 min

   Mark the shelf board fixing position on the two side boards. Draw a horizontal line 200mm up from the bottom edge (this indicates shelf board top surface height). Take identical measurements on both side boards for symmetry. Use carpenter's square and pencil for lines and mark pilot hole positions at the shelf board thickness center (9mm line).

   Mark a line

   Use a try square

   MarkSTEP 5 / 17

   Tip

   • Stack two side boards and mark one; transfer marks to the other with a punch for perfect alignment.
   • Shelf height can be adjusted based on device sizes; add ~50mm above AV amplifier height.
   • Pilot holes should be centered in side board thickness (9mm from edge) to prevent misalignment.

   Watch out

   • If the left and right side boards differ in height, the shelf board will be slanted. Do not forget paired marking transfer.
   • Pencil lines may remain visible after painting; keep lines light and erase after assembly.
6. 6

   Drilling Pilot Holes in Shelf Board and Side Boards

   ≈ 25 min

   Drill four φ3.5mm pilot holes on the shelf board ends (2 holes per side) for side board fixation. Also drill through the side boards at marked positions with φ3.5mm drill, countersinking φ8mm diameter to 3mm depth on the front side. Although plywood is less likely to split, pilot holes near edges require care.

   Drill a hole

   φ3.5mm

   DrillSTEP 6 / 17

   Tip

   • Countersinking flushes screw heads for a neat finish.
   • Use a drill stopper for depth control, roughly 2mm less than board thickness.
   • Clamp the shelf board firmly before drilling end pilot holes as the edge is prone to splitting.

   Watch out

   • Driving screws closer than 10mm to board edges risks splitting; keep holes at center (9mm).
   • Be sure to drill straight vertically; angling the drill causes screws to protrude on opposite side.
7. 7

   Temporary Assembly of Bottom Board and Side Boards

   ≈ 30 min

   Place the bottom board on the floor and stand the two side boards on it. Align side boards' bottom edges with the bottom board edge. Apply a thin layer of wood glue, then drill φ3.5mm pilot holes and drive three 38mm coarse-thread screws per side (6 screws total) from the bottom board side, checking right angles with carpenter's square for accuracy.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 7 / 17

   Tip

   • A thin glue layer about the size of a toothpick is best, wiping excess immediately with a damp cloth.
   • Clamp the side boards temporarily before drilling to prevent shifting.
   • Confirm bottom board is flat and level with a level before assembly to avoid distortion.

   Watch out

   • Excess glue squeezes out and interferes with painting; apply evenly and sparingly.
   • Omitting pilot holes causes plywood to split when screwing. Always drill first.
8. 8

   Installing the Shelf Board

   ≈ 20 min

   Insert the shelf board (1164mm long) at the marked positions. Align ends with side boards, apply glue, then drill φ3.5mm pilot holes from outside of side boards and drive two 38mm coarse-thread screws per side (4 screws total). Confirm shelf board is level with a level.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 8 / 17

   Tip

   • Shelf length 1164mm equals top board width 1400mm minus two side board thicknesses (18mm×2); verify dimensions before proceeding.
   • Screw holes do not require countersinking as shelf is concealed inside.
   • For adjustable shelf supports, drill multiple φ5mm holes at this stage.

   Watch out

   • Shelf board too short causes wobble; too long causes side boards to bow outward. Double-check cut length.
   • Non-level shelf causes items and remotes to roll off; always confirm with a level.
9. 9

   Attaching the Top Board

   ≈ 25 min

   Place the top board (1200mm wide) onto the assembled box, aligning with side boards’ top edges. From top board side, drill φ3.5mm pilot holes and drive three 38mm coarse-thread screws per side (6 screws total). Screw heads should be countersunk and can be covered with wooden dowels or wood filler for a clean finish.

   Build the frame

   Tighten joints firmly

   AssembleSTEP 9 / 17

   Tip

   • The top board supports the TV; increasing screw count to four per side (8 total) enhances load capacity.
   • Cover countersinks with φ9mm wooden dowels to hide seams, which become invisible after painting.
   • If the TV is very heavy (over 30kg), consider adding a 1x2 lumber reinforcement under the top board center.

   Watch out

   • Installing top board reversed leads to inconsistent grain orientation; confirm grain direction before screwing.
   • 38mm screws are appropriately sized for 18mm thickness; longer screws may penetrate shelf board below.
10. 10

    Confirming Right Angles and Diagonal Measurements

    ≈ 15 min

    Verify the box’s overall right angles by placing a carpenter's square on all four inside corners to check for 90 degrees. Measure the two diagonal lengths (internal) with a measuring tape, ensuring they are equal within 2mm. If misaligned, loosen screws slightly, use clamps to correct, and retighten.

    Inspect

    No wobble ✓

    InspectSTEP 10 / 17

    Tip

    • Diagonal differences over 5mm indicate significant distortion; correct to avoid back panel fitting issues.
    • Clamping the entire box diagonally makes it easier to achieve right angles.
    • Enlarging pilot holes to φ4mm adds play, facilitating adjustments.

    Watch out

    • Ignoring distortion here results in large gaps during back panel installation.
    • Use accurate metal carpenter's squares (aluminum or steel), as plastic ones have large errors.
11. 11

    Attaching the Back Panel

    ≈ 15 min

    Place the 4mm veneer back panel on the rear side and fix edges and center using a stapler or slender screws (φ3×20mm). Use spacing of 30mm for staples or 100mm for screws. The back panel will mostly eliminate box distortion.

    Build the frame

    Check for square

    AssembleSTEP 11 / 17

    Tip

    • If distortion was found earlier, correct with clamps during fixing.
    • Stapler is faster to use; it drives thin needle-like pins like a large stapler.
    • Orienting wood grain horizontally on the back panel creates a neat appearance for the entire TV stand.

    Watch out

    • Ensure correct orientation of back panel as front and back differ in color and grain.
    • Check rear surface by hand to confirm staples or screws did not protrude.
12. 12

    Creating Cable Holes (If Needed)

    ≈ 15 min

    Drill wiring holes in the back panel with a φ50mm hole saw to allow TV power, HDMI, and antenna cables to pass. The hole should ideally be right behind the TV’s connection ports. Without a hole saw, drill multiple holes and connect them using a fret saw.

    Drill a hole

    φ50mm

    DrillSTEP 12 / 17

    Tip

    • Attach edge banding tape around hole edge to prevent hand injury and protect cable sheaths.
    • Determine hole position carefully by confirming TV connection terminal layout.
    • Align hole height with power outlet for a tidy appearance.

    Watch out

    • Incorrect hole placement prevents neat cable routing behind the TV; mark after temporarily placing TV.
    • Hole saw slipping drills can peel plywood surface; maintain drill bit centered.
13. 13

    Preparation Before Painting

    ≈ 15 min

    Lightly sand the entire surface with #240 sandpaper, and thoroughly remove dust with a damp cloth and a dry cloth. Remove glue overflow and burrs around screw holes. Suitable finishes for indoor use include Watco Oil, Briwax, and water-based paints.

    Sand

    #240

    SandSTEP 13 / 17

    Tip

    • Always test paint on a scrap piece; plywood absorbs differently than solid wood, affecting opacity.
    • Water-based paints can be cleaned with water; recommended for beginners.
    • Watco Oil provides a natural finish that preserves wood texture; apply by rubbing with a cloth.

    Watch out

    • Glue-covered areas repel paint; lightly sand with #240 before painting.
    • Remaining dust causes a rough finish; clean thoroughly before painting.
14. 14

    First Coat of Paint

    ≈ 30 min

    Apply paint over the entire surface with a brush or cloth. Follow the order top board, side boards, bottom board, back panel, painting large to small surfaces. Brush along the grain in one direction for minimal streaking. Apply thin and even coats. Allow at least 2 hours for natural drying.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 14 / 17

    Tip

    • Use small amounts of paint at a time; leaving paint cans open forms a skin, rendering paint unusable.
    • Switch to a flat roller brush if brush marks bother you for even coating.
    • Keep painted parts in a dust-free place and avoid strong fan airflow during drying.

    Watch out

    • Thick coats cause uneven drying and peeling later; thin two coats is standard.
    • Drying near heating vents causes surface-only drying and trapped moisture inside; allow natural drying.
15. 15

    Intermediate Sanding and Second Coat of Paint

    ≈ 25 min

    Once the first coat is fully dry, lightly sand the surface with #320 sandpaper (intermediate sanding) to remove roughness. Remove dust and apply a second thinner coat. Allow at least 24 hours drying.

    Paint

    Watco oil / varnish

    PaintSTEP 15 / 17

    Tip

    • Lightly sand only surface texture, not removing entire first coat.
    • Maintain thin second coats; thick coats drip.
    • Do not touch wet paint to avoid fingerprints and dust.

    Watch out

    • Sanding too aggressively removes first coat; light sanding with #320 is critical.
    • Thick second coats extend drying times and delay further work.
16. 16

    Attaching Leg Pads and Anti-Tip Hardware

    ≈ 20 min

    Apply felt pads to the legs to prevent floor scratches and wobble. Attach earthquake-resistant belts or anti-tip brackets at the upper back for seismic safety. The safest method fixes the desk to the wall studs with screws.

    Fix to the wall

    Anchor to studs

    InstallSTEP 16 / 17

    Tip

    • Felt pads cost around 50 yen at home centers; 10mm thickness absorbs floor unevenness.
    • Earthquake belts are available in 100-yen shops; specialized TV stands cost around 1000 yen and offer greater security.
    • When fixing to the wall, align with wall studs as drywall alone cannot bear load.

    Watch out

    • Omitting felt pads causes floor damage from friction.
    • Omitting anti-tip devices risks TV stand toppling during major earthquakes, damaging the TV.
17. 17

    Final Check and Installation

    ≈ 20 min

    Move the completed TV stand to the installation location and check front-to-back and side levels with a level. Adjust wobble with felt pads as needed. Place the TV, route cables, and test power and operation. Use only light items the first day, and wait about one week until paint fully cures before heavy use.

    Done!

    Done — nice work!

    DoneSTEP 17 / 17

    Tip

    • Place the TV evenly centered on the top board to distribute weight uniformly; avoid off-center placement to prevent distortion.
    • Route cables through back panel holes and use cable ties for neater appearance.
    • If placing AV amplifiers or Blu-ray recorders, leave at least 50mm front and back ventilation space.

    Watch out

    • Paint takes one week to fully cure; placing remotes or devices directly on paint too early causes stickiness.
    • Floor inclination may prevent level setup; adjust felt pad thickness differently on left and right sides to compensate.

Warnings

• ⚠️Drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.

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