Kids' furniture
Kids Bed Frame
DIY blueprint for Kids Bed Frame.
Dimensions
Width (W)
2000mm
Depth (D)
900mm
Height (H)
800mm
Cut list
Tools you'll need
- ✓
Tape measure (5m or longer)
Used for measuring each component.
- ✓
Pencil and carpenter's square
For marking and checking right angles.
- ✓
Saw
Using a home center's cutting service is recommended.
- ✓
Electric driver
Using an impact driver improves work efficiency.
- ✓
Sandpaper
Prepare #120 and #240 grits.
- ✓
Level
Essential for checking levelness during assembly.
- ✓
Clamps (2 or more)
Used for temporary fixing during joining.
- ✓
Brush and paint tray
Used for oil or varnish finishing.
Materials
Build steps
- 1
Measure and confirm installation environment
≈ 15 minMeasure the installation space for the children's bed frame (2000×900×800mm). Confirm sufficient space behind and in front for sitting with the chair pulled out (chair depth + 400mm or more), and check the flow for dish serving.
MeasureW 2000 mmMeasureSTEP 1 / 12Tip
- For typical dining styles, allocate approximately 600mm width × 400mm depth per person.
- A table height of 720mm assumes a standard dining chair seat height (420mm) plus 300mm clearance.
- Maintain at least 800mm distance from the wall to allow chair pulling out.
Watch out
- A 1200×700mm top board is standard for four people, but can be cramped for families with many large dishes.
- Omitting chair backrest thickness in measurement can result in an arrangement where movement in and out is blocked.
- 2
Create component cutting list and order from home center
≈ 40 minPrepare 2×6 lumber for the top board (38×140×2000mm) × 2 pieces, 2×4 lumber for legs (38×89×762mm) × 4 pieces, long side apron boards (38×89×2000mm) × 2 pieces, and short side apron boards (38×89×2000mm) × 2 pieces. Prepare 75mm coarse-thread screws × 60 pieces. Use the home center's paid cutting service for convenience.
CutUse the in-store cut serviceCutSTEP 2 / 12Tip
- 2×6 lumber actual size is 38×140mm; their nominal size differs, so be cautious.
- Nine top board pieces side by side measure 140×9=1260mm. Even with 3mm gaps between each, total width is 1260 + 24 = 1284mm.
- The effective width of the top board is 9 pieces × 140mm plus 8 gaps × 3mm = 1284mm. This exceeds 2000mm in width, requiring adjustment in number or width of boards.
Watch out
- Selecting warped or twisted 2×6 lumber leads to a wavy top board. Inspect each piece visually when purchasing.
- Specify actual measure for legs at 682mm = height 800 minus top board thickness 38mm to prevent cutting errors.
- 3
Sand all components
≈ 50 minSand using #120 → #180 → #240 sandpaper sequentially. Sand the 2×6 lumber top boards especially carefully. For better stain resistance during meals, repeat wiping with a damp cloth to raise grain, allow complete drying, then finish with #240 grit.
Sand#120 → #180 → #240SandSTEP 3 / 12Tip
- No splinters are allowed on dining surfaces; confirm smoothness with finger pad.
- The 'water raising' process (wet wiping, drying, then sanding) reduces fuzz after use.
- Using an orbital sander can save time; consider rental services.
Watch out
- Omitting chamfering edges causes clothes or skin to catch, especially at children's face level.
- Sanding produces large amounts of dust; work in ventilated areas such as balconies or garages.
- 4
Temporary assembly of legs and apron boards (frame construction)
≈ 45 minAttach the apron boards 50mm down from the top ends of the four legs. Install apron boards on the outer side of the legs, driving two 75mm coarse-thread screws at each joint. Confirm all four corners are right angles with a carpenter's square once the rectangular frame is assembled.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 4 / 12Tip
- Exterior attachment of apron boards looks better and is stronger, but interior attachment provides stronger contact with the top board.
- Drill φ5mm pilot holes in apron board side before screwing to prevent splitting the legs.
- Right angles at joint corners directly affect top board fit.
Watch out
- Driving 75mm screws without pilot holes easily splits 2×4 lumber.
- Assembling legs without consistent orientation of knots and wood grain results in a mismatched appearance.
- 5
Check frame squareness and diagonal lengths
≈ 15 minPlace the assembled frame on a flat floor and check that all four legs make contact (no wobble). Measure the two diagonal lengths of the inner frame with a tape measure; the discrepancy must be within 2mm. If out of tolerance, loosen screws, correct the frame with clamps in the diagonal direction, then retighten.
InspectNo wobble ✓InspectSTEP 5 / 12Tip
- Uneven flooring affects measurement; use a level surface.
- If diagonal difference exceeds 5mm, the top board will sit crooked; keep within 2mm.
- Wobble means one leg is lifted; adjust until all legs contact floor.
Watch out
- Moving on with a distorted frame causes gaps or lifted edges in the top board.
- Ensure the carpenter's square is accurate; cheap ones may deviate more than 0.5°.
- 6
Assemble top board
≈ 40 minArrange nine 2×6 lumber boards for the top table on a workbench, aligning wood grain direction. Insert 3mm thick chopsticks as spacers between boards for breathing space. Attach two 2×4 lumber reinforcing battens on the underside with wood glue and 45mm coarse-thread screws to unify the top board structure.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 6 / 12Tip
- Alternate the direction of wood grain (heartwood orientation) on adjacent boards to counteract warping and cracking.
- Place battens 200mm inward from top board edges to improve appearance.
- Confirm 45mm screws are shorter than 38mm thickness to avoid protrusion.
Watch out
- Tight joints without gaps cause swelling and warping from moisture. Maintain 3mm breathing gaps.
- Diagonal misalignment of battens causes overall top board warping; check right angles with carpenter's square.
- 7
Attach top board to frame
≈ 30 minPlace the top board on the frame, confirming balanced overhangs of about 30mm on all sides. Drill φ5mm pilot holes from apron boards into the underside of the top board and drive 75mm coarse-thread screws. Fix with 4 screws from each long apron board and 2 screws from each short apron board, totaling 12 screws.
Build the frameTighten joints firmlyAssembleSTEP 7 / 12Tip
- Overhangs of 30-50mm do not interfere with dining action.
- Drive screws toward the inner side of apron boards rather than the center to reduce splitting.
- Screw length should not exceed apron board thickness plus 20mm to avoid penetrating top board.
Watch out
- Driving 75mm screws without pilot holes and countersinking may push screw heads through top board surface.
- Overhangs exceeding 50mm lead to top board sagging; about 30mm is ideal.
- 8
Prepare surface for finishing
≈ 20 minLightly sand entire assembly with #240 sandpaper again and remove dust with a damp cloth prior to finishing. For indoor use, apply water-based urethane varnish, Watco Oil, or Briwax. Use coatings labeled compliant with Food Sanitation Law for surfaces in contact with food for safety.
Sand#240SandSTEP 8 / 12Tip
- Water-based urethane varnish (matte or semi-gloss) offers strong water and heat resistance for dining surfaces.
- Watco Oil preserves wood texture with a soft finish.
- Always test paint on scrap wood to confirm color before main application.
Watch out
- Glue residues repel coatings; sand off with #240 grit first.
- Unremoved dust causes a rough finish; clean thoroughly.
- 9
First coat of finish
≈ 40 minApply finish with a brush over entire surface in the order: top board → apron boards → legs → underside, brushing along wood grain in one direction to avoid streaks. For water-based urethane varnish, dry about 3 hours; for Watco Oil, allow 15-20 minutes absorption then wipe off excess and dry 2 hours.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 9 / 12Tip
- Two thin coats of urethane are recommended; thick coats cause bubbles and shrinking.
- Always wipe off excess Watco Oil; leftover causes stickiness after drying.
- Dry in a dust-free environment.
Watch out
- Applying thick, viscous varnish causes dripping and uneven drying.
- Drying under direct warm airflow hardens surface but leaves internal areas semi-dry; natural drying is preferred.
- 10
Intermediate sanding and second coat
≈ 40 minAfter first coat is completely dry, lightly sand surface with very fine #400 sandpaper to smooth out fuzz (intermediate sanding). Remove dust and apply the second coat thinner than the first. For three coats to thicken film for dining use, repeat intermediate sanding again.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 10 / 12Tip
- Use light touch when sanding intermediate coats to only smooth fuzz.
- Two coats greatly improve water resistance and abrasion properties, essential for dining tables.
- Three coats result in a hard and glossy professional finish.
Watch out
- Excessive sanding removes the first coat completely.
- Touching the surface before fully dry causes fingerprints and dust adhesion; follow 24-hour dry time strictly.
- 11
Allow finish to fully cure
≈ 10 minAfter finishing, wait at least 72 hours before placing heavy objects to allow full curing. Water-based urethane varnish cures fully after one week. Avoid using the table for eating or working during this period, and cover lightly with cloth to prevent dust accumulation.
PaintWatco oil / varnishPaintSTEP 11 / 12Tip
- Curing time varies by finish type; strictly follow can instructions.
- Check curing by pressing lightly with fingernail; no indent marks indicate readiness.
- Drying time depends on temperature: 3-4 days in summer, over one week in winter.
Watch out
- Placing hot pots on uncured finish causes melting and permanent marks.
- Dropping dishes can chip uncured finish; exercise caution until fully cured.
- 12
Attach leg pads and perform final checks
≈ 20 minAttach felt pads to all four leg bottoms to protect floor from scratches. Move the table to its placement and check level with a level tool. Adjust pad thickness if wobble occurs. Pull in chairs and sit to verify knees do not hit apron boards.
Done!Done — nice work!DoneSTEP 12 / 12Tip
- 10mm thick felt pads absorb unevenness in flooring.
- Use felt pads for hard floors (wood flooring) and rubber pads for tatami mats.
- If wobble remains, adjust one pad with thinner thickness.
Watch out
- Using the table without pads risks floor damage due to table weight.
- Improper seat height difference (270-300mm clearance) causes poor posture while dining.
Warnings
- ⚠️Please drill pilot holes before driving screws to prevent wood splitting.
Custom design
Changing the dimensions roughly scales the cut list. Get the precise calculation in the app.
Enter dimensions (mm)
Quick estimateWidth W
Depth D
Height H
Base size 2000×900×800 mm
Cut list (preview)
Total board length ≈ 11 m · Available at: カインズ / コメリ / コーナン / DCM
Accurate materials, prices, and cuts in the app
Per-retailer pricing, purchase links, and optimal cut layouts are auto-calculated in the app.
Examples24 examples
View all →Actual cost
¥11,452
Build time
6 h 22 min
Home center
DCM
週末を使って子供用ベッドフレームを作りました。マンション住まいなので搬入できる寸法を最優先。天板を成長に合わせてダボ穴 3 段階で高さ調整可能にしました。費用対効果も高くて満足です。
Actual cost
¥14,413
Build time
5 h
Home center
カインズ
今回は子供用ベッドフレームにトライ。今回もSPFが主役。1本300円台で揃うのがありがたい。角は全て R 面取り、塗料は食品衛生法適合のミルクペイント。子供が触っても安全なように角は全部丸めてます。結果には満足してます。
Actual cost
¥16,302
Build time
5 h 16 min
Home center
DCM
今回は子供用ベッドフレームにトライ。マンション住まいなので搬入できる寸法を最優先。角は全て R 面取り、塗料は食品衛生法適合のミルクペイント。この作品で DIY のモチベがまた上がりました。
Actual cost
¥9,330
Build time
4 h 11 min
Home center
カインズ
気になっていた子供用ベッドフレームにようやく挑戦。マンション住まいなので搬入できる寸法を最優先。扉は指挟み防止のソフトクローズ蝶番を使ってます。塗料は食品衛生法適合品。子供がなめても大丈夫なものに統一。ホームセンター店員さんに相談しながら進めたのが良かった。
Actual cost
¥20,068
Build time
7 h 29 min
Home center
ロイヤルホームセンター
週末を使って子供用ベッドフレームを作りました。今回もSPFが主役。1本300円台で揃うのがありがたい。扉は指挟み防止のソフトクローズ蝶番を使ってます。家族にも好評で作って良かった。
Actual cost
¥11,770
Build time
6 h 37 min
Home center
DCM
週末を使って子供用ベッドフレームを作りました。今回もSPFが主役。1本300円台で揃うのがありがたい。天板を成長に合わせてダボ穴 3 段階で高さ調整可能にしました。この作品で DIY のモチベがまた上がりました。
Ratings
Comments2
- Yuya DIY2026/04/26

脚はちょっと太めにすると、子供がはしゃいでも安定感あります
- Akira_handmade2026/04/26

面取りはとくに念入りに。子供の手に優しい仕上がりになります
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